flywheel weight removal ?

Talkwrench

Well-known member
Finding it difficult to get another flywheel around here for my build. attached is a picture showing the lipped style and a flat style. Unfortunately the lipped one is damaged on the other side leaving me with this flat one that is for a 10" clutch so we have to re-drill for a 9" . I did check and the ring gear should be in the right place. What would it be off?

Naturally it will be faced and I would like to remove some weight, the flat style is already a little lighter but does anyone have a ballpark weight I can get away with .
Its going to be in my new 37 block with early 'steel cam' , i'll shave the heads down. . 3.78 gear, tall rear tyres 7.50. pickup weighs 1 1/4T so not too heavy. Ideas?

Thanks..
 

Attachments

  • Flywheels.jpg
    Flywheels.jpg
    52.1 KB · Views: 56
For a 9" flywheel you can reduce the weight to half what you started with.
And taking off material far away from center does more to the rotating mass so go for material from the startergear to just outside pressure plate on the front and skim some off on the back.
 
10" works just fine if it isn´t an early gearbox...then the pressureplate will hit the case.
48 or 78 cases works with the 10" clutch.
 
Mine was reduced from 35# to 23#. This is on a 59 type engine.
Works fine in a Tudor sedan.

That's about the weight difference we find on the ones we've lightened in the past!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a couple shots of one we have here now, the "depth" machined on the backside is .375". Have done these before, all have worked out good.
 

Attachments

  • Flathead Flywheels Stock-Lightened.JPG
    Flathead Flywheels Stock-Lightened.JPG
    75.3 KB · Views: 44
  • Flathead Flywheel Lightened C.JPG
    Flathead Flywheel Lightened C.JPG
    80.3 KB · Views: 34
If you use them hard enough to get some heat into them make sure you have a radius on the inner end of the cut or you get a good place for them to start a crack...
 
Back
Top