Rear Panhard Bar ?

Y-Blockhead said:
Can't see it? I see it... I can even see it in your post.:p:p If you can't see it go to my picture album.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3320

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=3320&pictureid=39757



Hardtimes, that drawing is Bass Ackwards. The Panhard bar available form the vendors mounts to the LR shock mount and the center section of the rear axle.
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Thanks for explaining the 'bassackwards' thingy !
Nice clear pictures too. Thanks for sharing.
Now , my question is...is there any welding/fabbing to do or have 'they done that...and it's a bolt in job ?
 
pooch said:
Dunno about the aftermarket Model A panhard bars, but as to a general bar, the longer the betterr so to minimise arc length change movement.

And the bar should be up hill to chassis a bit ( in height elevation) at normal riding height loaded, so its working life going over bumps is in the best arc.
Click to expand...
Ok , but I suppose that the aftermarket bar available is made to length that is dictated by model a construction ? Otherwise, how and where would you fasten a longer bar ?
 
SSsssteamer said:
I followed this Panhard post from the beginning. Having driven our 1929 Tudor for 50 years, at 45+ mph on the country roads, the Tudor can be a real challenge to keep it on our side of the road. It always dips and dives all over the place. It has all new spring shackles, shock absorbers and the tudor is in great shape. I ordered the Panhard from Snyders (on line) on Sunday and I received it on Wednesday by USPS. Cost plus shipping came to about $150. It took about 30 minutes to install and then I test drove our Tudor. I just got back from driving on the same country roads. The Tudor showed about a 90% improvement on the dipping and diving. Body roll was greatly reduced too. It was money well spent.
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A good practical application testimonial...thanks for sharing this info !
 
Hardtimes,
The longer the bar the better, but the diff pumpkin gets in the way. Go back up to the sketch and see a longer bar sits at an angle in order to clear the diff.
As I see it, the longer the better, the bar should go from the chassis frame, all the way as far as possible and as close to the opposite wheel.
It should be as level and perpendicular to the frame and parallel to the axle.
However, this is not always possible and the Model A is not a racing car, and therefor a ‘half’ panhard will work just fine.
You could off course go for a full bar with a kink to clear the diff.
Regards
Chris
 
hardtimes said:
Now , my question is...is there any welding/fabbing to do or have 'they done that...and it's a bolt in job ?
Click to expand...

It is all bolt in. It bolts to the center section of the rear axle and uses the same holes that bolt on the LR Shock. There is a hole already in the frame for the third bolt.
 
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hardtimes said:
Ok , but I suppose that the aftermarket bar available is made to length that is dictated by model a construction ? Otherwise, how and where would you fasten a longer bar ?
Click to expand...

The bar shown to a Model Purist/restorer who only wishes to improve his old jalopy a bit and be reversible is quite OK.

A panhard bar does not control roll, but to a Model A driver, when one is fitted, and the body does not feel like it will tip over as it wallows on every corner , he thinks it does, so this is fine .

Go the hotrodders here ........

The ideal place for a panhard bar would be from the chassis right across to the other side brake backing plate at a slight uphill angle to the chassis anchor.
 
People seem to be obsessed with the difference between body "roll" and "wallow". If it makes the car drive better for someone what difference does it make?

David Serrano
 
California Travieso said:
People seem to be obsessed with the difference between body "roll" and "wallow". If it makes the car drive better for someone what difference does it make?

David Serrano
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Can't speak for anyone else but it is because I'm anal-retentive... :rolleyes::rolleyes: My Household CEO is always asking me "Why are you so ANAL about everything?" :p:p
 
A sway or anti roll bar looks like this:

887614108411262.jpg



https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/how_it_works_suspension
 
I care about what actually works . I can speak for what works for me . I really don't care what anybody else thinks or does !!!
 
