headlight peoblem on 1939 ford
- Thread starter fleetpaint
- Start date
George/Maine
Well-known member
I think there should be a circuit breaker there not relay.I would jumper them across and see if its any better.I guess a stocker has a light switch on steering colume check that if ok check high and low switch and any wires.I see someone is by passing the ballast resister.I see no need for a relay for headlights.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
You may be getting an intermittent short in the circuit somewhere. The circuit breakers have a heat sensitive bi-metalic strip that opens the circuit when it heats up from a short or high resistance ground. Inspect the wiring real well and clean all related electrical connectors/ground connectors. If all checks serviceable, you may just need a new circuit breaker.
The relay should be for the horns.
Kerby
The relay should be for the horns.
Kerby
richard crow
Well-known member
that is the circuit braker.before replacing you should check the light circuit for a short. remove the wire from the braker take a jumper with an amp meter put the jumper on a batt source. the other term on the amp meter to the wire you removed for the light circuit . see whst the draw is when you turn on the lights draw should be no more than 20 amps .stock lighting system. if amp meter shows a high reading you have a short if you added extra lights it will be higher circuit braker part # 91a-12250. if amp reading is high find & repair short do not jump the braker if you have a short it could cause a fire.if amp gauge reading is not high the braker is at fault.
Frank The Plumber
Well-known member
Keep in mind that you need a flow of electricity back to the battery as well, it could be that you have an intermittent loss of ground causes by rust or oxidation or a loose wire, try taking a wire from the ground of the socket and returning it to the frame at a clean spot.
I had similar problems on my '39 sedan. I quite methodically disconnected and cleaned every connection in the circuits for both sides. Connections under the kidney cover were soldered. I also removed the sockets and bulbs to clean and reinstall. Don't forget about the switch at the bottom of the steering column. What a crappy idea to put it there. It gets caked with oil, grease and dirt. I opened mine up and could not believe the mess inside.
After all that, I finished by gently polishing the reflectors. A lot of work, but worth it in the end. Good luck, Tom.
After all that, I finished by gently polishing the reflectors. A lot of work, but worth it in the end. Good luck, Tom.
COE Dan
Senior Member
Good suggestions already posted...consider this last one...
The bulb sockets have a contact in the center that is spring loaded. Over time, the wire may become frayed. When the bulb is inserted, the spring or the bulb socket housing comes into contact with the frayed wire. When you take the bulb out, the frayed wired was no longer grounded to the spring or housing. Put the bulb back in and short showed back up. This happened on my car with the parking lights.
If you've tried everything else, you'll have to isolate each socket if it's a bad wire near the spring in the socket.
The bulb sockets have a contact in the center that is spring loaded. Over time, the wire may become frayed. When the bulb is inserted, the spring or the bulb socket housing comes into contact with the frayed wire. When you take the bulb out, the frayed wired was no longer grounded to the spring or housing. Put the bulb back in and short showed back up. This happened on my car with the parking lights.
If you've tried everything else, you'll have to isolate each socket if it's a bad wire near the spring in the socket.
fleetpaint
Junior Member
Thanks guys! I think have a bad breaker, anyone know where I can get a new one? can I just replace it with a more modern unit?
COE Dan
Senior Member
You might be able to get one from Joblot and maybe Dennis Carpenter. I bought one but I'll have to check my records as to who I bought it from. It was NOS and came wrapped in cloth and cosmoline.
I don't recall if the breaker is stock to the 39 anyways. My 39 has a fuse where your breaker is but it not a modified part...may have come off a different year. The breaker is stock for the later vehicles (starting in 41 maybe?). My 47 COE has a larger fiberboard circuit panel with the ignition coil and a circuit breaker.
COE Dan
I don't recall if the breaker is stock to the 39 anyways. My 39 has a fuse where your breaker is but it not a modified part...may have come off a different year. The breaker is stock for the later vehicles (starting in 41 maybe?). My 47 COE has a larger fiberboard circuit panel with the ignition coil and a circuit breaker.
COE Dan
flatjack9
Well-known member
Most any "old" Ford parts supplier will have this piece. It is replaced as an assembly and includes the ignition resistor which I see you have bypassed. 1939 DeLuxe and Standard are different units. The Standard had a fuse, while the DeLuxe had the breaker like you show.
FRANK PKNY
Well-known member
I baught a nos one from CC in Cal. I think it was reasonable as I recall. Somebody help me here C ? ford parts. Nice people.
Kube
Super Moderator
Not all 39 standards had a fuse. Near the middle of the production year Ford began to install the breaker in all the models vs. the fuse.
sturgis 39
BANNED
My 39 standard has the breaker.
Fleetpaint
Why are you by passing the resistor?
Fleetpaint
Why are you by passing the resistor?
fleetpaint
Junior Member
I recently purchased the car & thats the way it is? It has been converted to 12 volt, could that be why?
