1935 ford ring job

T

t35

Member
my 35 has a 36 engine with inserts.
i'm concerned about getting a massachusetts(new inspection laws) sticker, since it does put out some smoke. when i last had the cylinder heads off there was very little ridge on the cylinder walls.
i would like to try doing a ring job with engine in the car since i only drive about 1,000 miles per year.
any thoughts on the practicality?
does anyone know a way around doing anything?
 
compression is between 85 and 95 with all plugs out.
would i put pcv it in the breather tube?
are there any ready made kits?
i don't have an oil filter.
 
As Brendan pointed out, a 35 Ford flathead does not have a rear seal on the crankshaft. A PCV setup will create a negative pressure inside the engine and draw air in around the crankshaft. That air is coming from the flywheel/pressure plate/clutch area. I would not want to draw than unfiltered are into an engine.
 
t35 said:
my 35 has a 36 engine with inserts.
i'm concerned about getting a massachusetts(new inspection laws) sticker, since it does put out some smoke. when i last had the cylinder heads off there was very little ridge on the cylinder walls.
i would like to try doing a ring job with engine in the car since i only drive about 1,000 miles per year.
any thoughts on the practicality?
does anyone know a way around doing anything?
Click to expand...

Massachusetts emission rules do not apply to your car. If the brakes, lights, front end are good and it drives to your satisfaction you should be good for a sticker. Before you take it in talk to the inspection station and see if my thoughts are correct. Doesn't hurt to ask.
Maybe MMO and 100 miles of driving will clean the rings and diminish the smoke
John
 
they are now rejecting even older cars for smoking exhaust. been in effect since oct 2017.
they also now have cameras in inspection bays.
 
The MMO in the fuel can help with some driving under power to reduce carbon in the rings & valves. If it has been smoking for a while and still does so after warm up, it may be time for a re-ring. I personally don't like doing an in car partial O/H but folks did it for years with limited success. When ever I did worn cylinder ring jobs, I usually had the best luck with Hastings rings if they still make them for the old buggers. Ream the ridges and do a good hone with a ball type flex hone. If the cylinder wall wear is beyond specs for a bore job then results can easily be unsatisfactory.
 
it seems that hastigs rings are still available nos at different oversizes.
now i have to carefully gauge each cylinder, no telling what's been done with this engine.
i think i remember old mechanics doing one piston at a time while in car.
 
No idea why you would do one piston at a time. But the big issue is keeping the honing debris out of the engine.
 
I always use soap & water with a stiff brush after the hone. The oil pan would be off anyway but the crankshaft would need a good careful cleaning too. There is always a risk doing work in situ. That's why I don't.
 
t35 said:
they are now rejecting even older cars for smoking exhaust. been in effect since oct 2017.
they also now have cameras in inspection bays.
Click to expand...

Now is this something you had a discussion with the inspection station??
 
t35 said:
my 35 has a 36 engine with inserts.
i'm concerned about getting a massachusetts(new inspection laws) sticker, since it does put out some smoke. when i last had the cylinder heads off there was very little ridge on the cylinder walls.
i would like to try doing a ring job with engine in the car since i only drive about 1,000 miles per year.
any thoughts on the practicality?
does anyone know a way around doing anything?
Click to expand...

I just got done building a 36 steel piston motor . Check carefully near the very top of the cylinder . The steel piston has a very high ring location . If there's no finger nail catching ridge , still remove what is there before pushing Pistons . Don't use a carbide ridge cutter , if you do be VERY careful not to cut below the upper piston ring location . It's best and easiest to just hone the small ridge out .
When you buy piston rings make sure you buy them for steel Pistons .
I can email you a pic of how high the ring is to get an idea of what I'm talking about .
Gary
 
Mass inspection is a pain in the butt. They now take photos of your odometer, license plate. I have yet to have the hot rod or the 40 inspected, so we will see what happens. The guy I go to is an old drag racer who wrenched on a funny car. Any one in Mass had a vintage car inspected since 10/17 ?
 
Ggmac said:
I just got done building a 36 steel piston motor . Check carefully near the very top of the cylinder . The steel piston has a very high ring location . If there's no finger nail catching ridge , still remove what is there before pushing Pistons . Don't use a carbide ridge cutter , if you do be VERY careful not to cut below the upper piston ring location . It's best and easiest to just hone the small ridge out .
When you buy piston rings make sure you buy them for steel Pistons .
I can email you a pic of how high the ring is to get an idea of what I'm talking about .
Gary
Click to expand...
yes i would appreciate the pic...
 
t35 said:
my 35 has a 36 engine with inserts.
i'm concerned about getting a massachusetts(new inspection laws) sticker, since it does put out some smoke. when i last had the cylinder heads off there was very little ridge on the cylinder walls.
i would like to try doing a ring job with engine in the car since i only drive about 1,000 miles per year.
any thoughts on the practicality?
does anyone know a way around doing anything?
Click to expand...

You're not working on the space shuttle! These engines have run well for years with low budget repairs. Go for a re-ring job. First mike the cylinders to see what oversize, if any. Or scrub the top of a piston to see what oversize. Parts stores like O'Reill'ys, Autozone and Advance loan tools like ridge reamers, cylinder hones, ring compressors and torque wrenches. You can find inexpensive mikes on ebay, etc. if you feel the need to measure. If the cylinder walls are smooth (light scratches are OK), just cut the ridge, push out the pistons, tape over the oil holes in the crankshaft, hone the cylinders, clean everything and reassemble. Good to go!
I've had good results just putting rings in cylinders with as much as .019" taper. At only 1,000 miles a year, you should be good for 15-20 years.
 
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