1965 230 six carb question

2loud2old

2loud2old

Junior Member
Bought a '65 F100 that has a replaced engine. I think that it is a 230,but it could be a 300. I bought rebuilt carb and when I removed my existing carb I realized they were different. Mine is I found out a Holley 1940 and the one that I bought is an Autolite 1100. It bolted up and the linkage, fuel and vacuum lines all were in the same place. I can't get the engine to run. It will start but not run. I was on a mustang site and they were talking about matching the dist. to the holley. Can any one give me any information about this.
 
Is there power to the ignition coil when the key switch is in the *run* position? ~7 to 8 volts


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2loud2old said:
Bought a '65 F100 that has a replaced engine. I think that it is a 230,but it could be a 300. I bought rebuilt carb and when I removed my existing carb I realized they were different. Mine is I found out a Holley 1940 and the one that I bought is an Autolite 1100.

It bolted up and the linkage, fuel and vacuum lines all were in the same place. I can't get the engine to run. It will start but not run.

I was on a mustang site and they were talking about matching the dist. to the holley. Can any one give me any information about this.
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FORD used the LOAD-O-MATIC feature on EDIT- Light Truck six cylinder engines until 1967. The carb style and dist style must match. Get the exact replacement for the take-off carb or you will have to go to a later (68/ ) distributor.

s-l500.jpg


Do you see the SPARK CONTROL VALVE to the left of the fuel inlet? Is that what your take-off looks like?

EDIT-

And it is getting fuel? You put a new fuel filter on it?
 
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Float bowl full,acc.pump seems to work, engine starts but won't run.Manual choke and pumping gas has no affect. The take off carb is a holley 1940 like the one pictured. When I put it back on the motor will run. Seems that I should rebuild my Holley.
 
2loud2old said:
Float bowl full,acc.pump seems to work, engine starts but won't run.Manual choke and pumping gas has no affect. The take off carb is a holley 1940 like the one pictured. When I put it back on the motor will run.

Seems that I should rebuild my Holley.
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The quality of today's rebuilds is very questionable. There is no reason you cannot do it yourself and there is a lot of help on the net with carb specialty shops. Just be sure to buy a quality kit.
 
Disassembled the 1100 gave it a good cleaning with carb cleaner. Sprayed every hole and any thing I could take apart. Put it back on the truck and the darn engine fired right up.Shut it off, tightened the air cleaner,collected my tools and closed the hood. Prepared to drive to the gas station to fill the fuel tank. Opened garage door turned the ignition key and heard a grinding sound! Darn bendix went out. Fortunately the truck was still in my garage.
 
2loud2old said:
Disassembled the 1100 gave it a good cleaning with carb cleaner. Sprayed every hole and any thing I could take apart. Put it back on the truck and the darn engine fired right up.Shut it off, tightened the air cleaner,collected my tools and closed the hood. Prepared to drive to the gas station to fill the fuel tank. Opened garage door turned the ignition key and heard a grinding sound! Darn bendix went out. Fortunately the truck was still in my garage.
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Repaired cars for 40+yrs. and ran into things like that too many time. Hated to tell the customer he needed more (usually something not related to original repair) and some would get POed.
Way back then people would already had their fingers in it and you had to unfix what they did. After you got that straightened out the original problem would show up. After you informed them what it needed you usually got into some interesting arguments with them. Glad I'm retired.
 
I didn't read all the reply's so forgive me if I repeat something already stated above.
First, I would check what engine you really have. A '65 F100 might have had a 240 I-block 6 with the mechanical advance distributor. The carburetor needs to be matched to the distributor type.
Don't let the mounting arrangement of the carburator fool you. Just because it fits doesn't mean anything. There are many different models and variations of Holley and autolite 1bbl carbs that will mount on many years of different 6-cyl engines and often look similar on the outside too.
If you have the mech advance distributor, the carb should have the venturi vacuum routed separately from the ported vacuum (not internally connected). And, the carb should probably also have the spark control valve.
But someone may have swapped the engine and even if they didn't, there may have been modifications to ignition & carb that need to be investigated to make sure you have matching systems that are designed to work together.
 
LOAD-O-MATIC was used on LT 6-cylinders until 1968 when FORD went to a mechanical/vacuum advance distributor.
 
LOWRIDER said:
Way back then people would already had their fingers in it and you had to unfix what they did. After you got that straightened out the original problem would show up. After you informed them what it needed you usually got into some interesting arguments with them. Glad I'm retired.
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How true. I spent more time going over previous work or someone that sourced parts from a box store.

"It has a lifetime warranty!"

Yeah, but how many times do you want to replace it?
 
The 240 has one groove in the vibration damper, with holes to bolt on more. The 300, has three grooves. The 240 was available in full sized autos, the 300 only in trucks.
 
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