Transmission Case Question

louisb

louisb

Senior Member
Hi All,

I wanted to get some input on this transmission rear thrust surface. With this amount of wear is this case still good or is it yard art? I am unclear from the description in Vanpelt’s book. This is a 39 style toploader case. I am hoping I am not going to have to find another case.

Thanks,

—louis
 

Attachments

  • A4704FCE-70AD-47C5-9F03-FCECBBF3C55F.jpg
    A4704FCE-70AD-47C5-9F03-FCECBBF3C55F.jpg
    91.2 KB · Views: 150
I believe there was a thread on here not too long ago about machining this surface and how to bring clearances back. I'm not sure what kind of search would find that thread though.
 
Capt Kirk said:
I believe there was a thread on here not too long ago about machining this surface and how to bring clearances back. I'm not sure what kind of search would find that thread though.
Click to expand...

I believe Mart and Charlie NY were talking about that one, FWIW! DD
 
I think Vanpelt mentions this in his book but I don’t have a lathe/mill so I would have to send it to someone.

Thanks,

—louis
 
It can be surfaced with a special reverse counter bore tool but that's some special stuff for one that large. A person with a lathe and some tooling skills could also make a lapping tool from a piece of correct diameter shaft stock and a disk cut with a bore to fit the shaft and the correct diameter to fit against the thrust face. That would take a while to lap it back flat though. Mac VP recommends either reconditioning or replacement. When you put the thrust washers, cluster, & shaft assembly back in, you don't want a lot of gap to reshim there with .005" to .017" recommended end play clearance.
 
louisb said:
Yeah I think I am looking at finding a better case.

Thanks,

—louis
Click to expand...


That can be remedied with some persistence on your part. Cut a piece of flat plate into a circle about the size of the thrust surface. It should be at least 1/4" thick. Use the piece with some valve grinding compound and scrub the thrust surface across the surface in an orbital manner. Not a spin on the surface but across the surface in all directions. When you get it cleaned up, USE THE OLD REAR THRUST WASHER ground to the necessary thickness needed to add to the new thrust washer for the proper end play. I have done this, and although tedious, it works real well, and you can get the exact clearances you want.
 
louisb said:
Hi All,

I wanted to get some input on this transmission rear thrust surface. With this amount of wear is this case still good or is it yard art? I am unclear from the description in Vanpelt’s book. This is a 39 style toploader case. I am hoping I am not going to have to find another case.

Thanks,

—louis
Click to expand...
That’s what happens when you put a “Henweigh” in your transmission 😁
 
Louis, you will want new thrust washers any way, so buy some and install the cluster gear and measure the end play. then, you know what you have for wear. the surface you show is not gouged up that bad to me, id check it out before giving up
 
The thrust load is strong enough that the big soft thrust washer would wear into those grooves pretty quick. The clearance would then be an unknown after that. Mac VP states that those surfaces have to be smooth & flat on both front and rear if you want it to last and I pretty much agree.
 
Real shame to discard worn transmission cases. Why can't an enterprising person set up tooling and rework them? I'd think this would be a great resource for rebuilders.
 
Anteek29 said:
Real shame to discard worn transmission cases. Why can't an enterprising person set up tooling and rework them? I'd think this would be a great resource for rebuilders.
Click to expand...

I sprayweld and machine it for you...only one catch...you can still find a good used one cheaper.
Don´t throw them away...they will become more scarce by the day.
 
Russ/40 said:
That can be remedied with some persistence on your part. Cut a piece of flat plate into a circle about the size of the thrust surface. It should be at least 1/4" thick. Use the piece with some valve grinding compound and scrub the thrust surface across the surface in an orbital manner. Not a spin on the surface but across the surface in all directions. When you get it cleaned up, USE THE OLD REAR THRUST WASHER ground to the necessary thickness needed to add to the new thrust washer for the proper end play. I have done this, and although tedious, it works real well, and you can get the exact clearances you want.
Click to expand...

No comment ?...?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top