Shifting trouble in a 29'
- Thread starter iamskee
- Start date
We'll seeing as I am able to retract it manually by pulling the pedal pack, isn't it safe to assume everything is correct? If it was shorter/longer it wouldn't retract when I pulled the pedal back. I am going to take the spring off and see if I can do anything to loosen it without the resistance of the spring.
ADDED 05-16-17 7.45 PM
i agree with post #7. I missed this post until just now.
I think that the clutch disk might have been bent during installation and is dragging against the two halves of the pressure plate.
Notice in video # 2 for the 5 seconds between 10 and 15 seconds he is able to shift several times between R and 1st
and then in video 3 He does same thing with 2 and 3rd gear ... once he gets it into one of gears ONLY IF he shifts fast enough.
If he shifts too slow it is back to grinding again.
That is what I see.
Maybe there is rust on pressure plate or it is bent and that is preventing the disk from stopping when pedal is depressed all of the way.
1. I would turn off the engine.
2. Put transmission in 1st gear.
3. depress clutch all the way leaving trans in gear.
4. Start the engine and SLOWLY engage the clutch part way, then push pedal down repeatedly while engine turns.
The idea is to wear off the rust on pressure plate if there is any.
OR if plate is bent wear off the HIGH spots on the clutch disk to allow clutch disk to stop turning so you can get the trans into gear.
Do not do this for too long ... you do not want to overheat the clutch disk.
Note: Edited several lines --- re-read the post please.
i agree with post #7. I missed this post until just now.
I think that the clutch disk might have been bent during installation and is dragging against the two halves of the pressure plate.
Notice in video # 2 for the 5 seconds between 10 and 15 seconds he is able to shift several times between R and 1st
and then in video 3 He does same thing with 2 and 3rd gear ... once he gets it into one of gears ONLY IF he shifts fast enough.
If he shifts too slow it is back to grinding again.
That is what I see.
Maybe there is rust on pressure plate or it is bent and that is preventing the disk from stopping when pedal is depressed all of the way.
1. I would turn off the engine.
2. Put transmission in 1st gear.
3. depress clutch all the way leaving trans in gear.
4. Start the engine and SLOWLY engage the clutch part way, then push pedal down repeatedly while engine turns.
The idea is to wear off the rust on pressure plate if there is any.
OR if plate is bent wear off the HIGH spots on the clutch disk to allow clutch disk to stop turning so you can get the trans into gear.
Do not do this for too long ... you do not want to overheat the clutch disk.
Note: Edited several lines --- re-read the post please.
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J Franklin
Well-known member
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I see the above picture is of a AA bellhousing and TO bearing, in case anyone is wondering why it looks different. You can also see the 6 mounting bolts of the heavy 4 speed ******.
1955cj5
Well-known member
Based on your previous pictures I'd say you have the correct throwout bearing carrier....
Here is a different view of the AA carrier...it's really short!
I would spray some lube from the outside of the clutch housing, onto to the bushings on both sides, where the clutch shaft rides...
and while your at it, spray a little on the clutch pedal where it rides on the upper shaft...
Here is a different view of the AA carrier...it's really short!
I would spray some lube from the outside of the clutch housing, onto to the bushings on both sides, where the clutch shaft rides...
and while your at it, spray a little on the clutch pedal where it rides on the upper shaft...
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1955cj5
Well-known member
Here are the two places I'd lube the shaft from outside the clutch housing.
For now PB Blaster will be fine if that is all you have..you should learn pretty quickly if it helps any. Later you may want some LPS Lube Spray or similar..
The spot with the clutch lever is directly below the pedals.
The other spot to lube is on the opposite side of the clutch housing, under the passenger's feet....
For now PB Blaster will be fine if that is all you have..you should learn pretty quickly if it helps any. Later you may want some LPS Lube Spray or similar..
The spot with the clutch lever is directly below the pedals.
The other spot to lube is on the opposite side of the clutch housing, under the passenger's feet....
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1955 thank ou for the pictures. So as I wrote a few days ago, I used a grease gun on the fitting and as suggested I just used some penetrating oil on both places 1955 suggested. Results are the same. 
