Purchased my first A - 1929 Tudor

T

TRP

Senior Member
Hello,

I introduced myself about a month ago when I first started looking at a barn find out in Chino, CA. That deal stalled out so I started to look elsewhere.

I shared this in my intro thread, last week I located a decently priced runner with solid bones out in Nevada. I took a trip out to see the car and wound up making a deal with the owner.

It should be delivered in a week or so. I know its going to need a new top, the drivers door aligned, and the worst issue is fixing a long term leak at the column support. I will farm that fix out. Reccomendations on anyone near San Jose, CA would be appreciated.

322011


322010


The history on the car is that it was purchased from a long time owner out in Southern California. He was a member of several Model A clubs. The car was toured a bunch and earned a MAFCA 5000 mile touring award. The car runs a C head, 12v electronics, and a Borg Warner overdrive. The gent I purchased it from has owned it since 2011 where he put less than 500 miles on the car since taking ownership. He stated he has never used the overdrive. I will assume the overdrive is inop until otherwise drained and investigated. Any advice on Borg Warner experts in Northern California would also be appreciated.

Let the journey begin!

Ted in Morgan Hill.
 

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Congrats. You may want to consider a late steering colum bracket that mounts to the dash, not the tank. There's a thread 4/5 pages back called questions on steering column brackets? Answers a lot of questions on retrofitting the later bracket on an earlier 28/29 car. Good luck with the leak fix. There are past threads discussing this as well. Look it up in the black headers above marked search.
 
I would recommend that you remove the gas tank and slosh it.

I have a 29 that was done 35 years ago, no leaks. Not a big job.

You must stop that leak. Even with a 30-31 support, leak needs to be taken care of.
 
Yeah, that leak was a bummer to find. I nearly walked away from the car once I found it. The 31 column bracket will be going in once i get the leak fixed. I would rather not put in a pour in liner if i can get it fixed properly.

Im concerned about getting the paint matched on the tank.

Who should I order the top material from? Does the 29 use the short grain offered by L&B?

Looking forward to learning from the forum!

Ted
 
When you do the top treat the trim and tracks above the doors and across the front and back like gold.

John
 
Getting the tank off is not a big job and if you take your time you could save the paint.

Two coats of slosh should do the trick. Seals leaks, rust, and other small problems. If done right, it really works. Rivets will be sealed from the inside, not soldered from the outside.

We have done a number of cars, all with great results. Easy. We also leave correct column support.

It works.
 
Pmsqrd said:
One of my favorite color combinations. Just needs a straw stripe to set it off.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I agree with you on the stripe. I am trying to decide if I want to have the upper rear/back painted like this one before I add the stripe:

322031



About the 'slosh', are you talking about POR 15 and that whole cleaning process or another product?
 

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Ted
You should come and join our Model A Club in San Jose.
We meet on the first Tuesday of the month at Harry's Hofbrau at 7:30, 6:30 for dinner
 
The top looks bit high in the center. I wonder if it's the wood bows, or too much padding. Don't use foam rubber padding, as it usually looks too puffy, and it deteriorates with heat and age.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
The top looks bit high in the center. I wonder if it's the wood bows, or too much padding. Don't use foam rubber padding, as it usually looks too puffy, and it deteriorates with heat and age.
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Good morning Tom,

I think you're correct. There is a hole in the top and I believe i saw yellow foam in there. I have to replace the top anyway. Do i get the short grain or long grain? Any preference on vendors?

Ted
 
TRP said:
Hello,

322010
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Looks like a botch job on the fix, someone covered it with bondo maybe? I fixed the leak on my 29 by re-soldering and the result was no leaks, used a 31 bracket as well. Getting the tank on and off is a PITA IMHO.
 
TRP said:
Good morning Tom,

I think you're correct. There is a hole in the top and I believe i saw yellow foam in there. I have to replace the top anyway. Do i get the short grain or long grain? Any preference on vendors?

Ted
Click to expand...

Someone put a new top on my 29 Tudor, and they used the short grain. I like the looks of it, but I think the long grain is more correct. Neither is exactly like original, but either one will look OK, so if you're not going for points it's your choice.
 
looks like an awful amount of electrical wires and fittings right where the gas tank would leak...maybe re-route some of the wiring pictured to be safe? just a thought.
 
Solder or slosh that gas tank is coming out of the car. Do it right. Tank is just bolted in. Takes a little time, but no special tools or experience needed.

I would recommend that the first thing you do is fix a gas leak.

You have a nice car, a piece of history, a fire would not be good.
 
Hello d. and WHN,

The very first thing I will do after the car gets into the garage is pull the tank and get that repaired. The dash and lower part of tank will have to be painted after the leak is fixed. What ever they used to try and fix the previous leak (fiberglass or bondo) is starting to lift. The wires are for the blinker/turn signals & the water temp gauge on the column. I would love to find a more civilized way of routing the wires. One thing at a time.

Currently I'm looking for a shipper to get the car home.

Thank you all for the kind words!
 
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