'55 T-Bird slow warm up

G

Grumpy Rick

Senior Member
My '55 T-Bird takes forever to warm up. I just replaced the thermostat because I figured it must be missing, since it takes so long.

Turns out it had a 160 degree already in it, which I replaced with the recommended NAPA unit which is 170. Drove about 4 miles before my aftermarket temp gage started to move.

Am I Just spoiled from driving newer cars? My 06 Jeep Wrangler would be at operating temp after one mile easy.

It is a fairly stock 292 with some more modern touches, carb, ignition,etc. It doesn't start to overheat unless it is 100, in stop and go traffic.

Thank you, Someday I will get all the bugs out.
 
Sounds normal to me. Y-blocks are notoriously cold hearted. Modern cars heat up much quicker for emissions reasons; the system goes into open loop quickly to allow the ECM to lean the injectors. None of this was a consideration when our cars were built. Modern vehicles also tend to have aluminum blocks and/or heads, another reason they heat quicker than a huge lump of cold cast iron. You can block off part of the radiator with an appropriately sized piece of cardboard to warm it faster, just don't forget to remove it when the engine reaches operating temperature.
 
"Am I Just spoiled from driving newer cars? "


Yes, new cars and trucks are designed for better heater and A/C performance, due to the ever spoiled customers and competition.


Sal
 
Grumpy Rick said:
My '55 T-Bird takes forever to warm up. I just replaced the thermostat because I figured it must be missing, since it takes so long.

Turns out it had a 160 degree already in it, which I replaced with the recommended NAPA unit which is 170. Drove about 4 miles before my aftermarket temp gage started to move.
Click to expand...

No good reason for it...

Do you mean you have poor heater output in colder weather? You need a 180 thermostat.

TECH ARTICLE HERE- https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/Thermostats2.php

Now if the thermostat causes overheating in the summer, you merely change it back to 160 in the spring. That was how it was done on the old days.

Also remember, the engine needs to operate at a certain minimum temp for the oil to work correctly, especially if road draft equipped.
 
The other thing I’ve found on my bird is the heater valve really doesn’t close completely. So even in warm weather, with it off, you’re running the heater too. And if the seals are leaking on the air pick up (which they do), you’ve got some heat going into the interior too.
 
miker98038 said:
The other thing I’ve found on my bird is the heater valve really doesn’t close completely. So even in warm weather, with it off, you’re running the heater too. And if the seals are leaking on the air pick up (which they do), you’ve got some heat going into the interior too.
Click to expand...
If this is happening there are manual in-line valves available to insert into a heater hose to stop water flow thru the heater core.
 
Heater? Where I live, I hardly use the heater on my newer cars. It was about 60-65 on the day in question. The top is not on either. I cannot stand driving it with the top on. Struggle to get in, then I can't see out. Don't mean to come off sounding like a wise ***, just clarifying. If I had to leave the top on, the car would be gone.

I have to go look to see if the heater hoses are even on the car. I don't think so. If they are I will look into mikers suggestion.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Leaving tomorrow for my Grandaughter's wedding Saturday on the beach at Camp Pendleton. Won't be able to check it for a while.
 
Grumpy Rick said:
The top is not on either. I cannot stand driving it with the top on. Struggle to get in, then I can't see out. Don't mean to come off sounding like a wise ***, just clarifying. If I had to leave the top on, the car would be gone.
Click to expand...

One of the reasons I got rid of mine (1970), overheating, fricasseed butt and hard to get in and out of.

Had a 67 GT-500. Same thing, hard to get in and out.

Now the things are worth a fortune... :eek:

If the heater is not a concern, most likely lazy thermostat and/or the WP bypass needs to be restricted.
 
dmsfrr said:
If this is happening there are manual in-line valves available to insert into a heater hose to stop water flow thru the heater core.
Click to expand...

GOOD SOLUTION!

It seems quality valves are not being produced any longer and the ones still available are low quality off-shore. NOS is questionable.

I stumbled across this while browsing through their catalog. I always hated the appearance of the valve as it made the car look old tech to me. I guess the dedicated could re-insert the valve if showing the car.

http://www.classictbird.com/Manual-Heater-Control-Kit/productinfo/18495MK/

Where the hoses go on the heater core is not a big deal. But flowing from bottom to the top may help expel air bubbles in the core.

The reason for our directions saying put the manual valve in the "heater core to pump" hose is because that valve is directional - it may leak flow in one direction but seals flow in the other direction
Click to expand...

Also, the coolant flowing as described allows the coolant to remain a little longer in the heater core (slower flow) allowing more heat extraction from the core.
 
Grumpy Rick said:
My '55 T-Bird takes forever to warm up. I just replaced the thermostat because I figured it must be missing, since it takes so long.

Turns out it had a 160 degree already in it, which I replaced with the recommended NAPA unit which is 170. Drove about 4 miles before my aftermarket temp gage started to move.

Am I Just spoiled from driving newer cars? My 06 Jeep Wrangler would be at operating temp after one mile easy.

It is a fairly stock 292 with some more modern touches, carb, ignition,etc. It doesn't start to overheat unless it is 100, in stop and go traffic.

Thank you, Someday I will get all the bugs out.
Click to expand...

Too low or defective pressure cap or Too high of mixture of antifreeze can cause it.
 
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