48-52 f2 bed diagram

[FirstGenF2]

I am having trouble finding a diagram for how they are constructed or mount to the frame, does anyone have pictures of one disassembled or mid rebuild mounting etc. Any referance images are helpful.

 

[FirstGenF2]

Ok so i went through my "Archive" of referance pics and found two pics i saved of beds, which one is mounted properly or are they both mounted improperly and if so what is the correct way.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

If you want to go stock and use wood cross members, Bruce Horkey has kits and information on his website.

I made steel cross members and took a ton of pics if you are interested.

Google 48-52 Express Bed or Express Box and you will find diagrams and pics.

 

[flatheadmurre]

Bought a F2 bedwood kit from Bruce last year...great product and person to deal with.
http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/

 

[FirstGenF2]

If you want to go stock and use wood cross members, Bruce Horkey has kits and information on his website.

I made steel cross members and took a ton of pics if you are interested.

Google 48-52 Express Bed or Express Box and you will find diagrams and pics.

Can you send me a link of the pictures or email them to me? i found a forum post of you describing the process of making them but cant find the pics online.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Not sure if this helps.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Some pics of what I did.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Here's some more pics.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I think this is it. Hope it helps.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I'm in dry AZ. so didn't want to spend a bunch on wood only to have it dry rot.

Previous owner had added a couple cross members and the number of planks was not correct. This is how I bought it. Was actually on a 1948 F2. Same bed from 48-52.

 

[FirstGenF2]

ok, this is exactly what I needed, I will definitely follow these to make some from steel, would aluminum work?

 

[FirstGenF2]

by the way what coating did you use on the frame? and why the dana 60?

 

[Mart]

I wouldn't use aluminium, you will have all sorts of dissimilar metal corrosion problems. The job shown above certainly makes for a good solid bed. It could be a lot lighter than that and still be adequate. But as they say, nothing ever failed from being over-engineered.

Mart.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

The wood cross members are 2 1/2" tall x 1 1/2" wide. The only steel I could find that was 2 1/2" was the .120 wall. Over kill but, my only option. I have hauled a lot of decorative rock and a few times the scale showed 1.8 tons! So maybe good that it's over kill. Recently I saw some with thinner wall so maybe see what you can find locally.

I painted the frame with Valspar tractor and implement paint with a brush. I was going to spray it and use the hardener but, changed my mind. The hardener is pretty hazardous and I was using my garage. I like the way it looks....vintage. I'm not building a show truck.

I went with a Dana 60 because the stock gears in the Timken are 4.86's. The stock tires were 34" tall on 17" widow maker wheels. I now have 3.73 gears and 32" tall tires on the 16" innie wheels I took from the 48 F2 I got the bed from. I also got the rear shock mounts. Worked out perfect for me, I can take off in 2nd and hit 70ish according to my GPS. And thats just with the stock and VERY tired Flathead. I haven't corrected my speedo yet. I use 1st on steep hills or with 1.8 tons of rock in the bed.

Good luck with your build!

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I think aluminum might be OK. The cross members sit on pads. The pads just look like canvas webbing used on rifle slings or gym bag handles soaked in a waxy substance.

A good coat of paint and it may be fine. Your call.

Steel at the time I did mine was pretty affordable, under $200 for all this. Aluminum was not, and it's even higher now. The wood kit from Bruce Horkey is NICE but, way more than I spent on the steel. Wood just doesn't do well in the desert climate. I'm using the truck as a truck.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

By the way, I used 3/4" plywood for the bed wood and painted it with the same paint I used on the frame.

I did this so I could use the truck as I went through rebuilding and repairing everything. I need to rebuild the engine, then tear it all down for body and paint. Not going crazy on it as I'm going to drive the wheels off it.

Thinking of using Ipe for the bed wood. IF I can get some at a decent price. I don't want to have to refinish my bed wood every couple years. Supposed to just need an oil finish. I can throw a bed mat over it if I haul a load that will tear it up.

Any recommendations from a wood expert out there?

 

[38bill]

Nice job Scotty! I like your idea of using a oil finish. You will have to keep reapplying it as it weathers but that's a lot easier than refinishing.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Thanks! That was my hope once I do get nice wood in the bed. I had Teak on my boat and a little oil once in a while is a LOT easier than disassemble, sand and refinish.

I think all the Birds Eye Maple and such beds in the show trucks are absolutely gorgeous but, mine will be put to work.

If I ever get back to working on my truck I'll be sure to post pics. Right now my truck is a driver and I have too many other priorities to get to.

 

[FirstGenF2]

To be honest, I don't plan to use my truck for extreme hauling, but I do need to be able to haul construction supplies, and sheets of plywood. I figure steel should be fine so long as I paint it well and properly protect the frame. this thread has got the gears turning in how to fix up the frame.