Clutch problem

M

Mamel

Member
Hello guy's

Today I was the first time firing up my model A with an overhauled engine. Took it for a drive and when I let go of the clutch the car shocked a lot same feeling like you where learning to drive stick for the first time.

I thought that the clutch adjustment on the pedal was maybe to close that the clutch would ingage a bit when letting go of the clutch pedal. Adjusted it to 1,18" (3cm), but still dies the same thing.

I bought the engine 6-7months ago and the gentlemen overhauled the engine almost a year before.


Does anybody have an idea?
 
What clutch disk are you using ? How familiar are you with driving these monsters ?

The amount of free-play should not really have much to do with your issue unless I'm missing something. I use 1.5-2.0" , most folks use less, but, as long as there is some so the bearing isn't spinning is really all that matters.
 
Check you engine mounts to make sure the engine is staying put.
Also, make sure you dont have a broken rear spring shackle.
 
I would have adjusted the clutch fingers in the pressure plate to make sure they are all even. See Les Andrews book for details.
This is imperative for a smooth clutch ....of course all else done as well including surfaced flywheel and rebuilt pressure plate. Yes the pressure plate still needs adjusting once bolted one the flywheel.
Larry Shepard
 
My 29 Tudor shook like a paint mixer, even after trying slow or fast engagement, and trying to slip the clutch to burn off oil, if it had any on the lining. I lightly sanded the flywheel, replaced the disc with a new one, and changed the pressure place with another good used one. I also dialed in the flywheel cover at the same time. It's now smooth as an automatic. My disc and pressure plate both looked perfect, but I covered all bases, so I didn't have to do the job twice.

As Larry said, the 6 fingers must also be even. I installed a new clutch disc and pressure plate for a customer, and the fingers were quite a bit off, but very easy to adjust, as the new one had self locking nuts with nylon.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
My 29 Tudor shook like a paint mixer, even after trying slow or fast engagement, and trying to slip the clutch to burn off oil, if it had any on the lining. I lightly sanded the flywheel, replaced the disc with a new one, and changed the pressure place with another good used one. I also dialed in the flywheel cover at the same time. It's now smooth as an automatic. My disc and pressure plate both looked perfect, but I covered all bases, so I didn't have to do the job twice.

As Larry said, the 6 fingers must also be even. I installed a new clutch disc and pressure plate for a customer, and the fingers were quite a bit off, but very easy to adjust, as the new one had self locking nuts with nylon.
Click to expand...

Is it possible to adjusted the fingers with the engine connected to the transmission? I really do not want to pull the engine again.
 
Yes, you can adjust the fingers while everything is installed. The procedure can be written if you need it.

The problem, if it is a chatter, can also be the flywheel or clutch cover/bellhousing.

I wish you described your problem better. I didn't realize you just have a chatter issue.
 
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Patrick L. said:
Yes, you can adjust the fingers while everything is installed. The procedure can be written if you need it.

The problem, if it is a chatter, can also be the flywheel or clutch cover/bellhousing.

I wish you described your problem better. I didn't realize you just have a chatter issue.
Click to expand...


I am sorry English is not my mother tongue, I searched chattering because I didn't know the term. And I think that that is the problem I am having.

Can you write the proces down for adjusting the fingers?
 
The attached article might be of help. It is possible to make the adjustment through the inspection window in the bell housing. However, it is much easier to make the adjustment before the transmission is installed.

Tom Endy
 

Attachments

Mamel said:
I am sorry English is not my mother tongue, I searched chattering because I didn't know the term. And I think that that is the problem I am having.

Can you write the proces down for adjusting the fingers?
Click to expand...

I haven't adjusted the fingers while the ****** is in place, and If you have the original pressure plate with the nuts staked into the screw slots, I'd think it would be very difficult to get the nuts to turn.

What you can do is remove the throw out bearing spring, so the weight of the clutch pedal will make the T/O bearing rest against the fingers, then use a thin feeler gauge to see if they all feel the same pressure against the bearing. With a straight edge across the center hole of the pressure plate, the 6 fingers should be in 11/16". I'd say if they 5/8" to 3/4", you'll get by OK as long as all 6 fingers are within a few thousandths of the same measurement.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I haven't adjusted the fingers while the ****** is in place, and If you have the original pressure plate with the nuts staked into the screw slots, I'd think it would be very difficult to get the nuts to turn.

What you can do is remove the throw out bearing spring, so the weight of the clutch pedal will make the T/O bearing rest against the fingers, then use a thin feeler gauge to see if they all feel the same pressure against the bearing. With a straight edge across the center hole of the pressure plate, the 6 fingers should be in 11/16". I'd say if they 5/8" to 3/4", you'll get by OK as long as all 6 fingers are within a few thousandths of the same measurement.
Click to expand...

Okay thank you I will check this tomorrow.
 
Mamel said:
I am very sorry English is not my mother tongue, can you discribe chatter issue?
Click to expand...



Chatter is a shudder/shaking upon letting out the clutch pedal which is usually caused by a warped flywheel, out of adjustment pressure plate, bad disk, or, misaligned clutch cover.

Its worth spending some time scraping your knuckles trying to adjust the pressure plate to see what happens before removing the rear end/driveline and setting the flywheel/clutch on a bench.
 
Before you take your car apart, at least have someone stand on the side of the car as you make it chatter. They may see something that might help.
 
Yes it can be done in a car. I have done it several times. The process I use is to use a socket on a string ( so you don't drop it and can drop in place) and a feeler gauge and you will set the distance betweeen the throwout bearing surface and the finger. It will vary depending on bearing and car.. and I can'r remember what socket size I used last time so you might start with a 1/2 inch or 9/16 may get you in the ballpark.

Rotate engine around ( helps to have a helper) and mark each one as you do it.
Doesn't take too long but is worth a shot to see if that improves it. You will have to do a final adjust on your freeplay I'm sure. Try to calcutate out the socket diameter to coincide with an 11/16-3/4 top of clutch cover to finger distance taking into account the location of the throwout bearing. A little calculating and careful setting should do it. Maybe someone has the exact size at hand although I think it may vary.

It's worth a shot!
Larry Shepard
 
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