Brake Lever Angle on Rear

Ideally, the rear levers should be back from vertical.


It is very hard to correct the rear lever angle once everything is assembled, however, if everything is at spec, the levers will be toward the rear from vertical.
If components such as the drums, linings, cams rollers, etc are worn, the levers will be further forward and sometimes you have to shorten the brake rods just to get an adjustment. This I do not like to do. I would rather fix the rear brake assemblies so the levers are where they should be.


If using oversize drums, be sure to also use extra thick linings and then arc them so the final thickness of the linings take into consideration the larger diameter of the oversize drums.


Just my opinion.


Chris W.
 
If using oversize drums, be sure to also use extra thick linings and then arc them so the final thickness of the linings take into consideration the larger diameter of the oversize drums.

Those reading this remember there are two thicknesses of linings sold. The thick to take up the room with drums that have been resurfaced a few times like the post above and thinner ones for the new or near new.

We have read here many times about drums that will not fit after relining due to the unknown purchase of the thicker linings.
 
I have often heard 15 degrees on the front brake levers but never heard any angle on the back.
Is there one?

I would think that the rears should have the same 15 degree angle.

Just like on front brakes once you go past the vertical you lose the mechanical advantage and start to pull down on lever instead of forward.

But I have never heard it mentioned either.

Maybe it is not mentioned because it seldom changes on rear brakes or maybe no one ever thought about it.

As mentioned above maybe an easy method (similar to the Pills on front) to correct the angle has not been found.

About thickness of linings ... Ford engineers said to ALWAYS replace drums, NEVER turn them so they would not have been concerned about it.

I read somewhere that the reason for NOT turning drums was that they were surface hardened on inside drum wear surface and turning them removed the hardened surface.

Maybe this was in service bulletins. edit: Yes Page 514 last paragraph under heading "important".

quote:
"drums have a rolled braking surface to lessen any possibility of scoring" ...it is essential that this surface not be touched with any machining tool

50 years ago when cast iron Repro drums did not exist we turned many drums ... no other choice.
 
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About thickness of linings ... Ford engineers said to ALWAYS replace drums, NEVER turn them so they would not have been concerned about it.

I read somewhere that the reason for NOT turning drums was that they were surface hardened on inside drum wear surface and turning them removed the hardened surface.

Maybe this was in service bulletins. edit: Yes Page 514 last paragraph under heading "important".

quote:
"drums have a rolled braking surface to lessen any possibility of scoring" ...it is essential that this surface not be touched with any machining tool

50 years ago when cast iron Repro drums did not exist we turned many drums ... no other choice.




Today, a lot of Model A owners are using replacement cast Iron drums. These, as well as the late '31 original cast iron drums can be turned to .060 without a problem. At .060 oversize you will need the thicker linings to have everything where it needs to be for all the adjustments and angle of the levers to be correct.


I only turn original stamped steel drums no more than about .030 max. standard thickness lining will work up .030.


Original thickness linings that are arced for .060 oversized drums will result in the rear brake levers being further forward than if everything was as originally manufactured with standard size drums.


Chris W.
 
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Here is a picture of my rear service brake arm. This is set as described in Les Andrews Service Brake adjustment section, with the slack taken up but no movement in the shoes.. New cam, pins, rollers, along with Randy Gross drums and shoes.
 

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Well, I’ve just finished putting my rear brakes back on and was just getting excited to reattach the rods.... and only see the angle of my actuating arm seems to be much too wide (forward). Is there any way to fix this without taking everything apart again?

At least I'm sure learning a lot with all the mistakes I keep making :rolleyes:
 

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