No spark

K

KEN2939

Junior Member
just got a 29 A, looking to add a1931. the car I'm looking at has no spark. any thoughts what I should look for first.
 
What is the last thing(s) they did before the problem started? A friend's no spark problem turned out to be the points were so wide that they weren't closing.

Charlie Stephens
 
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If it's been a while since run, run a business card or matchbook cover (or similar) between the points, might be oxidized.
 
Hi Ken,

Per your question:

"the car I'm looking at has no spark. any thoughts what I should look for first."

You could bounce around testing connections etc., for weeks on end; or,

First? Check the battery and the battery ground.

Second? Obtain a wiring diagram to check (+) & (-) electrical continuity from the battery to the spark plugs.

Relieves depression, headaches, acid indigestion, & ends sleepless nights.
 
KEN2939 said:
just got a 29 A, looking to add a1931. the car I'm looking at has no spark. any thoughts what I should look for first.
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Jacksonlll said:
As long as the distributor rotor turns when the engine turns, don't worry about it. Easy to fix.
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If it spins be careful. If you get it started before you buy it the price could go up. You have leverage now.

Come back once you buy it, we will give you step by step instructions to get it working.
 
I'm facing a similar problem. I spent all day flushing the tank, changed the plugs, put my freshly cleaned carb on the car and it won't start. Has a new battery and turns over strong as can be, but it won't catch and run, I cleaned between the points and I pulled a plug while I hit the starter I had a friend watch for spark. She said there wasn't any. I'm open to suggestions
 
Key one, engine stopped with points open, short the points contacts on and off with a screwdriver and see if the coil wire has a hot blue spark at least 1/4" long to a head nut.
 
CB919ER said:
I want to know what all that means, but I only sort of understand
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First he meant ignition key ON...with the engine NOT running

Then take the cap off the distributor and make sure the point contacts are open....

Use a screwdriver to short across the contacts on the points, this simulates what happens when the engine is running..

The points, by opening and closing, very basically cause the coil to produce enough voltage to make the spark plugs spark.

With the large center wire from the coil held(use gloves) about 3/8" from a good ground like a head stud, you should see a hot blue spark as you repeatedly short the points with the screw driver....

If you have a spark using this method then the issue could be timing or maybe corroded point contacts or even too much or too little point gap.....there are other possibilities too...let us know what you learn...
 
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get a test light or meter and test for voltage at the coil, key, and distributor. common problems I have dealt with are bad coil bad switch and bad cable to dizzy also clean the points up.
 
Mike V.
I liked your no spark troubleshooting guide very much. Very clear and understandable. However the last sentence says, "Remove the paper from the points and see that the points are closed. You should not have 0 volts at the points." Did you mean to say you should have 0 volts?
 
1955cj5 said:
First he meant ignition key ON...with the engine NOT running

Then take the cap off the distributor and make sure the point contacts are open....

Use a screwdriver to short across the contacts on the points, this simulates what happens when the engine is running..

The points, by opening and closing, very basically cause the coil to produce enough voltage to make the spark plugs spark.

With the large center wire from the coil held(use gloves) about 3/8" from a good ground like a head stud, you should see a hot blue spark as you repeatedly short the points with the screw driver....

If you have a spark using this method then the issue could be timing or maybe corroded point contacts or even too much or too little point gap.....there are other possibilities too...let us know what you learn...
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Ok, followed the directions as best I could, points open, used a screw driver across the point (got a little spark here) and put the wire from the distributor near a head bolt and I got no spark. I have power to the points and on both legs of the coil, but nothing through the line to the distributor...
 
if its really troubling you spend about two hundred and replace all parts. I would go with buying a 10$ meter though. You dont need a meter to repair the model A ignition but it takes a
lot of the guess work out of it.
 
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mike657894 said:
if its really troubling you spend about two hundred and replace all parts. I would go with buying a 10$ meter though. You dont need a meter to repair the model A ignition but it takes a
lot of the guess work out of it.
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I have a volt meter and a Circuit tester but I don't know what to check.
 
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