Transmission Mystery

RGG

RGG

Junior Member
I need some advice. I have a stock 1930 Model A Coupe with the only modifications being running 40 Ford wheels. One day after leaving a stop sign it started jerking and had a horrible loud knocking noise coming from the transmission. After pulling over I discovered that I could go in second gear without the noise. Fortunately, I was close to the house and was able to nurse it home. I decided that I had broke first gear in the transmission.

Well, I just happened to have another transmission in my basement so I pulled the motor and trans and swapped it out. When I examined the trans it did not actually look bad but I went ahead and swapped it out. After all this work I took her out for a test drive and the same noise and jerking was there. I was not happy to say the least.

So this time, I pulled the rearend and tourqe tube out. The end of the driveshaft showed damage at the end of the shaft, but it was only for the first quarter of an inch. I noticed that the u-joint bolt was loose and decided that was the culprit! So I thightened it up and went ahead and replaced the upper driveshaft bearing. After putting everything back together I backed out if the driveway and then put it in first gear. Same problem!!! I was furious but tried to ease her back in the garage with it making a racket. I got it in but this time I had another surprise, a trail of trans dope and a piece of cast iron. It blew out a piece of the transmission case at the drain plug.

I am at a lost and would appreciate any advice...

Thanks.

RGG
 
I would hire a ****** expert. Better than guessing
Had anyone worked on the ****** recently?
FW housing out of alignment can trigger this
off center crank babbit can do it,
anything that can strain the connection between motor and ******
roller brgs in ****** prolly shot
who worked on the ****** and left the u-joint bolt loose?
gears from argentina?
forks messed up and going into 2 gears at once?
really hard to blow the case
need total overhaul
 
Sounds like a tooth loose in the trans, If it blew a hole in case then problem is in the trans . Or we need more history on box. rear end etc , Been fine up till now or what ? How close did you inspect each trans , Looked or had apart ?? Same top ?? Selector fork located correct. ??
 
RGG,
Confirm same problem on two different gearboxes. Did you use the same top cover and shifter on both?
Regards
Chris
 
What shape was the flywheel cover in? Since you will be pulling the ****** anyway, check it for cracks and flatness where the ****** bolts up. Look at you motor mounts while you are at it. I had an odd sound that seemed like just the tips of the gears were engaging in low but it would pull fine in second. Had the cover off and everything looked okay. Greased the throwout bearing holder so it slid in and out freely and that solved the problem.
 
It is frustrating when parts are changed before the trouble is acertaind beforehand. Go back to the first transmission and check the bearings and gears thoroughly, check the tower and flywheel runout while it is out. Make sure the pilot bearing is ok also. Find your problem before going for the next drive.
 
quickchange said:
Sounds like a tooth loose in the trans, If it blew a hole in case then problem is in the trans . Or we need more history on box. rear end etc , Been fine up till now or what ? How close did you inspect each trans , Looked or had apart ?? Same top ?? Selector fork located correct. ??
Click to expand...

I should have inspected the first trans more carefully. I looked at the second trans and the inside looked really good. Clean oil no broken teeth. I did not reuse my original shifter as I thought it would be best to use the one that was originally on the second trans.

I am thinking that maybe it's the ujoint? Could excessive slack with it allow the main shaft to move under load to cause the gears to hit the case?

Thanks for the help!

RGG
 
Floats said:
RGG,
Confirm same problem on two different gearboxes. Did you use the same top cover and shifter on both?
Regards
Chris
Click to expand...

Chris, I use the top cover and shifter that was on the second trans.

Thanks.

RGG
 
daveymc29 said:
What shape was the flywheel cover in? Since you will be pulling the ****** anyway, check it for cracks and flatness where the ****** bolts up. Look at you motor mounts while you are at it. I had an odd sound that seemed like just the tips of the gears were engaging in low but it would pull fine in second. Had the cover off and everything looked okay. Greased the throwout bearing holder so it slid in and out freely and that solved the problem.
Click to expand...

I will reinspect this when I pull the trans and rearend back out.

Thanks.

RGG
 
J Franklin said:
It is frustrating when parts are changed before the trouble is acertaind beforehand. Go back to the first transmission and check the bearings and gears thoroughly, check the tower and flywheel runout while it is out. Make sure the pilot bearing is ok also. Find your problem before going for the next drive.
Click to expand...

I agree, my quickness to decide what was wrong has caused me great pain. Old cars can teach us valuable lessons about having patience!

It has a new pilot bearing, but what do you mean by flywheel run-out? I apologise if this is something simple that I should know.

Thanks.

RGG
 
Well, after searching all of the posts u now know how to check for flywheel run-out.

It also appears that I am the only one who has busted a transmission case! Not the prize I wanted to win!

Thanks.

RGG
 
Hang in there and don't get discouraged. We've all been there, even if only some of us will admit it.
Bet you will double check everything before putting it back together. I pulled a ****** in my truck three times before getting it sorted out.
Keep us posted and "Enjoy the adventure". Chap
 
Ok, found a broken gear tooth in the driveway. I am thinking that the ujoint allowed the shaft to move enough shear the tooth and then the tooth wedged between the gear and the bottom of the case.

I am going to order a new ujoint from synders and may go ahead and replace the rear end and torque tube with another one that I have. I told my wife all of the extra old parts I have would be useful one day!

Thanks.

RGG
 

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Don’t bother trying to weld, braze, or otherwise repair that busted case. Good ones can be had for $10-20 bucks. A welder is bound to charge vastly more than that. ****** cases are a common item. Contact Bert’s in Denver for a replacement.
 
I second BERT'S. Not only good quality used parts but great advice. I had a cracked axle, noisy ******, bad rear spring. Thank's to Steve it is back together and all replacement parts great. DO take your time and clean everything while apart. If in doubt ask an expert to check it out before continuing. If you have a local club - JOIN IT!! Wealth of experience and advice. I know first hand!!!
 
I do this stuff for a living,I cant tell you how many comebacks I've had or have seen because of one fatal flaw.No matter what you are repairing you have to find the root cause of the failure.You have to finger the culprit to solve the crime.

Baring that simple reasoning we are all guilty of not following you are doomed.
 
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