Help need to repair a '35 Column Drop

v8nut

v8nut

Senior Member
Can any body give me a lead on someone who can repair this '35 Column Drop. It has two problems. Number one, I can't remove the lock cylinder even tho' I have drilled out the keeper pin. See picture. Number two, and more importantly the sleeve that the lock lever attaches to and fits around the locking pin is almost completely broken away. See picture. Any leads or suggestions would be appreciated. Jim in San Jose.
 

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Early 35 column drop. first get the lock cylinder out. then remove the end cap. Push the lock bolt inward to remove the switch handle with the ON/OFF plate removed, then the lock bolt will come out. The early 35 switch handle is identical to the 32 and that is reproduced and sold on the fordbarn.com, the ON/OFF switch plate, all the screws spring and ball and special cap are all sold new. I believe the back of the switch handle is what your viewing as a worn shaft. See items 12 & 13 below.
 

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Terry said:
Early 35 column drop. first get the lock cylinder out. then remove the end cap. Push the lock bolt inward to remove the switch handle with the ON/OFF plate removed, then the lock bolt will come out. The early 35 switch handle is identical to the 32 and that is reproduced and sold on the fordbarn.com, the ON/OFF switch plate, all the screws spring and ball and special cap are all sold new. I believe the back of the switch handle is what your viewing as a worn shaft. See items 12 & 13 below.
Click to expand...

Is part #8 required? I do not find that in the Green Book for 33/34 or 37--The Early Ford Store only shows it for 1932--
Not sure about 35/36--Thanks, Don
 
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Yes part #8 is required for 35 and 36 I believe it has part number 48-3736. Very hard to find and they are not reproduced. You can make one from flat metal 0.050" thick.
 
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It looks to me like it is part #13 that I need. Mine is in pieces. I might be able to make one out of a bushing of the right size. But, as of right now I can't even get it apart because I can't remove the lock cylinder. Jim
 
Terry said:
Yes part #8 is required for 35 and 36 I believe it has part number 48-3736. Very hard to find and they are not reproduced. You can make one from flat metal 0.050" thick.
Click to expand...

Thanks Terry--I did find it in the Green Book now--I will make one after figuring what the 3 bent tabs are supposed to do and exactly where to position them--
 
Are you sure that you have drilled the lock pin entirely out? If you have, it may be just dirt and rust holding the lock cylinder in place. Try penetrating oil and let soak. use the key to pull the lock out.
 
I wouldn't drill any more !
From what I can see he is deep enough.
I would soak it in Evap O Rust for 3- 4 days for starters.
Finesse is the plan here ....unless you want to buy a new cylinder.....
 
Thanks to all for the help. I was able to get the lock cylinder out with a little acetone and ATF. Now it is all apart. Terry in OH, I did reply to Chad at zaemo@mac.com. Is he part of Mac's Auto Parts? Can you tell me anything more about seeing this switch lever for sale on the Barn. Thanks again, Jim
 
I do not believe Chad is associated with Mac's auto parts. Neal has supplied the ebay link above, take a look at the photos.
 
Thanks to Neil and Terry. I am in direct touch with Chad. Problem solved!! This Barn is a life saver. Jim in San Jose
 
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