tube shocks for a 34 tudor

Vintage parts is a part of the Hoffman group.
Bad low quality parts.
You are better buying the shock kit from Pete and Jakes.
 
Thanks Steve , The P & J kits look exactly like the vintage but slightly less expensive .
I am curious how the lower ends fasten ? Must slide over the existing posts but what secures them from shucking fore & aft ?
 
This style of lower mount requires you to remove the hanger bolts and replacing them with a longer one.

NOTE:
Stock perch is too short, must use #1042.
• Extra long threaded stud fits any axle thickness (2″ or 2 1/4″).
• Allows use of bolt-on lower shock mount #1067.
• Eye is 3/4″ diameter.
 

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Some of this is going to depend on how stock you are wanting to keep the front end. I know that the tube shocks are not original, but you can use later model parts or make them look like later models. The Pete and Jack ones that require the new perch bolts are not going to look stock. Many ways to go about the shock conversion, if you are interested in other approaches there have been several past threads on the topic.
 
If you use tube shocks jack one side of the frame up until the wheels come
off the ground. Measure the length of where the shock mounts are or will
be. Lower the car all the way down and measure where the shock mount will
be at that point This is close to the stroke required for the tube shocks. Add
about 2 or 3"s and this will be the stroke needed. If the stroke is not log enough
it could pull the shocks apart. Also on rear shocks you don't want to much of
an angle or it will shove the body to the right and left. I have seen this were it
moved the body and frame far enough the old mounts cut into the tire. G.M.
 
This is probably unnecessary, but it should be remembered that changing perch bolts can sometimes (?) be a daunting task.:(
 
Thanks guys --great info !
Tubman---yes , I think not a walk in the park !
When younger , I tackled almost any auto related task , but now @ 78 , not so anxious to dig out the creeper .
 
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