Teflon Tie Rod Ball Seats

IMHO, it all depends on your balls (keep your mind out of the gutter!!), --steering arms & pitman arm. If they are new and polished, they are a huge improvement yet if the balls are worn or rough, you will not see much of an improvement and the longetivity will not be long. We generally install 12-15 sets a year, ...and have for many years now, and they have a good track record in our eyes.

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I'm welding new SS balls on the spindle arms. I'm also putting on a brand new shortened pitman arm. It sounds like teflon is the way to go.
 
I've had them on the S/W sedan for 26K miles/5 years. With the balls new and polished, they are a great improvement and last well. Rough or worn balls will tear them up pronto and waste your money. Brent's suggestions are right on. Do it right and do it once.
 
I've had them for a couple of years and several thousand miles. They seem fine. Steering balls are in good shape.

Dick
 
I rebuilt my front end on my pickup about 12 years ago, new balls and used the Teflon cups. Has been fine ever since.
This year I rebuilt my 31 slant town sedan and did the same new balls and Teflon cups.
For me this is the only way to go if your are planning on building the front end.
Regards,
herb
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
IMHO, it all depends on your balls (keep your mind out of the gutter!!), --steering arms & pitman arm. If they are new and polished, they are a huge improvement yet if the balls are worn or rough, you will not see much of an improvement and the longetivity will not be long. We generally install 12-15 sets a year, ...and have for many years now, and they have a good track record in our eyes.

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What do you use to polish the steering arm balls?
 
I put them in my Victoria around 20 years ago and them work just fine. I did at the time change steering arms to the one from A&L. the steering arms I had in there before were the type that you cut the ball off drill a hole in the arms and welded them in from the back side. I never had trouble with them. I just did not like the fix.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
3,000 grit wet or dry sandpaper.
Bill Slick
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I first sanded my new balls with 220 grit sandpaper and then 500 grit. After that I polished them on my buffer with emery. They came out looking like chrome. My teflon seats should last for ever.
 
We opened up the drag link and found the teflon seats mangled and not sure why. The balls were fine. Some say not to grease the teflon. Anyway, they were removed and metal seats , new springs, etc. we had on hand were installed with the slotted ends not over tightened and to just allow the cotters to work. Compressing the spring lengths about 25% allowed this to occur with no slop in the drag link with easy motion. Our suspicion is the teflon had been installed for a long time, and like the FAM donuts, can degrade over time. Perhaps periodic replacement is necessary?
 
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I install them all the time on front end rebuilds and they are the way to go. I of course still assemble and use grease on them and use rebuilt arms from A&L or good originals that are still round. I probably do 12-20 sets a year as well and they do well. Brattons and Snyders kits are different.. I prefer Snyders but Brattons is good as well.

Steering arm assembly's can be done on the bend and installed with the arms as a unit.
Larry Shepard
 
larrys40 said:
I install them all the time on front end rebuilds and they are the way to go. I of course still assemble and use grease on them and use rebuilt arms from A&L or good originals that are still round. I probably do 12-20 sets a year as well and they do well. Brattons and Snyders kits are different.. I prefer Snyders but Brattons is good as well.

Steering arm assembly's can be done on the bend and installed with the arms as a unit.
Larry Shepard
Click to expand...

What is the difference between Snyders and Brattons kits?
 
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