1932 Model B Choke Cable question

rbullockv8

rbullockv8

Senior Member
First, I have one of these rare bird flexible choke cables. But mine is a little kinked in a couple of spots, making fine adjustments difficult. It jumps about a 1/4 turn back and forth and I have trouble getting to that sweet spot as the engine warms up.

So... I'm wondering if anyone has found a suitable substitute for the shielded cable that could be used to make a new one? I thought about using a speedo cable, but the cable itself is not nearly as thick in diameter, so I don't think it would stand the side-to-side twisting against the resistance of the GAV needle valve.

Yes, I could seek another used one at mega dollars, but most don't look better than mine.

Just wondering. Too much time on my hands.
 
Charlie Stephens said:
Wow. I am out of touch. Time to put another lock on the garage door, get a bigger dog and load the shotgun.

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

you can't have any guns in Ca.
When I lived there, I bought a black powder civil war revolver kit and it took 3 month to get approval.
 
Rich,

Try calling Renner's Corner and see if they would sell you some of the cable? If that fails how about scouring junk yards for hood release cables? Automotive heater vents? Or lawn mover shops for starter cables? How about posting a picture with dimensions and asking if the cable looks familiar to anyone? Am I correct in saying that the truck is a slightly different length than the passenger vehicle? It would be terrible to spend $280 at Renner's for one that didn't fit.

Charlie Stephens
 
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Charlie,

Using your link to Renner's, he offers both the passenger and commercial versions. The latter is shorter by virtue of the shorter cowl on commercial vehicles. (He evidently does not offer the third version for the '33-'34 passenger cars, which is longer.)
 
DavidG said:
Charlie,

Using your link to Renner's, he offers both the passenger and commercial versions. The latter is shorter by virtue of the shorter cowl on commercial vehicles. (He evidently does not offer the third version for the '33-'34 passenger cars, which is longer.)
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Thanks Dave, I missed that on his page.

Charlie Stephens
 
Charlie Stephens said:
Wow. I am out of touch. Time to put another lock on the garage door, get a bigger dog and load the shotgun.

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

Yep, that's what I was thinking, too. Pricey little suckers. Exactly why I was wondering if anyone ever tried fabricating one from another application!
 
The model B choke cable is quite complicated compared with a v8 choke cable. If I recall right there is a wedge shaped key at the carb end that fits deep down into the carb connection, with concentric springs along the cable length with clasps that provide spring tension. I image one of you wonder workers our there could replicate one, but you would need one to use as a guide. The v8 choke is simple compared, clamping onto the external carb lever.
 
DavidG said:
Charlie,

Using your link to Renner's, he offers both the passenger and commercial versions. The latter is shorter by virtue of the shorter cowl on commercial vehicles. (He evidently does not offer the third version for the '33-'34 passenger cars, which is longer.)
Click to expand...

David, do you know the lengths? Per Vince Falter's article of a few years ago, he thought the shorter 35-3/4" was for passenger cars, and a longer 41-1/2" one was for BB and commercial with engine speed governor.

The cable I have that was in my pickup as far back as I can remember is 35-3/4".
 
The 4 cylinder cables were used in 1932 passenger cars and commercial vehicles and 33-34 4cylinder vehicles as well.. As David stated the lengths would be different depending on the application.
The cable itself is actually a cable within a cable. The hollow outer housing looks like an oversized heater cable. The inner cable is a flexible woven cable. The knob and the part that engages the carburetor are attached to the inner cable. The cable actually does two jobs. If you pull on the knob it will close the choke for cold staring. If you turn the knob it will enrich the mixture. I believe the starting instruction are in the Owners Instruction Book. The way it works is you turn the knob a turn or so and pull on the knob. Once the engine starts , release the choke and let it warm up. Once it warms up lean out the mixture by turning the knob back.
You guessed it....All this turnin' back and forth breaks the cable.....that's why they good ones are so tough to get.
What I do is leave the carb leaned out as far as the choke cable is concerned and hold the choke closed/partially closed manually until the engine warms up. It takes a minute or so but it saves wear and tear on that $300 cable.
 
Phil,

It sounds like the spring at the carburetor end of the cable has lost its muscle as the choke is supposed to close by itself and never be open unless held open manually (unlike a V8 choke) Or perhaps the inner cable is binding inside its casing.
 
DavidG and 32phil: The cable I have works for choking, but it does bind a bit when shoving back in. The overall choke function is there--it just takes a bit of fiddling sometimes.

The main problem I have is the GAV adjustment. The cable is slightly kinked somewhere along its length, and it jumps when turned--like skipping ahead about a 1/4 turn--so it's difficult to get a smooth fine-tuning of the GAV.

As far as running adjustment, I have the engine idling as slow as I can without stalling. It's still tight from the rebuild, so needs a little faster idle speed adjustment to keep going. Getting better.

After the initial start when cold, I push the choke all the way in, but need to open the GAV a little to keep it from stalling at idle. As the engine warms, I'm able to close the GAV.
However, as I begin to accelerate up the street (engine warm now), I have to open the GAV a 1/4 turn or so, otherwise the engine is starving a little and has no power. Runs great with GAV slightly open.

So, it's getting that precise GAV adjustment that's bugging me. A smoothly-operating cable would do the trick.

I'm watching one on our favorite bid site, and I'm in communication with Fordbarn member Tom Walker about a cable or two that he has. His is the same length as mine: 35-3/4".

Thanks for the input.
 
When I say release the choke I meant just let go of the knob and the spring will pull it back to the open position. It takes some fiddlin' to get it started and then some patience till it warms up. Years ago I had a choke cable break due to wear and tear from the constant turning back and forth. Now I leave the adjustment where it runs best warm and manually work the choke to get it started and warmed up.
As always David much respect and thanks for your help/input on the "Barn"
 
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