Sunday Project-Rear Spring Installation Issue

California Charlie

Senior Member
Hi Guys,

My 31 Model A Ford restoration work is challenging my Backyard Mechanic Title.

I have a rear spring installation question which I'm not sure if I'm "Okay" with or I need to re-address with taking some further action.

I purchased a new 10 leaf rear spring from Brattons, along with Sedan rear spring brackets for a 10 leaf spring, and new U-Bolts.

I also purchased Brattons rear spring spreader which made life a little easier and safer when I disassembled the new spring to bevel the leaf edges and lubricate each leaf.

During the rear spring installation process I've reached a point where I'm meeting a lot of wrench resistance in tightening the U-Bolts. I feel if I go any further with trying to tighten the bolts the spring brackets will break. I'm approximately 1/4" from having the brackets touching the bottom of the rear frame.

The center leaf spring bolt is fully inserted into the center of the frame.

Has anyone run across this issue, or can tell be if they feel I can insert a pin and cut off the excess of the U-Bolts. Call this part of my restoration project complete.

Thanks for anyone's advice on this matter.

 

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Wow, those U-bolts are wayyyy too long. Are you sure you ordered the correct ones? That gap you are concerned with, I believe is suppose to be there.
 
The rear spring spreader is used to spread the spring in order to attach your spring shackles to the perches on your rear axle. I've done this in the past either with the spring bolted to the rear cross member, or not. Works either way. Am I missing something?
 

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If the part under the spring is a repo, it's cast iron, not forged as original, and will break if the nuts are tightened very much.
 
My guess is that you have some incorrect or poorly manufactured parts. If I remember correctly the A 5708 plate came with different heights in the center to allow for different thickness of spring packs. The Green Bible only shows one but they got sloppy as time went on. For example the roadster only had seven leafs and the plate was higher in the center. If you have some plates for a roadster the result would be what I think I see in your picture. Also if your reproduction spring was thicker than the original you would get what you show in the picture.

Charlie Stephens
 
Looks ok to me. The pads on the cross piece are holding the spring in place and should have a gap on the ends, not resting on the bottom of the cross member. Your U-bolts however are a different matter. Even if they are cut back, they are way long to start with plus you will still have to drill your cotter pin hole, this is not the place for lock washers, too much flex.
 
Looks ok to me. The pads on the cross piece are holding the spring in place and should have a gap on the ends, not resting on the bottom of the cross member. Your U-bolts however are a different matter. Even if they are cut back, they are way long to start with plus you will still have to drill your cotter pin hole, this is not the place for lock washers, too much flex.

The U-Bolts were ordered through Brattons with a note they are made to be cut off and drilled for a pin.
 
My guess is that you have some incorrect or poorly manufactured parts. If I remember correctly the A 5708 plate came with different heights in the center to allow for different thickness of spring packs. The Green Bible only shows one but they got sloppy as time went on. For example the roadster only had seven leafs and the plate was higher in the center. If you have some plates for a roadster the result would be what I think I see in your picture. Also if your reproduction spring was thicker than the original you would get what you show in the picture.

Charlie Stephens

I ordered the brackets from Brattons which said they were specifically for the 10 leaf rear spring and not for the smaller spring.
 
Is the spring's center bolt "in" the hole in the frame on the top?? What happened to your original plates and U bolts??
Paul in CT
 
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