1932 - The Tie Rod Wobble

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1962300

Senior Member
Ya know that rare, but sometimes, crazy front end wobble the car may get?
The only way to make it go away, I have found, is to stop & start again.
It is only happened to me a couple 2 -3 times since assembling the car.

I have a 1932 Roadster.
Stock rails.
Stock suspension.
Dropped Ford Front Axle.
5:50-16" Front Tires
7:00-16" Rear Tires

Everything is new / rebuilt.
Anyone have any thoughts?
I think it is due to the Tie Rods?

Thanks!
 
I think you will find placing a steering damper on your tie rod is a pretty popular fix for this situation. The VW damper is also popular and if your parts house can’t supply you might try Amazon.
 
Are your tires properly balanced? I had the same issue early on with my avatar. Balanced the tires (I started using dynabeads right at that time) and about 1/2 of the problem went away. Replaced the kingpins next and I have not had it since .....
 
petehoovie said:
Tighten up the tie rod ends....
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Yes true, the first place to check is, where the action is.

There are many places that the dynamic of shimmy, wobble, wabble ( crazy or death ) can be introduced to the workings of two steer tires having an argument, about which way is home....

I've had a few decades of service station and tire store experience dissecting front ends, eliminating slop and alignment troubles. All, though, ( except avatar ) on IFS systems. I got real lucky with my T when the shakes came. Solved the issue with a move of back tire to front.

The thought of having a straight axle transfer forces of rotational and steering irregularities, from side to side, and the steer system, makes me say a damper is a great idea. (driven many VW vans ) If all else checks out (beginning with the frame, ending with tire casing issues- including dynamic balance) Then tie the tie rod up, with a VW damper. Happy Motoring

after checking that other thread, I decided to post a tribute to a former contributor.

!!!!With important emphasis on his last line.!!!!

DICK SPADARO
Senior Member

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Altamont, NY
Posts: 1,004
Default Re: "Death wobble
This was posted before but if you need information about alignment due to front wheel oscillations go to the Jalopy Journal web site, HAMB section, an do a search titled death wobble, there is a bunch off information on cures and causes.

The starting point is to insure that the axle is installed square to the centerline of the vehicle, one tire cannot lead the other tire.

Also when the tie rod is installed that the spindles where each positioned at 90* to the axle to get a true straight ahead track.

The next step is to make sure that you have no loose connections ie: tie rod ends. Followed by even air pressure in your tires 24-26 lbs for most light cars.

That the toe in is set correctly not to exceed 1/8" and caster is equal on both sides not to exceed 6* rear rake.

That both tires, wheels and drums are correctly balanced with no runout on the wheel.

You WILL need to recheck all these steps and not skip over any because you thought it was correct.

R.I.P. Dick. You are missed.

*
 
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Need to mention also, that if the symptom is allowed to persist then replacement of tie rod ends WILL become mandatory, and yet not get to the prob. Good Luck hanging that damper.
 
The Death Wobble issue has been discussed quite a bit on here. I have posted my thoughts previously but I can't find my original to repost... soooo.... here goes.
I have a Brookville roadster, no fenders or top so it's pretty light. It's on an original 32 frame with a warmed up 8BA, LZ gears in a 78 case with 3:78 gears in an early B rear. Steering box is an original 32 with 15:1 ratio worm and sector adjusted EXACTLY as the Service Bulletin describes . EVERYTHING in the car is of the highest quality NEW or freshly rebuilt. Lincoln brakes in the front, 40 Ford in the rear. 16 X 4 wheels in the front 16 X 4 1/2 wheels in the rear. New Coker Classics 31" radial tires in the rear 26" in the front. Super Bell dropped axle with a Posies front spring. Posies rear spring with several leaves removed in the rear. The car runs and drives like a dream. Goes down the road straight as an arrow, barely have to hold the wheel. BUT every once in a while when making a slow turn right or left on a slightly rough road, the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE will occur. I think the problem that is common to all the cars that have this issue is the Caster setting. I'm not sure if it's too much or too little. Because of the combination of Big n Little tires and dropped front axle the caster has been changed beyond the stock specs. I know we have all read postings that say changing tires, tire pressures, tie rod ends or tightening loose parts or replacing worn parts, have solved issues on specific cars. I think it's the caster. I'm installing steering dampers on several of my cars mainly because I'm tired of chasing this problem. I can't change the caster easily on any of them because they all have uncut stock wishbones. Didn't get around to installing them this year. Hopefully I'll do them in Spring of 18.
I'll let Y'all know what happens.
 
I had the same problem and replaced what I thought was everything that could cause the problem, including the worm and sector and playing with the toe setting. Still had it... With a friend slowly and quickly rocking the steering wheel I found the pitman arm was rocking. I found that the sector shaft bushings were worn worse than they originally looked - especially the inner one. I took I believe DavidG's advice and had the housing machined for later 1936 and up needle bearings and oil seal. The pitman arm rocking was gone afterward and That was the cure for my problem. It also fixed the oil leak on the pitman / sector shaft
 
I also agree on caster settings .

To have a dropped axle or big and littlies or pie cut wishbones to induce rake will change the caster angle to the road on the front axle.
 
I had the issue on my '29 roadster on '32 rails. I noticed it was much more prone to do it when I ran a lower front tire pressure. I kept the front tire pressure up around 35 PSI and it really seemed to help.
 
I know there's some on here that say it's a crutch but I put a steering damper on every straight axle car that I build. In my opinion it makes them nicer to drive. I just finished a 32 pu with split bones and a 37 Hudson side steering box and it drives great.
 
Krylon32 said:
I know there's some on here that say it's a crutch but I put a steering damper on every straight axle car that I build. In my opinion it makes them nicer to drive. I just finished a 32 pu with split bones and a 37 Hudson side steering box and it drives great.
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You're building quality products, I think it becomes a crutch when it is used to cover up defective parts.
 
I have found that a steering damper is needed when running a dropped axle. I run one on all my hot rods and never have a problem. And yes everything else is checked out and adjusted properly. Been doing this stuff over 55 years. Ran the VW damper back then which is basically the same thing that is offered by So-Cal etc.
 

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uncle buck said:
I had the same problem and replaced what I thought was everything that could cause the problem, including the worm and sector and playing with the toe setting. Still had it... With a friend slowly and quickly rocking the steering wheel I found the pitman arm was rocking. I found that the sector shaft bushings were worn worse than they originally looked - especially the inner one. I took I believe DavidG's advice and had the housing machined for later 1936 and up needle bearings and oil seal. The pitman arm rocking was gone afterward and That was the cure for my problem. It also fixed the oil leak on the pitman / sector shaft
Click to expand...

The 36 shaft is hardened for use with the needle bearings. A non hardened shaft will quickly be grooved by the high contact stresses. You need to watch it.
 
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