Pushed horn, now no spark

Grape PI

Grape PI

Junior Member
OK Ganng. I could use a bit of help here.


So I took my 29 out today. Ran great. The horn has only worked intermittently since I bought it in October. A while back, I oiled it and spun it by hand. That seemed to fix the problem. On my ride today, I tried the horn just to see if it was working. When I did, I lost RPM and the car backfired many times. I found that if I depressed the horn button, it ran better and did not backfire. I limped it home about a mile and a half like that. Luckily making into the garage. Now it will not start. Acts like no spark. Also, there are after market turning signals on the car. When this issue began, the indicator lights on the unit attached to the steering column became very bright.

Any ideas?
 
Disconnect everything except what's need for the engine to run.
I think I'd start with the horn.
 

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Use the wiring diagram and start troubleshooting. There is no way an armchair mechanic with those few meager clues can do anything except guess. Buy a GOOD multimeter, use the diagram, mark voltages as you go. Track it down. Don't "fix" anything until you figure out whats broke/bad. You'll get a bunch of random..."replace the condenser/flux capacitor" "Change the blinker fluid" etc etc. Replacing parts will just introduce more issues.
 
While I completely agree with what Eagle has said, I'd add that the problem seemed to coincide with the use of the horn. Thus, if I were working on this problem, I'd start with the light switch at the bottom of the steering column, as that is where the horn contact is made. Perhaps the spider came loose, and is causing a short.
 
Check the fuse. If the fuse blew or if you have a bad battery connection, that might cause your symptoms. You may have been running straight off the generator.
 
Update

6.24V everywhere. Both sides of starter. Both sides of terminal box. Both sides of coil. I have voltage to movable point when open. When they close, no voltage on either side and voltage on driver side of coil goes away as it should.

No spark from coil wire that leads to distributor.
 
UPDATE!

Key ignition switch was the problem. Bypassed it and we are off and running.

Thanks for all of the input guys!


Beer time!
 
Grape PI said:
UPDATE!

Key ignition switch was the problem. Bypassed it and we are off and running.

Thanks for all of the input guys!


Beer time!
Click to expand...

Is it one of those cheap crappy ones with the 2 screw terminals out the back that like to short against the gas tank?
 
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