POR-15 Metal prep?
- Thread starter 1929
- Start date
Its not the cleaner, its the metal prep that is suppose to neutralize rust.
JohnB15632
Well-known member
I have used POR -15 extensively throughout my restoration process. I have used it throughout the interior of the body skin. I have held and prevents rust. I have also used it on individual parts and it will be the only product that I will use when I want to protect parts from further rusting. I have put it on the inside of my rear fenders. They are currently on my back shelf waiting to be installed. They show no sign of any rust.
You MUST protect your skin from touching the POR-15. It is impossible to get off.
It is one nasty product, but it does as advertised. I strongly recommend the use of this product.
Thank you,
You MUST protect your skin from touching the POR-15. It is impossible to get off.
It is one nasty product, but it does as advertised. I strongly recommend the use of this product.
Thank you,
Iam not asking about the Por-15 Paint, I know about the paint, its the same as the Bill Hirsch Miracle paint. I want to know about Por-15 Metal Prep, did you ever use that?
Hook
Senior Member
I use it on most everything I plan to paint that might rust or is rusty. About half the time I use POR-15, and the rest of the time I use rustoleum or something else. I think it does a great job prepping the metal before applying paint. Follow the directions and I think it works great.
Is it normal after you wash it down, and it dries to a brown powder and white chalk like finish?
eswanson
Senior Member
From my understanding the metal prep is to do some neutralizing but mostly it helps with etching non-rusty areas. If you are coating an older piece with no new metal then simply applying the POR-15 should be sufficient to encapsulate and prevent deterioration from rust for longer than we are likely to see the end of. I've seen examples without the use of metal prep that are a couple decades old and still look good.
Dollar Bill
Well-known member
I suspect that POR-15 metal prep is little more than phosphoric acid.
Have used both with same results and the PA is considerably cheaper. It is also available locally at Home Depot.
Have used both with same results and the PA is considerably cheaper. It is also available locally at Home Depot.
Drive Shaft Dave
Well-known member
Yes phosphoric acid is sold under many names the Home Depot stuff , it's all the same.
Aloha dave
regarding your question on por-15. I used to own a body shop we did some restoration work in the 80's and 90's. At that time the only products available were phosphoric acid base compounds. These were ok and were meant to be applied then neutralized with water and cleaned with lacquer thinner. The primer used was acrylic enamel or polyurethane base primers.
Carbon based lacquer primers were only used as a guide coat over bondo and pretty much sanded off before a enamel base primer coats.
Por-15 came along later around 2000...at least in hawaii. This compound was original ordered as a military specification product. The military had constant problems with rust even on heavy equipment. It is designed to be applied by brush or spray over a surface with rust on it. The product encapsulates the rust and will not let it bleed through. We would always wire brush or sand as much rust away before applying por-15, after drying finish with enamel primer...assuming you're using an enamel top coat.. It does not need to neutralize and much more advanced than phosphoric acid which is an etching agent. Use a dust mask and thin rubber gloves with all paint products.
Hope this helps
regarding your question on por-15. I used to own a body shop we did some restoration work in the 80's and 90's. At that time the only products available were phosphoric acid base compounds. These were ok and were meant to be applied then neutralized with water and cleaned with lacquer thinner. The primer used was acrylic enamel or polyurethane base primers.
Carbon based lacquer primers were only used as a guide coat over bondo and pretty much sanded off before a enamel base primer coats.
Por-15 came along later around 2000...at least in hawaii. This compound was original ordered as a military specification product. The military had constant problems with rust even on heavy equipment. It is designed to be applied by brush or spray over a surface with rust on it. The product encapsulates the rust and will not let it bleed through. We would always wire brush or sand as much rust away before applying por-15, after drying finish with enamel primer...assuming you're using an enamel top coat.. It does not need to neutralize and much more advanced than phosphoric acid which is an etching agent. Use a dust mask and thin rubber gloves with all paint products.
Hope this helps
Tinbasher
Well-known member
The Por- 15 Metal prep is excellent. About the strongest one we can get now. Follow the directions. Put it on, wash it off and epoxy prime over it. Don't use a Acid Etch primer over Metal Prep as it will peel.
Metal prep is Phosphoric acid and zinc. So the acid etches the surface and the zinc gives you some corrosion protection.
Hope this helps. Merry Christmas John Poole
Metal prep is Phosphoric acid and zinc. So the acid etches the surface and the zinc gives you some corrosion protection.
Hope this helps. Merry Christmas John Poole