1935 ford ring job

U said in post#4 your at 85 to 90 psi per cyl? That's not that bad especially if pretty consistently within 10 to 15 % & u'r within 10%. MMO works great for removing the build up and carbon but on an old engine the stuff your cleaning out will cause more loss of compression if it's on the rings. the carbon buildup there is keeping the seal better. Hard to believe Mass doesn't make allowances for antique vintage cars. If your in the Boston area I'll bet it's a harder inspection. I'd try an inspection station away from the city. Then just run it through. My bet is if it's a nice piece u'll get some compliments and it'll go right thru. If not worry about it after they fail it. Why do anything till then. While I agree with JSeery a PCV on the breather will be pulling in contaminates thru rear crank area. But just to get it thru inspection cant hurt anything then disconnect and go with your standard breather til next inspection.
 
The cylinder pressure numbers look pretty good! Keep in mind if the issue is oil around the valve stems, new rings are not going to help much.
 
He might still be able to use PC A 35 has a funnel on the breather that takes air from the fan and vents it out the left front side near the engine mount ,You could use a PC valve under the manifold and suck this air from the oil breather ,providing you don't seal of the motor completely it will suck at the least point of resistance ,that would be at the pan vent or the oil fill .I think What you are trying to do is reduce the positive pressure produced by blow by so it should be almost a equalising affect you could block the pan vent to reduce the chance of sucking in dirt ,Ted
 
I had a problem getting my photos down loaded ,but here is a photo of a 35 /36rear main seal ,am I missing something here ,Ted
 

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FlatheadTed said:
He might still be able to use PC A 35 has a funnel on the breather that takes air from the fan and vents it out the left front side near the engine mount ,You could use a PC valve under the manifold and suck this air from the oil breather ,providing you don't seal of the motor completely it will suck at the least point of resistance ,that would be at the pan vent or the oil fill .I think What you are trying to do is reduce the positive pressure produced by blow by so it should be almost a equalising affect you could block the pan vent to reduce the chance of sucking in dirt ,Ted
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i had stated in the beginning that this is a 36 engine. would the rear main be the same?
 
Go to any auto parts store & buy a can of RESTORE it won't fix your engine but will help enough to get you thru the inspection. It does work.
 
B-O-B said:
Go to any auto parts store & buy a can of RESTORE it won't fix your engine but will help enough to get you thru the inspection. It does work.
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can you give me more details on "RESTORE"?
i want to make sure i'm looking at the same thing.
 
You could do a search of Pc valves on here its been done before no disrespect meant for J seery but there's no chance you will suck dust in a the main its sealed of .A PC is no substitute for a re ring job ,Ted
 
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Far as I know that is the only one & that is the name. Wally world or auto parts store.
 
Mechanic in a can , it may slow the blu smoke onset , so will stopping and letting it completely cool down before you start to enter the emission station . Go the night before camp out , be the first in line . It shouldn't smoke till it gets warm .
Let us know what works .
Forgot to say good luck .
Back in the day my dad would leave a bottle of scotch on the seat . Was gone when he got in and he always passed . Long before cameras , yes NJ has had inspection that long . Still have none down here in Palm bch , Fl .
 
Ggmac said:
Mechanic in a can , it may slow the blu smoke onset , so will stopping and letting it completely cool down before you start to enter the emission station . Go the night before camp out , be the first in line . It shouldn't smoke till it gets warm .
Let us know what works .
Forgot to say good luck .
Back in the day my dad would leave a bottle of scotch on the seat . Was gone when he got in and he always passed . Long before cameras , yes NJ has had inspection that long . Still have none down here in Palm bch , Fl .
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sticker is not due till april so i have time to experiment. i'll try this first.
 
thanks to all for the input. i've picked up a lot of good info on this post and will probably try the easy road first if i can get by the summer(hate to miss all the summer cruises}.
i'll probably pull the engine in oct or nov and do the rings and valves the proper way.
i was thinking of changing to adjustable lifters to avoid grinding and lapping.
any drawbacks on adjustables?
is there a preferred brand?
 
t35 said:
i was thinking of changing to adjustable lifters to avoid grinding and lapping.
any drawbacks on adjustables?
is there a preferred brand?
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You can still order the Johnson lifters. There are a number of older threads on adjustable lifters. The biggest issues with other suppliers (at least in the past) is a lot of variation in the tension on the adjustment screw and they sometimes loosen up and the hardness not being correct.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236325&highlight=Johnson+lifter
 
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Pete has commented in a couple of threads NOT to put new lifters on a used cam. I haven't seen a reason given, but Pete has a reputation for giving sound advice. I have always heard not to put used lifters on a new cam, but Pete's warning was the fist I have heard against new lifters on a used cam.
 
40cpe said:
Pete has commented in a couple of threads NOT to put new lifters on a used cam. I haven't seen a reason given, but Pete has a reputation for giving sound advice. I have always heard not to put used lifters on a new cam, but Pete's warning was the fist I have heard against new lifters on a used cam.
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i was thinking about that myself. it makes sense.
maybe i can contact Johnson with the question.
 
Ideally, the cam should be reground back to specs or replaced if needed and the tappet followers need to be properly refaced per OEM specs. This is the best way to eliminate abnormal wear that can happen between used and new parts.
 
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