Rebuilt 59AB Heating Problem

F

Fixncats

Junior Member
Hi Ford Barn, I've finished the rebuild of my 59 AB in my 36. First start up I was able to run it 10-15 min before it reached 200 degrees and climbing. I shut it down. I then removed the 160 degree thermostats and started it with the same results, lots of flow in the top tank. This was a complete rebuild with stock bore, stock distributer, new water pumps, re-cored radiator, Max 1 cam. It runs and sounds good. If I remember correctly the heads can be installed on either side and the head gaskets can only be installed one way. This leaves me thinking combustion in the cooling system? I would appreciate any ideas. Thank you
 
Look in the top tank when running for bubbles,give it a blip on the throtle also while looking in for the bubbles.
Lawrie
 
Fixncats, I'm going through the same thing right now. Fresh 59A engine. Temp climbing to over 200 on a drive. Here is what I have done:

Fresh rebuild 59A engine/stock
Bob Shewman's thermostats
Skips water pumps
skips coil
Bubba crab distributor
Charlie Schwendler fuel pump and carburetor

The timing is fine not a problem as car starts, runs, drives great. I got a combustion gas test kit from NAPA, indicates no compression gases present in coolant. Now, the only thing I have not done is have the radiator checked. I'm pulling it out and sending it to a shop for a cleaning or re-core. Also, going to get a new 4lb radiator cap.

It's frustrating me, as this is the only flathead V8 I have ever had a problem with running too hot.
 
The first thing I would check is the distributor for proper spark advance. Since there are no timing marks, it is hard to do on the engine. Probably need to remove the distributor and have it checked on a distributor machine. Even though the engine starts and runs fine does not mean the timing is correct.
 
Remove the belt, remove the upper hoses from the head. Fill the water necks in the head to within 1/4 " or so from the top. Start the engine and look for bubbles in the water necks.
 
flatjack9 said:
The first thing I would check is the distributor for proper spark advance. Since there are no timing marks, it is hard to do on the engine. Probably need to remove the distributor and have it checked on a distributor machine. Even though the engine starts and runs fine does not mean the timing is correct.
Click to expand...

Bubba had this distributor on his distributor machine. I assume his work is good. I suppose I could pull it off and have it rechecked but we aren't talking about many miles on it.
 
Ken/Alabama said:
Remove the belt, remove the upper hoses from the head. Fill the water necks in the head to within 1/4 " or so from the top. Start the engine and look for bubbles in the water necks.
Click to expand...

I can do that. Would the compression gas test not have indicated the same thing? The fluid stayed blue and did not change to a yellow or green color.
 
Hi Guys, Thank you for everybody's advice. I believe timing is my problem. When I had the engine out I cleaned and set the points. I also set the timing adjustment in the center, thinking I would just set it be ear. I also replaced a broken timing advance spring. So tonight after work I didn't have time to pull the distributer and check it so I just advanced the timing and started it. My mechanical temp gauge was at 100 degrees when I started it, central California heat in the summer. I was pleased to see a difference, I ran it for 20 minutes and shut it down at 190 degrees. I'm hopeful with the distributor and advance set up correctly, it should be good.
 
Keep running the engine without a load on it and you may be trying to solve a ring problem next.
 
ive had something similar happen to my engine, run it in the garage it was boiling over however now ive got just a few miles on it things seem to have settled down. take the car for a drive and see how you get on with air going through the radiator? remember your engine is new and everything will still be tight.
 
Seth Swoboda said:
I can do that. Would the compression gas test not have indicated the same thing? The fluid stayed blue and did not change to a yellow or green color.
Click to expand...

I tried the gas tester on my 36 engine, no color change, but do have a few bubbles in water necks, along with 2 cleaner than other sparkplugs. Replace headgasket? Leaking studs?
 
I bake clean all my blocks before rebuilding. Also, use a long screw driver to dig out the "stuff" stuck in the bottom of the castings. Roll it around on a piece of plywood.
 
Seth, I'm a complete rookie and have never done anything beyond minor fixes so please don't take offense at my question as none is intended. I'm just trying to gain knowledge. Was there a reason that you didn't have the radiator checked while rebuilding the engine? One thing I have learned from reading the Forum is that your supplier list is certainly the best there is.
 
FireEngineMike said:
Seth, I'm a complete rookie and have never done anything beyond minor fixes so please don't take offense at my question as none is intended. I'm just trying to gain knowledge. Was there a reason that you didn't have the radiator checked while rebuilding the engine? One thing I have learned from reading the Forum is that your supplier list is certainly the best there is.
Click to expand...

The car was running and driving. It had a worn out 59A with a major rear main oil leak. So I rebuilt the engine. All of my rebuilds go to a competent machinist who dips, bakes and cleans the block before machine work starts. I have the radiator out now and can see with a flashlight that some of the tubes in the top tank are plugged with what looks like a calcium crud.
 
Ol' Ron said:
I bake clean all my blocks before rebuilding. Also, use a long screw driver to dig out the "stuff" stuck in the bottom of the castings. Roll it around on a piece of plywood.
Click to expand...

Ron, my machinist goes through the entire dipping, baking and cleaning process. This is a full service professional machine shop.
 
lotsagas4u said:
I tried the gas tester on my 36 engine, no color change, but do have a few bubbles in water necks, along with 2 cleaner than other sparkplugs. Replace headgasket? Leaking studs?
Click to expand...

I have put the engine through 3 re torques. I do have several head studs weeping water. Not unusual for a flathead. Would this cause a running hot condition?
 
Unless the shop put a lot of extra effort into getting the casing sand out of the block, they may have just loosened stuff up. Just a guess.
 
JSeery said:
Keep running the engine without a load on it and you may be trying to solve a ring problem next.
Click to expand...

No ring problem. I drive it at highway speeds. I don't let it sit around and idle. We aren't talking about a boil over situation, I'd just like to move the temp gauge I have installed off the 200 mark down to 180-190.
 
I checked the head torque just now. Found a few at 50 lbs. Every stud is now torqued to 60 lbs. Radiator will get pressure and flow test tomorrow.

My apologies to Fixncats for hijacking his thread. I was just recently having a similar problem and thought I would chime in with my trouble shooting to assist.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top