Remote Oil Filter Modification

[GOSFAST]

Just want to place a "tip" here with respect to the oil system modification (necessary to be able to use a remote mounted filter), for anyone considering rebuilding their Flathead have the mod done whether or not you are planning the remote filter. It cannot be done after the fact.

Am in the middle of talks today with a "potential" new customer where all his machining has been already finished (by another shop) and is now asking us to assemble it with a remote filter.

The mod needs to be done way beforehand to have it correct! If you decide against the filter it's simple to just "cap" it off and go forward! Having the machine work done previous you always have that option of installing the filter later.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a shot today of a forum member's 8BA block being finished up, it's a bit labor-intensive even during the course of a "conventional" build but nearly impossible when all the work has already been done??

 

[revkev6]

just curious as to what makes it impossible to do the mod while the block is still disassembled?? I'm not privy to all the details required. I haven't gotten to reading that part of JWL's book yet.

 

[V8 Bob]

Using the MCF full (100%) remote filter system requires no block machining, only a hole drilled into the side of the oil pan.

 

[grumppyoldman]

What he is trying to tell everyone the port where the filter gets it's oil supply is kinda under the firewall. It would be impossible to get to and drill the oil port, besides there would be a chance of getting shavings in the block. The port in the oil pan is a return line. Al

 

[40cpe]

It sounds to me like he is saying that it is more work to do it after the machining of the block. I hope GOSFAST will come back and clarify the correct time to do the modification and at what point it is "too late".

 

[deuce_roadster]

One other thing--I think there is an internal plug that needs to be removed as well as capping off the newly machined "IN" port if you don't want to use a remote filter.

 

[51 MERC-CT]

Yep' tips is good.
Made up a jig to locate a pilot hole, then bolted a flat plate to the intake surface to drill hole with a short pedestal drill clamped to the plate.

 

[revkev6]

Yep' tips is good.
Made up a jig to locate a pilot hole, then bolted a flat plate to the intake surface to drill hole with a short pedestal drill clamped to the plate.

in skimming through JWL's book looking at pictures, that's similar to what he did.

 

[51 MERC-CT]

in skimming through JWL's book looking at pictures, that's similar to what he did.

Guess I will have to get the book to check it out.
I suspect there are several out there that were made similar without seeing it in a book.

 

[ford38v8]

Guess I will have to get the book to check it out.
I suspect there are several out there that were made similar without seeing it in a book.

There are machinists who make jigs on a daily basis, then there are Quantum Theorists who can't visualize a jig unless they see it in a book. We all have our talents and weaknesses.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

One other thing--I think there is an internal plug that needs to be removed as well as capping off the newly machined "IN" port if you don't want to use a remote filter.

After reading Gosfast's post I thought of the same thing you mention. There was a post here some time back where a member had his block all machined and ready for the remote mounted full flow oil filter, but instead of running the oil lines and plumbing the remote filter, he decided to just cap off the system by plugging the ports in the block. He then put the oil in the newly built engine, fired it up, and took his vehicle for a ride and destroyed all the bearings and possibly more on his newly built engine. I'll try to find this post and add it here later.

http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38439

FOR ANYONE PLANNING TO DO WHAT HAS BEEN SUGGESTED HERE....PLEASE BE CAREFUL TO MAKE SURE YOU WILL HAVE PROPER OIL FLOW BEFORE FIRING YOUR NEW ENGINE.

 

[ford38v8]

...FOR ANYONE PLANNING TO DO WHAT HAS BEEN SUGGESTED HERE....PLEASE BE CAREFUL TO MAKE SURE YOU WILL HAVE PROPER OIL FLOW BEFORE FIRING YOUR NEW ENGINE.

John, Sounds like you know someone who turned the fire on under an empty coffee pot?

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

John, Sounds like you know someone who turned the fire on under an empty coffee pot?

LOL Alan, I do know someone who frequently forgets to turn their coffee pot off after taking the last cup.....just ask my wife, she'll tell you all about that guy

PS...found that old post and added the URL in my post above.

 

[Lawrie]

Another version,home made.but a lot more work,
Lawrie

 

[john in illinois]

Another thing to watch is the hose connections. If you get the enginr pressure out hose connected to the wrong filter port you will have oil pressure but the drain back valve in the filter will stop oil from getting to bearings.

Someone posted about that happening also. Ruined engine on a test drive. I put a temporary oil pressure gage on the filter outlet to make sure it worked right at first start up.

John

 

[Ol' Ron]

I refer to this as the $.2 5 oil filter modification. Because besides the oilfilter and hoses, it only cost $.25 for a grub screw. Some people refer it to the 95% system. It was originally require by the military for all engines to have a Pater air cleaner and filtered oil, after the war in North Africa. We in the US didn't comply with that tho. Thay's why all the 59 blocks have the bung on the back. I first saw this when I was racing and a fellow had this mod on his engine. At the time we were running the hi oil pressure and destroying bearings, as the oil was full of baring flakes, but the filters filtered them out. After we broke a crank do to cavitation of the filitte radius of the crank ( say that after a few beers) WE dropped the oil pressure to a more reasonable 40/50 lbs and the bottom ends lasted for ever.. I have to thank the Canadians for coming up with such a practical inexpensive way to save our Flatheads. Now, I lost the bearings in a new engine by hooking up the filter backward. The gauge said 50 lbs, but thay was the output ogf the pump. The engine got nothing.

 

[40cpe]

When I first connected the oil pressure gauge to my rebuilt engine with the "95 percent" filter, I used the spare block port on the pump side of the filter. Some discussions here on the 'Barn mentioned the 10# bypass valve built into the FL1A filters. I still had my engine on a run-in stand so I drilled/tapped the output side of the filter for a oil gauge fitting. I ran the engine and noted the pressure on the input side, then switched to the output side and the pressure read 10# less on the output side. This was using 10w30 oil on a cold start-up and the readings were 55# vs 45# at idle. I don't know if there is that much difference on hot oil. I have often wondered but haven't gone to the trouble of plumbing a second gauge since the engine is in the car.

 

[tubman]

I hate to be a wet blanket, but after reading the thread "Frank Miller" started about "Oil debate numbers" and seeing the results he and "Ross F-1" got when they they had their oil professionally analyzed, I don't see how you can improve on a stock bypass filter. I have thought for years that with the maintenance schedules and the conditions under which the vast majority of our cars are used, a bypass system is superior to a full flow system simply because it can filter out finer particles.

 

[Talkwrench]

Its the amount of metal you put into the engine while doing the drilling and taping...

 

[Ronnieroadster]

Using the MCF full (100%) remote filter system requires no block machining, only a hole drilled into the side of the oil pan.

That system works well until the oil line inside the pan comes off the pump. Then you have junk thats happened to A few fellows using the MCF system.
So be very careful.