taking the drums off

I used my VP puller on my roadster and the hubs had been kept very tight. I had to really tighten it up very tight to pop off the hubs. The first one came off after winding it very tight and applying a couple of heavy knocks with a heavy hammer. The second one was also very tight and put up a good struggle. With that one, though, after winding it very tight, I had to undo it to reposition the wrenches. After releasing the tension, it seemed that I did not have to apply so much pressure the second time to make it pop off.

I could be fooling myself, but if I find one that is very stubborn I may just try repetitive tightening and loosening. I can't say for sure it helped that one time, but it did seen to pop with less torque the second time.

Mart.
 
I know I'll get some grief for saying this, but the pullers mentioned are pretty expensive, for a one time use, has anyone used a puller from the parts store? or does anyone have one I could borrow?
 
You have to use the proper puller, a parts store is not going to have it. VanPelt has tools you can rent and a local flathead guy might have one as well. If you have the equipment you can also fabricate one. Attempting to pull the hubs without the proper puller just about guarantees a destroyed drum (which can be replaced fairly easily) and/or damaged axle threads (which can be replaced with MUCH more difficulty and a cost that would make the price of the proper puller seem cheap!!).
 
I have a KR Wilson puller...I'm in Clarkston MI. You can borrow mine if you can't find one closer to you. You may need a puller for more than a "one time use"...I've needed mine twice so far. I believe these pullers also hold their value pretty well so, if you owned one and knew you didn't need it anymore, you should be able to get most of your money back out of it.
 
FortyNiner said:
I was able to remove the drums from my 46 without a puller. Just needed some minor tapping and patience. This presumes that the wheels turn - meaning that the brakes aren't locked.
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If mine came off easily I would install brake safety clips or safety hubs when I reinstalled them. When the axle nuts are loose they stress the axle and make it crack. Once a crack starts it will grow until the axle fails (and the wheel comes off).

Charlie Stephens
 
Capt Kirk said:
I have a KR Wilson puller...I'm in Clarkston MI. You can borrow mine if you can't find one closer to you. You may need a puller for more than a "one time use"...I've needed mine twice so far. I believe these pullers also hold their value pretty well so, if you owned one and knew you didn't need it anymore, you should be able to get most of your money back out of it.
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I'll see if the guys at NAPA know of anybody
 
when using the kr wilson puller you do not keep tightening the nut till it pulls the drum off .you tighten the nut very tight then hit the pulling screw with a large hammer .then tighten the nut more hit in again keep doing this until drum is broken loose.if you just keep tightening the puller screw with out the hammer blows you will damaged the threads. the puller is designed to work this way
 
Topher5150 said:
I know I'll get some grief for saying this, but the pullers mentioned are pretty expensive, for a one time use, has anyone used a puller from the parts store? or does anyone have one I could borrow?
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Topher.....What you should realize(as well as others who insist on using cheap, alternative pullers) is how this puller pulls. It pulls at the very center of the HUB, right where it fits onto the axle taper. It pulls on the hub, STRAIGHT-in-line with the axle. The hub is a solid, forged piece of steel which has a pulling notch built-in to the hub at it's center just for the purpose of pulling it off (with the proper tool) when the need arises. MOST other types of pullers are designed to attach to the wheel studs to facilitate the pulling force. IF the hub was originally installed properly with that big axle nut torqued anywhere near the requisite 200-ish ft. lbs, the fit of the tapered hub onto the tapered axle acts on the same principle as a Morse Taper, and essentially "locks" the two pieces solid....solid-enough that that wimpy 1/4" key stock is essentially unnecessary to affect the transmission of torque from the axle to the hub. When torqued properly to begin with, attaching alternative pullers to the wheel studs pulls on the wrong area of the drum/hub assembly to amass the proper force to effect the job at hand. What happens is the drum ends up bent and deformed, and the flat flange on the hub where the drum and wheel studs mount can EASILY be deformed/bent, rendering the hub/drum as worthless junk. Believe me, you can't straighten them back to an acceptable condition. Useable replacement hubs/drums are very hard to come-by now-a-days, and even when available, they ain't cheap any more. Do yourself a favor and USE THE CORRECT PULLER! DD
 
I bought a “cheap $75” puller, it worked a couple times and now it’s junk. Wish I would have spent another $75 and had a quality tool in my toolbox :(
 
ok I got a puller, that someone let me have, I got one drum off easy enough, but the other side is still stuck. I got the drum off enough to see that it looks like wheel cylinder is stuck open on one side. does anyone have any tricks to get rusted wheel cylinders off? Remember this cars has probably been sitting longer than I've been alive.
 
I didn't read all the threads so I may repeat some. First of all if the long tapers
on the axle and inside the drum were clean and dry when installed you are NOT
going to get them off without a GOOD strong puller. When drawn on tight they
lock together so tight you don't even need a key. If you see long marks on the
key it means the axle moved in the hub. Make sure the brake adjustments are
loose before pulling. If not loose grooves in the drum and on the brakes will
interlock and a GOOD puller will rip them right out from their pivot points. A
good puller is an old Snap-On blue point. I tore drums off a 40 Ford that sat on
the ground on the drums for 50 years. G.M.
 
I was looking at the other side, that had the drum off, and I didn't see any thing that looked like an adjuster. Are the similar the modern adjusters?
 
Topher5150 said:
I was looking at the other side, that had the drum off, and I didn't see any thing that looked like an adjuster. Are the similar the modern adjusters?
Click to expand...

This photo shows the 4 adjusters (two for each shoe) on a '39-'41 rear brake. Your '47 should only have the two UPPER adjustment points. DD

346737
 
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