Slotted eccentric/centralization adjusting rivet on Two tooth strg box

Rip

Rip

Member
[1]My slot is at 10-4 viewed standing on floor. Loosening sector housing nuts does not allow adjustment of the rivet. Rivet is stuck. How can I get it loose? (Be gentle)

Background:two tooth box. 4-6" strg wheel slop. Strg linkages tight. Box mounting tight. Box removal is not an option for me.
Completed first three adjustments per Paul Modlin article which removed binding on steering wheel so it now turns smoothly.

[2]Am confused with "the rebuilding gemmer strg box article" especially with my nearly illegible copy with figure A. Without being able to rotate the slotted rivet, I can't determine if slot shud be at figure D (vertical) or has been previously adjusted to my 10-4 position....

[3]My mind is so cluttered with info, am not sure anymore if sequence is Modlin steps 1-3 followed by eccentric rivet or just step three followed by eccentric rivet with multiple attempts.

Am frustrated, need help, Rip
 
It is unusual that the eccentric rivet is seized in the housing . A long screwdriver with the 90 degree bend in it usually does the trick . The play you have is excessive for sure and you should be able to improve it . If you remove both bolts securing the box to the frame or slacken them right off this will give you more room to get at the rivet head . You should not need to remove the pitman arm . Follow the adjusting sequence to the letter it is in all the good books . If you have suitable spare screwdriver heat and bend it.An impact screwdriver bit also works with a suitable box end wrench. The alignment of the rivet varies from box to box .

John in hot humid Suffolk County England
 
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I usually need to apply a little heat directly to the rivet. That always frees it up and it doesn't take much heat. Apparently because the rivet never moves or receives lubrication, it rusts in place (water from the street, rain water entering through the hood louvers, leaking radiator and/or water pump, humidity, etc.). The heat breaks the rust's grip and allows the eccentric rivet to be turned by a good-sized screwdriver. Naturally, this can only practically be done with the steering column removed from the chassis. I'd be hesitant to use heat on the steering box' backside while still bolted to the frame. It only takes a half hour or so to remove the steering column from the car. That way, you can do a much better job of making that fourth adjustment.
And that adjustment is important! I suspect that many of the guys' complaints concerning inability to achieve zero center lash and easy steering can be traced back to not making this adjustment. This is especially likely if the steering column is adjusted while still in the car. I have had to turn the eccentric rivet on numerous occasions just to reach a happy medium between adjusting out the slop and eliminating the pesky bind in the middle of the steering shaft's turning.
Marshall
 
Think of the slot rivet as the "centralizer."

Were the slot rivet a pivot (which it is - but an "adjustable" pivot) as you tighten the hex and decrease play, you'll create a bind on one side or the other. The slot rivet moves the housing to keep the pivot point "alongside" the hex rotation. Thereby centralizing tooth contact.

Between the two adjustments, the sector bushing part of the housing "floats." The hex adjustment adjusts your "in & out" relative to the worm, the slot rivet "follows along" to "center" the sector bushing housing directly opposite that tight spot at mid travel.

Doing the adjustment IS an iterative process. Start with both hex and slot eccentric away and perpendicular to the steering shaft. (most "loose" position) As you turn the hex in one direction or the other to bring the bushing housing closer, try turning the rivet one way or the other to "centralize" your contact and have equal free play out at the ends of the pitman travel. The hex and rivet MAY turn each in the same direction - or - depending on your worm they may turn "opposite" (as I say the sector bushing housing "floats.") What is important is you will find that turning one direction on the slot rivet makes the free play more unequal between the two sides at end of travel - but turning it the other way makes it better - but may create a bind at mid position.

Hence the iteration.

Really, adjusting the steering box IS best done out of the car. Many, including Chief, have done it in the car successfully - but I expect even Chief did it first on the work-bench. And - considering what we know of Bill - Chief must have been an Adult Prodigy.

Once you see centering and equalization happen - you'll wonder why you don't see it in your sleep.

Good luck
Joe K
 
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