Little off topic, metallic paint.

john worden said:
In this post you said " the paint store guy said it is not necessary to reduce it "
As far as I know there is not one acrylic enamel for automotive use that does not require reduction.
Consult the paint manufacturers Information Data Sheet for accurate information and then educate the paint guy with it.
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John, I did check the mfg site and it said 8-1-2 ratio, so I will try that. Thanks again. old guy
 
bill3337 said:
Just curious, but you haven't mentioned the brand of HVLP gun, or I missed it. It could be the tip isn't giving good atomization. I only spray base/clear, but I set my main regulator to 120 lbs and cut it back at the gun regulator to about 15 lbs, likely different for single stage. Base recommends 10 lbs at the air cap. (but hard to measure at the cap directly). You said the paint looked good when first sprayed, then develops orange peel as it dries....I haven't run into that before. A good forum to try out is http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php, you can ask experts for their opinions on there. It sounds to me like a combination of air pressure and distance from the surface. With HOK base I spray at 4" to 6" from the surface with a full fan and minimum 50% overlap. I suppose you could spray clear coat over the single stage and colour sand and polish that out. It would be better than losing your paint job. Just my amateur opinion.....good luck, Bill
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Bill, the gun is from Harbor Freight, a Chicago Pneumatic with a 1.4 tip. I haven't tried it with 10 psi yet so maybe that would help, I'll try it today. Right after painting the paint looks wet and very clear, like a mirror and then as time goes on the orange peel comes. Thanks Bill. old guy.
 
bill3337 said:
Just curious, but you haven't mentioned the brand of HVLP gun, or I missed it. It could be the tip isn't giving good atomization. I only spray base/clear, but I set my main regulator to 120 lbs and cut it back at the gun regulator to about 15 lbs, likely different for single stage. Base recommends 10 lbs at the air cap. (but hard to measure at the cap directly). You said the paint looked good when first sprayed, then develops orange peel as it dries....I haven't run into that before. A good forum to try out is http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php, you can ask experts for their opinions on there. It sounds to me like a combination of air pressure and distance from the surface. With HOK base I spray at 4" to 6" from the surface with a full fan and minimum 50% overlap. I suppose you could spray clear coat over the single stage and colour sand and polish that out. It would be better than losing your paint job. Just my amateur opinion.....good luck, Bill
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Oh, buy the way, that hood paint job is incredible!!
 
You might try PPG DCC Concept single stage acrylic urethane. You definitely have to use a good respirator since it still has the isocyanates in there. You generally only need the activator to thin it and it dries exactly like you lay it out. I like that stuff but I don't have a good mixer/matcher for it yet.

Paint that shrinks that much when drying has something wrong with the formula. I had a bach of medium dark blue metallic paint made up in Imron Elite SS a few years back and it did the same thing. I think the guy mixing it used someting in there that he shouldnt have. I used some of a different color the same day and it worked fine with the same activator I used on the other.
 
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I'll do a little research today, but what brand of paint are you using and what reducer? 10lbs at the air cap is more like 15 at the gun regulator, but if it looks like a mirror when you're finished and then the orange peel develops after, I think something is wrong as suggested above. I would have suspected you'd need more like 25 at the gun with single stage, but not sure. What temperature are you shooting in? Do you have a picture showing the orange peel?
That was my deck lid for my '37 Slantback, here's one of the hood. These were all painted in my home garage.
 

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Harbour Freight has an instructional video on their website for their HVLP Central Pneumatic gun, which isn't bad. Have you watched that? Don't forget about that air adjustment knob on the bottom of the gun handle. Make sure that's fully open.
 
bill3337 said:
I'll do a little research today, but what brand of paint are you using and what reducer? 10lbs at the air cap is more like 15 at the gun regulator, but if it looks like a mirror when you're finished and then the orange peel develops after, I think something is wrong as suggested above. I would have suspected you'd need more like 25 at the gun with single stage, but not sure. What temperature are you shooting in? Do you have a picture showing the orange peel?
That was my deck lid for my '37 Slantback, here's one of the hood. These were all painted in my home garage.
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All I can say is wow, Bill. Beautiful paint job.
I am going to put a comment about my paint problems below you comment, thanks Bill.
 
All is well with my paint problem. A friend brought over three paint guns he had from the old days. Snap-on, Cambell / Hausfield,(spelling?) and one other. The one other has its name damaged and is not legible but it paints really good and almost no orange peel. I am a happy camper right now.
I want to thank all of you for taking the time to help me, that means a lot to me. I will post some pics when the car is done. Again thank you all very much. old guy rich.
 
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