carb delima on a '56 Ford intake

[willowbilly3]

In my opinion, those cheap manual conversions are junk. Unless you take the fast idle cam and weld up the notches so it is just a ramp like factory manual chokes use. Problem with the stepped fast idle, is the first time you pull the choke without depressing the gas pedal, all that janky crap shifts or the cable slides in the holder and then it don't work right until you fix it. It's far easier to make an auto choke work right

 

[dmsfrr]

Odd, the choke plumbing on my sedan looks nothing like this. Is this T-Bird specific? My car is an early 56 built on 10/21/55.

There's another style 4bbl teapot carb & intake setup.
Maybe yours is like the example photo below...?
Could you post a photo of the choke side of your carb & intake manifold?
Having the casting number from the top rear would help too.

T-Bird specific or 'full sized' car??? Yes some things were originally built that way.
It's my impression that the hot air choke tubes on the '56/'57 T-Birds were most often on the intake manifold... not over the passenger side valve cover from the exh manif, those appear more often on the full sized cars of the same and later years. But that may depend on the original option package and what has happened since new.
Over the last 60ish years almost anything could, and probably has, been done by previous owners and mechanics working under the hood of most any car.
.

 

[Bleach]

No that's not what I have. I'll take a photo of it the next chance I have. They're sitting on a shelf after swapping to a 57 carb and manifold on my car.

 

[Bleach]

OK, my manifold looks like the first set of photos you posted except without the pipes. One end looks like it was pinched off on mine. Whether this was done at the factory or by some mechanic later. The other side below the choke tube had a rectangular brass fitting that I transferred to the 57 manifold.

 

[dmsfrr]

The tube & elbow fitting that is/was on the passenger side of yours is more original than the photo I found. The tube on the drivers side of yours that was broken off drew air from somewhere inside the air cleaner or top of the carb(? IDK) so being missing wouldn't have had too much effect on things. For '57 that outside tube was replaced with a small mushroom shaped inlet cap.

.

 

[Bleach]

I'll have to check out the stub of the tube a little better as well as the air cleaner. This came off a car with under 31K original miles. I swapped it out because of too many issues with the teapot. Once it caused a fire and then another time it came real close to starting another fire. I was lucky I had a fire extinguisher so there wasn't any real damage.
I wanted something more reliable and less dangerous.The 57 B manifold I have now has that cap you mention.

 

[Smoke.eater]

Gents, Im new to this car and the Teapot. They have the original teapot off and a different carb on in now. I was thinking of going as original as humanly possible with this car. would it be a bad idea to put the teapot back on? I have read both good and bad experiences with that carb. Its been hard to find good pictures so far of how it all is supposed to be from factory. my intake manifold has plug where that tubing is in the pictures above and just the hose from the top of the exhaust manifold which is broke and the tube just pushed in place.

 

[dmsfrr]

.

Gents, Im new to this car and the Teapot. They have the original teapot off and a different carb on in now. I was thinking of going as original as humanly possible with this car. would it be a bad idea to put the teapot back on? I have read both good and bad experiences with that carb. Its been hard to find good pictures so far of how it all is supposed to be from factory. my intake manifold has plug where that tubing is in the pictures above and just the hose from the top of the exhaust manifold which is broke and the tube just pushed in place.

It depends on which carbs and intake manifold you have now, how much repair they need and how you want to use the car.
A better description or photos of what you have could help. What is the casting number across the top rear of the intake manifold? ECZ-9424-A or ECG-9424-A ?
The oem '55, '56 and '57+ carb, intake and distributor setups changed each year and they aren't easily interchangeable between years (except as a full set).
In some/many cases owners change to the '57+ setup.

Does your distributor look like this one?

 

[Smoke.eater]

Here is some pictures,let me know if these help or. It for I can take more

 

[dmsfrr]

Here is some pictures,let me know if these help or. It for I can take more

Ok, those are the (one yr only) '56 intake manifold and vacuum adv. (only) distributor.
The hassle is that dual timing advance canister needs the matched pressure from an original '56 teapot carb to control the timing properly. The chances of another type/brand of carb keeping the dist timing right are not impossible, but slim at best.
If the rubber diaphragms in the dual adv canister are still good, the simplest solution is to rebuild the original '56 carb, or one just like it if yours is too far gone.
If a different/newer carb is used, a '57-'62 distributor should be used to keep the timing adv right. An adapter to the smaller carb bolt pattern of the intake manif will most likely be needed.

It's more work (that could be done in the future) but if you have any connections for y-block parts you may consider the '57 style ECZ "B" intake manifold. The air flow is better and the carb bolt pattern is much more common.

