Radiator advice

Grandpa's Huckster

Grandpa's Huckster

Junior Member
I live in Florida and have had issues with my car running hot at speed. I consistently run at or over 190 degrees and am confident that the timing is not an issue. I have a very small leak at the base of the inlet tube on my radiator and wonder if this is a indication of the inside of my cooling system. I have vinegar flushed it and know it was professionally flushed before I purchased the car. I have considered biting the bullet and replacing it with a new one, but have a few options. Both are marketed as heavy duty but one has 8 fins per inch at a hundred dollars cheaper than the one that has 10 fins per inch. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
The flushing you said the radiator was given may not have removed all of the blockages. Only removing the tanks and clearing the tubes can do that with certainty. That small leak would be fixed at the same time. I think that is what I would do.
If it comes to replacing it, the more tubes and more fins, the better. I believe that the price has long been forgotten when a quality component is still in use long after the cheapo one has quit. JMHO
 
I have rodded out 2 myself recently.

Waste of time .

They ended up with a dozen leaks.

I reckon the tubes were so rusty and gunked up that the rodding chipped it away and caused holes.
 
My recommendation if your car is running hot.

Top of the line radiator, correct fan, water pump at 100% (we use dripless pump), engine side pans. I also run with only water. Car not used in winter.

I have never had a Model A overheat. Enjoy.
 
While 190 degrees is on the upper side it is not what I would consider "over heating"
How are you measuring the temperature?
I find that the most accurate way to do so is by using a meat thermometer placed directly into the coolant by way of removing the radiator cap.
Are you loosing coolant and having to refill it often? Model A's don't usually like having the radiator filled to the top. It will push out coolant until it finds a level that it likes. If this is happening do not put any coolant back into it as long as there is enough coolant in the radiator to keep the tubes covered. Monitor the water temperature with the meat thermometer often as the water level adjusts itself.
For your small leak at the base of the inlet neck a simple (but not correct) fix would be to cut a small piece of cotton cloth just slightly bigger than the area that leaks and saturate it with silicone caulk. Clean the area well before applying the saturated patch and the odds are it will last for many years.
 
I have a temp guage. It has gotten higher than 190, but never boiled over. I never have to add much water after it "finds its level." I have checked coolant with a thermometer and my guage seems to be well calibrated. The miniscule leak isn't as concerning as running too hot, to me.
 
In my book 190 degrees is too hot to be running consistantly. 190 has very little margin when running in hot climates like Texas and Florida. Running along on flat country at 190 then start up a hill and suddenly it is at 212. Once they start to boil it is difficult to get that temp back down.

Had the same problen on the engine in Woodycab. Constantly at 190 or even 200 then would boil. Radiatorvinagar flushed, Simple green flushed, rodded, nothing helped. Finally bit the bullet and bought a 8 fins per inch Snyder HD radiator. Problem solves. She now runs at a consistant 150 or 160 even tin hte summmer.

The problem turned out to be an old worn out but still nice looking radiator. Over the years the constant vibrations shake the fins loose from the tubes. Fins are not soldered to the tubes. It is just a snug press fit. When that happens the heat will not disassapate (sp). finish later , gotta answeer the phone. ken
 
OK guys, I am back. Phone call over.

Moral to my story above is it is time to buy a new radiator. Don Snyders 8 fin per inch HD radiator solved my problem
 
Get real. When your modern car is pushing 90 years of age, would you even dream of demanding another few years of service from its radiator?! It's time--just replace it.
 
Radiator,,Radiator,,Radiator.. Just cause it looks good doesn't mean it is. I can have fins separated from the tubes. It can be clogged or it can just be a crap radiator. Call Gery at Bergs Radiators and get a quality 8-10 fin radiator and be done. Yes it will be expensive but you can put all of this behind you and start enjoying your car.
 
I agree replace the radiator! Due the 10 fins in my opinion I have always used Brassworks with no issues Bob
 
Are you running a thermostat? If so, what temperature?
Is the water pump impeller all there ? Or has it worn away to not enough to pump the coolant properly?
What are you running for coolant? Water? Water/anti-freeze mix?
 
I purchased the "4 row radiator" from Bert's in Denver. It is so efficient you will need to run a thermostat in order for your engine to maintain operating temp. I highly recommend this radiator. It is priced at $650 which is in line with other manufacturers. If the cooling system in your block is clean your engine will not over heat with this radiator..
 
Al 29Tudor said:
Have any of you gents used aluminum radiators and if so what do you think?
Al
Click to expand...

I have seen of disappointment with aluminum radiators. Biggest problem with them is that I haven't seen one yet to fits properly. Lyle Jacobson bought one and in 4 years time it had spring a dozen leaks. Apparently his water was too harsh on the aluminum. He bought a new copper cored radiator and he has been smiling every since.
 
SSsssteamer said:
I have seen of disappointment with aluminum radiators. Biggest problem with them is that I haven't seen one yet to fits properly. Lyle Jacobson bought one and in 4 years time it had spring a dozen leaks. Apparently his water was too harsh on the aluminum. He bought a new copper cored radiator and he has been smiling every since.
Click to expand...
Thanks Lyle. I've heard so little about aluminum I appreciate your comment.
 
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