. Here are a couple pics of the same spots 1955 took, but on my car, as well as a short video I just took AFTER I sprayed the penetrating oil.
He last few seconds of the video show the bearing move forward when I press the pedal and release the pedal. THEN I do the same as the previous two times and lifted the pedal up. I just thought I should say this since you can't see my foot in the last shot.
https://vimeo.com/217745847?ref=em-v-share
. Here are a couple pics of the same spots 1955 took, but on my car, as well as a short video I just took AFTER I sprayed the penetrating oil. He last few seconds of the video show the bearing move forward when I press the pedal and release the pedal. THEN I do the same as the previous two times and lifted the pedal up. I just thought I should say this since you can't see my foot in the last shot.
https://vimeo.com/217745847?ref=em-v-share
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Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
It looks like you are pulling the clutch pedal back much more than it should be able to come back. Your clutch stop is likely worn quite a bit. When the floorboards are in place, they should also keep the pedal from coming so far back.
1955cj5
Well-known member
In the second picture in post #70 it looks like your clutch release arm is bent, right at the end where it connects to the adjusting arm yoke ....is it bent or is that just the picture angle?
The release arm should look like the one in the picture.
The release arm should look like the one in the picture.
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denniskliesen
Well-known member
What about the collar up on the pedal shaft? I've seen quite a few of those showing a lot of wear, might be part of the problem.
https://www.brattons.com/clutch-and-brake-pedal-shaft-collar.html
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/brake-pedal-shaft-collar
https://www.brattons.com/clutch-and-brake-pedal-shaft-collar.html
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/brake-pedal-shaft-collar
You are right it appears that someone heated the arm and bent it ...
Because the arm had to be bent, I think that fork that pushes throw out bearing has been installed in wrong position on the shaft and someone heated arm and bent it in order to get the Clevis installed.
Maybe fork was installed backwards or wrong fork was installed?
The angle of the arm in the photo is way off to have leverage and travel in order to disengage clutch.
Release Arm is not horizontal as it should be and as shown in # 72 ...
Maybe a homemade shaft was fashioned from a 3/4 inch steel bar or a second hole was drilled if shaft is correct one.
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Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I'm not seeing a problem with the arm. The picture is being shot from above looking down, so it doesn't show the arm being horizontal, but it looks good to me.
Sorry about the bad angle before. Here are a couple I just took. I *think* this is correct.
Now I plan on removing the spring and disconnecting the pedal clevis which should free up ALL resistance on the bearing. If spring is found to be inadequate I will order a new one. If all else fails I can iversons suggestion and just add an additional return spring under the pedal.
I know I am new to this and though it may seem simple, I am still hesitant and like to ask for help when in doubt. Thank you again.
Now I plan on removing the spring and disconnecting the pedal clevis which should free up ALL resistance on the bearing. If spring is found to be inadequate I will order a new one. If all else fails I can iversons suggestion and just add an additional return spring under the pedal.
I know I am new to this and though it may seem simple, I am still hesitant and like to ask for help when in doubt. Thank you again.
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Little update. Removed the spring, it is held on by the black wire seen in the video. The hub does not move forward/backward with the pedal at rest, if that makes sense. If I pull the pedal all the way back the hub moves freely. I don't think the spring is bad but I sure hope there's a fix for this without removing everything as I do not have the means to. Anyone else experience this? It's almost as if the hub is stuck when too far forward and need the pedal to pull it back. The car was sitting for a while, but I doubt rust could have formed in just a small section causing it to bind when forward. Two videos, essentially the same think just different angle.
https://vimeo.com/217826898
https://vimeo.com/217827834
https://vimeo.com/217826898
https://vimeo.com/217827834
A few weeks ago, before I knew about the Ford barn, and after reading Les Andrews book, I adjusted the clutch pedal travel. Today I measured and it had about 2" free play. I know, too much. I adjusted the rod and is now about 1 1/4 -1 1/2" free play. But here's the thing. After I adjusted the free play, I can no longer get the bearing to move forward/backward at all, like I did in the videos. I think this is because with the reduced free play, the more forward the hub is on the shaft. And since my issue seems to be stickiness at the front of the shaft, it is not allowing the hub to retract as it should.