Oil Pan Rope Seals

Model A Fan

Senior Member
I'm to the point of installing my oil pan onto my engine and haven't really come across much info about how to do the rope seals in my oil pan. Do I need to soak them for a long time to get them oil impregnated? The red book doesn't have too much detail on how to do this.

Thanks.

Trying to stay motivated here...:o
 
Since I received my motor gasket set I have had the rope gasket soaking in motor oil in anticipation of pulling the pan off and fixing a small leak and checking the bearings. That has been about 3 weeks now, and it may be another week or so before i get to that part of my maintenance.

So, to answer your question, soak the rope in motor oil and as the cork is usually sent long enough to be used on the Model B pan, soak it in water in a tuna can after you have cut it to length.

My wooden nickle worth.
 
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Try soaking in a small cat food can ... helps the seal hold it's shape.

I install using a rubber hammer and a large diameter socket.

If packed correctly in the recesses, no need to trim.

Your mileage may vary, JB
 
Throw the rear and side gaskets away and use RTV. Still use the front seal, best to use the modern rubber lip seal if you have the crankshaft pulley off and can install the lip seal around the pulley throat. If you must use the original two piece seal there is no need to soak in oil since the ones I have seen are teflon. If you are building a show car then you must use the gaskets but if you are building a driver and don't like oil leaks use RTV. Just make sure the surfaces are squeaky clean. RTV does not like an oily film.
 
I have put many rope seals in over the last 60 years. Chev, Ford., Buick, and more used rope seals for the rear main seal.. Never soaked them. You need to shape them and cut the length right, then put a little grease on them. Use some thing slightly smaller in dia then the pulley noise to form the rope.
 
Arlyn is correct that the new type of rope seals are teflon and do not need soaking in oil. The older cotton type needed soaking and would absorb quite a bit of oil. The "old mechanics" usually had a jar full soaking on the shelf for use when needed. If you are using a new type lip seal on the pulley, make sure that the area where the lip seal rides on the pulley is a smooth and wear free surface. If it has been worn by the old type rope seal you will probably have a leaker up front.
 
On soaking them in a CAT food tin: I DON'T have a CAT, must I buy CAT food & feed it to my DOG?
SERIOUSLY, I bought one gasket set that had a PERFECTLY formed rope, that required only a smear of GREASE!---DON'T remember where I bought it????
Call suppliers' 800 numbers & ASK!
Bill W.
 
The rope that came with my kit from Mac's has a purple tip. Does this mean anything? I purchased it recently and it came in the "basic" kit (head gasket was standard copper one). The rope seal is a little long I think. It sticks out both ends, so I'm assuming I need to trim it once I seat it. As for the pan seals; I shouldn't even use the cork? I guess I could use RTV.
 
The rope seal will be a little long don't cut it off. try and put it over the rest of the rope. As for soaking the rope =, yes think of it this way that is something that holds the crank in place it needs oil just like the bearings on the crank to lubricate it.
 
The rope that came with my kit from Mac's has a purple tip. Does this mean anything? I purchased it recently and it came in the "basic" kit (head gasket was standard copper one). The rope seal is a little long I think. It sticks out both ends, so I'm assuming I need to trim it once I seat it. As for the pan seals; I shouldn't even use the cork? I guess I could use RTV.

Of course you can do it any way you please. But if you want it to not leak you need to take real sharp knife and trim it flush and put a small dab of sealer on the ends.. If you bunch it up you will have rice leak.
 
I trimmed mine approx. 1/16" above the flange of the block and the pan. Trimming with a utility knife or buck knife did not yield a nice clean cut. A straight, true cut was possible with a pair of electrical cable cutters with good sharp edges.
 
The rope that came with my kit from Mac's has a purple tip. Does this mean anything? I purchased it recently and it came in the "basic" kit (head gasket was standard copper one). The rope seal is a little long I think. It sticks out both ends, so I'm assuming I need to trim it once I seat it. As for the pan seals; I shouldn't even use the cork? I guess I could use RTV.
I "think" that PURPLE STUFF is like a "paint", to keep it from UN-RAVELING???
Bill W.
 
If your putting a new seal on the front crank pulley you should also put a Durasleeve which is hard chromed on the pulley shaft where the seal rides. This $35.00 fix if an assurance of no leaks for many years. The new shafts on the pulleys don't come polished a will cut the crap out of a new seal. We have a sleeve to fit the shaft that measures 15/8.
 
Post 19 mentions Durasleeve 15/8. Speedy sleeve also has the similar product, but the Durasleeve product listings don't mention 15/8.
What is the repro 2 piece pulley outside diameter supplied by the vendors?
 
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