Knock Knock (again)

Fred K-OR

Well-known member
Sorry to say the earlier comments I made about solving my Knock Knock problem did not solve the problem. Within a short period of time running around, the old knock came back.

So I took things apart again-carb off, manifold off, valve plate cover off and checked things out again. Checked the valve clearance on the tappets and things seemed to be about the same as there were when I worked on them before.

But when I was checking things, I was turning the engine back and forth with the timing wrench to get the valves right in the correct spot. When doing this I discovered old valve # 6 giving up a "click". It would happen when I would move the engine back and forth with the timing wrench when I had the tappet to the highest point (valve completely open). I would move the engine, the tappet would twist around and "click". I did this a number of times and the same thing happened.

So----not knowing anything about what I was suppose to do in a situation like this, I figured I would adjust #6 tappet. So I set it a little tighter(closer together). Well, trying my procedure mentioned above (using the timing wrench) wow-- the "click" stopped! The tappet still turned around as I moved the engine but the click seems to be gone!

So--- help again. Anyone have a similar experience with this type of situation? Am I dreaming that I have solved my "click" problem? Any other comments that may set me straight? Please help if all this rambling makes sense and what I did is a valid fix.

Thanks again.
 
Marvel Mystery Oil in fuel.!!! Lubrication!!! Ethanol Gas is Dry as you may know! Sounds like you fixed it! Did you drive it yet? How tight is tight?
 

Attachments

  • walter dripping nose.jpg
    walter dripping nose.jpg
    19 KB · Views: 13
I set it at .016. It was at about .020. Now it seems to not click when I turn engine with timing wrench.

Now I am waiting to get another manifold before putting it back together to see how it works.
 
is the oil dip tray loose in the oil pan, sometimes they pop out a bit and the lower end of the connecting rod may be hitting it.
 
Seems like it still has too much clearance. Check a good source for the correct clearance. Mine are set quite a bit closer and I have had no problems.
 
so the tappet is rotating in its hole? Doesn't seem right - only way that would happen is if the cam lobe or tappet is worn uneven / not parallel to each other.

Intake valves ideally would be .013" and exhaust .015"

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ruleofnine.htm

I set mine at those specs and runs great.

I have heard a dip tray get loose - made an intermittent metallic sheetmetal clicking noise as it got loose near the front of the engine. Coulda sworn it was plunger noise or gear slop. Would only make noise upon hard deceleration or fast idle haha
 
Last edited:
"so the tappet is rotating in its hole? Doesn't seem right - only way that would happen is if the cam lobe or tappet is worn uneven / not parallel to each other."

I was wondering about something like this sort of thing happening. Does it cause major problems as times go on?
 
Tappets need to rotate as the cam turns or they will wear a concave line across where the lobe strike the face of the tappet.
 
Tappets need to rotate as the cam turns or they will wear a concave line across where the lobe strike the face of the tappet.

Tom, thanks for the info. I did notice that a number of them did rotate as I turned the engine around.

But the thing that seemed strange is that the #6 did rotate but as it rotated around it "clicked". And I would rotate the engine back and forth with the timing wrench, and it would "click" each time I went back and forth. Is there something that would cause this or am I "hearing things"? I am far from an expert on these things and hope I am saying something that makes sense to someone.
 
If adj the clearance to .016 got rid of the click why would you even entertain the thought of ck'ng the dipper tray??
Paul in CT
 
so the tappet is rotating in its hole? Doesn't seem right - only way that would happen is if the cam lobe or tappet is worn uneven / not parallel to each other.

Intake valves ideally would be .013" and exhaust .015"

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ruleofnine.htm

I set mine at those specs and runs great.

I have heard a dip tray get loose - made an intermittent metallic sheetmetal clicking noise as it got loose near the front of the engine. Coulda sworn it was plunger noise or gear slop. Would only make noise upon hard deceleration or fast idle haha
The lifters (tappets) should always rotate when the cam is turned. If they don't, the cam is ground incorrectly or worn out.
 
The click might be caused by a valve hanging up slightly, then letting go. I'd run some MMO in your gas and a can of Sea Foam in the oil, or a can of Sea Foam in both gas and oil to see if that helps. It sure fixed an Olds I once bought cheap due to clicking tappets.
 
Back
Top