 

[willowbilly3]

I'm inclined to agree except that when it's set so it's just opened fully, it won't close enough. It is really hard to start the first time unless the choke is fully closed. It will start, but it takes a lot of pumping the accelerator and grinding the starter. A lot.......... If it's fully choked, it starts right up.
Really frustrating.
Thanks for the suggestion
Tom

A lot of pumping is not good. It washes down cylinder walls and dilutes the oil

 

[scicala]

My 2 cents worth is to either pull the intake manifold and replace the hot air tube in the exhaust crossover of the manifold and get new left and right side hot air tubes (all available online), then rebuild the original teapot carb (I can help if needed), or plug both the left and right holes on the intake for the hot air tube, and put an electric heated black choke cap on the teapot carb. Also available online for $15 to $20.
Changing to a more modern carb just sets off a chain reaction of changing other parts, like the distributor. Keeping the teapot carb is the cheapest and still original I my mind. All of the horror story's about teapot carbs come from people that shouldn't be working on them.

Sal

 

[Smoke.eater]

Ok, those are the (one yr only) '56 intake manifold and vacuum adv. (only) distributor.
The hassle is that dual timing advance canister needs the matched pressure from an original '56 teapot carb to control the timing properly. The chances of another type/brand of carb keeping the dist timing right are not impossible, but slim at best.
If the rubber diaphragms in the dual adv canister are still good, the simplest solution is to rebuild the original '56 carb, or one just like it if yours is too far gone.
If a different/newer carb is used, a '57-'62 distributor should be used to keep the timing adv right. An adapter to the smaller carb bolt pattern of the intake manif will most likely be needed.

It's more work (that could be done in the future) but if you have any connections for y-block parts you may consider the '57 style ECZ "B" intake manifold. The air flow is better and the carb bolt pattern is much more common.

I'm gonna try to utilize the stock components, I'll have someone else mess with the carb since it's been over 15+ years that I messed with even a small engines carb. What they have now is a later model carb on a home made spacer that is crude at best. It fires up first try with 1-2 pumps of the pedal and the idle isn't too bad.

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[KULTULZ]

I'm gonna try to utilize the stock components, I'll have someone else mess with the carb since it's been over 15+ years that I messed with even a small engines carb.

What they have now is a later model carb on a home made spacer that is crude at best. It fires up first try with 1-2 pumps of the pedal and the idle isn't too bad.

Interesting upgrade. A 2150 MOTORCRAFT 2V with a EDIT- hot air choke with an electric assist.

The fabricator has the ported vacuum signal going to the rear diaphram of the 56 specific dual diaphram LOM distributor and I also see another tube coming off the front diaphram and assume it is going to a manifold vacuum source.

It has to accelerate horribly. For it to run somewhat decently (IMO) would require a 57/ distributor (with current carb).

Any vacuum leakage with that carb adapter?

Do you want originality or just operational? 292 or 312?

 

[Smoke.eater]

Interesting upgrade. A 2150 MOTORCRAFT 2V with an electric assist choke.

The fabricator has the ported vacuum signal going to the rear diaphram of the 56 specific dual diaphram LOM distributor and I also see another tube coming off the front diaphram and assume it is going to a manifold vacuum source.

It has to accelerate horribly. For it to run somewhat decently (IMO) would require a 57/ distributor (with current carb).

Any vacuum leakage with that carb adapter?

Do you want originality or just operational? 292 or 312?

The acceleration is not the best. 292. I would like it to be as original as possible,I still haven’t gotten the teapot rebuilt yet and may be some time till I do. So I’ll possibly be leaving this carb on for a little while,so operational is what I’m looking at for now. I changed the vacuum line from the fuel pump( the others look to be fine but I’m going to change them out just to be sure)


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[KULTULZ]

You might want to consider a distributor upgrade (57 up) for the interim as this will give the engine full mechanical/vacuum advance and make the engine come alive.

There is no meaningful advance feature(s) as it is now.

Just make sure anything taken off (especially the dist) is saved in a special box.

 

[KULTULZ]

The carb seems to work fine, it's the choke that's the problem. When I set it so it closes when cold, it won't open far enough when warm, and when I set it open when the engine is hot, it won't close when it gets cold.

The spring seems to be ok, and it opens and closes partially, but not far enough. Maybe I'll look for a new or different spring.

Tom

Is this a FOM (A/T)?

See Ill's Below-

See 1956 Service Manual to adjust TRANS/TVS linkage.

 

[jhljr44@yahoo.com]

You need to make sure the heat pickup tube going to the carb has a heat resistant covering, tube or wrap to keep the cool fan air from cooling it too much. I had the same problem when I changed carbs and found I forgot to put the asbestos covering back over the tube.