1936 Truck restoration
- Thread starter 1stford
- Start date
Lawson Cox
Well-known member
Ted:
The exhaust system on the car and pickup is the same EXCEPT the tail pipe on the pickup is 4" shorter. I still need to circumcise mine. I keep hitting my leg on it. (Tailpipe that is.) LOL
Don Rogers
Well-known member
Don't forget that with a later engine and exhaust manifolds you can use a 35-36 exhaust pipe.
1stford
Senior Member
Worked a bit on the inside tonight. Heres a few pictures of the gauges in the truck. Didn't break or scratch anything so I'm thinking it went well. Have a question about he starter button you see here on the left. There was a hole there and the switch was in the pile of parts but I don't see it in any diagrams as they all show a foot starter switch. Anyone have any info on that?
Jeff/Illinois
Well-known member
1stFord our '36 pickup was converted to that starter button on the dash, same as yours, I'm guessing back in the 50's. Pop's '36 one owner original pickup that he bought in the early 50's already had had that done.
I think it was common practice as that freed up a foot to do other things while you start the truck. I don't believe it will affect your truck's value, I may be wrong. Joe's Antique Auto parts lists them at about seven bucks, page 51. Get his catalog if you don't already have it, good source for Early Ford V-8 parts. Download parts catalogue here:
http://www.joesantiqueauto.com/
I think it was common practice as that freed up a foot to do other things while you start the truck. I don't believe it will affect your truck's value, I may be wrong. Joe's Antique Auto parts lists them at about seven bucks, page 51. Get his catalog if you don't already have it, good source for Early Ford V-8 parts. Download parts catalogue here:
http://www.joesantiqueauto.com/
1stford
Senior Member
Its my understanding that the light switches with the horn button? Is there another light switch that is needed.
Thanks
Jeff/Illinois
Well-known member
You are correct same set up as a Model A Ford. Light switch is in the center of the steering wheel surrounds the horn button.
1stford
Senior Member
It appears that the steering wheel does not want to slide down enough for me to start the bolt. I've hit it with a rubber mallet a few times, hard enough for it to go on and no luck. Before I continue to beat on this thing is there any reason this steering wheel would not go on this shaft?
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VeryTangled
Well-known member
I'm agreeing with '36 5W above, and please remember, I'm not a parts expert, but that wheel doesn't look like the one on my '35 Fordor which has three spokes (see photo). My '36 Phaeton has a banjo, but it has three spokes too.
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Jeff/Illinois
Well-known member
Yeah wrong steering wheel mine is a three spoke and 'skinny'. Good thing you didn't get out the BIG hammer to drive it home it would have messed things up..........
36tudordeluxe
Well-known member
Noticed in earlier picture the engine had Merc heads and now has Ford heads; have you decided how you will handle fan, generator and upper radiator hose issues? BTW, that's a beautiful job you're doing; would look great in my garage as well!
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1stford
Senior Member
Great question. I ordered a set of outlets for my heads from Flathead Jack. I'm thinking I'm going to use a flex radiator hose to get it where it needs to go. I'm hoping I don't have a fan and generator issue but your question makes me think I might?
FlatheadTed
Well-known member
The wheel should still go on check it with key way removed Ted
36tudordeluxe
Well-known member
I never did figure out a way to keep the mechanical fan but I think there're others on this site who have. I went with an electric fan and alternator; it was a tight fit but have no regrets.
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1stford
Senior Member
I have not hooked the radiator up yet so I didn't know that was a problem, bummer. Maybe someone will give me some feed back as to what they did to correct the issue. I want to keep the mechanical fan and factory look.