On Sunday we put the Panhard bar to the real test. With our 1929 Model A Tudor, we went on a Valentines Skagit Old Car Club tour that also had a breakfast included in the stops. With the recently installed Panhard Bar, I went around several round-abouts racing as fast as I dare and there was NO BODY ROLL while turning to the left. The round-abouts are well crowned for drainage and usually our Tudor had severe body roll on them. Body roll on round-abouts? Not any more. Oh, yes, we had snow when we first left our home. The main roads were clear though. Now I have to find a round-about that turns to the right.
 

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SSsssteamer said:
On Sunday we put the Panhard bar to the real test. With our 1929 Model A Tudor, we went on a Valentines Skagit Old Car Club tour that also had a breakfast included in the stops. With the recently installed Panhard Bar, I went around several round-abouts racing as fast as I dare and there was NO BODY ROLL while turning to the left. The round-abouts are well crowned for drainage and usually our Tudor had severe body roll on them. Body roll on round-abouts? Not any more. Oh, yes, we had snow when we first left our home. The main roads were clear though. Now I have to find a round-about that turns to the right.
Click to expand...

Ssssssteamer,

That's great that you experimented with it for yourself.

With respect to "roundabouts that turn right" I believe you will have to go to England or Down Under for that! Maybe Japan, I think they drive on the wrong side of the road too.

David Serrano
 
SSsssteamer said:
On Sunday we put the Panhard bar to the real test. With our 1929 Model A Tudor, we went on a Valentines Skagit Old Car Club tour that also had a breakfast included in the stops. With the recently installed Panhard Bar, I went around several round-abouts racing as fast as I dare and there was NO BODY ROLL while turning to the left. The round-abouts are well crowned for drainage and usually our Tudor had severe body roll on them. Body roll on round-abouts? Not any more. Oh, yes, we had snow when we first left our home. The main roads were clear though. Now I have to find a round-about that turns to the right.
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Beautiful picture ! Post card perfect, thanks for sharing !
 
I'm wondering if it would be possible to put a Panhard Bar from a bracket mounted to one side of the rear axle using the bolts at the brake backing plate, past the back of the diff and to a bracket on the back of the chassis. That would be better than the 1/2 length bar shown if it is possible. The brackets would have to be long enough to clear the diff and the longer they are, the weaker they are.
Would the improvement over the 1/2 length bar be enough to justify the work???
 
Synchro909 said:
I'm wondering if it would be possible to put a Panhard Bar from a bracket mounted to one side of the rear axle using the bolts at the brake backing plate, past the back of the diff and to a bracket on the back of the chassis. That would be better than the 1/2 length bar shown if it is possible. The brackets would have to be long enough to clear the diff and the longer they are, the weaker they are.
Would the improvement over the 1/2 length bar be enough to justify the work???
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Not saying it won't work, but I don't think there is enough room behind the axle with the spring and all there to do as you propose. The bumper brackets are in that area also. If you look at my pictures you will notice that my Panhard Bar is actually in front of the spring.

I don't know if the Model A suspension travel is enough to make a difference either.

Looks like something for your next project... ;);)
 
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Synchro909 said:
I'm wondering if it would be possible to put a Panhard Bar from a bracket mounted to one side of the rear axle using the bolts at the brake backing plate, past the back of the diff and to a bracket on the back of the chassis. That would be better than the 1/2 length bar shown if it is possible. The brackets would have to be long enough to clear the diff and the longer they are, the weaker they are.
Would the improvement over the 1/2 length bar be enough to justify the work???
Click to expand...

The Panhard bar in length is actually over half the distance between the frame rails. The mount on the rear axle pivots from the opposite side of the axle's center housing giving you well over half the width of the frame in the bar's length. The bar works very well and no more improvement is needed that I can tell.
 
SSsssteamer said:
The Panhard bar in length is actually over half the distance between the frame rails. The mount on the rear axle pivots from the opposite side of the axle's center housing giving you well over half the width of the frame in the bar's length. The bar works very well and no more improvement is needed that I can tell.
Click to expand...

I agree. I am very happy with the Panhard Bar on my '30 Town Sedan. Been on ~2 years now.
 
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