1956 Headlight switch

Woodie UK

Woodie UK

Member
I've used my newly acquired '56 Crown Vic a couple of times in the dark recently and while the headlights etc work fine the dash lights dont! First time they flashed on and off when I rotated the switch but are now dead.

I can buy a replacement sw but removing the old one seems difficult. The repo workshop manual talks about pressing the spring release button....if that's the silver button in the centre of the knob its rigid and doesn't budge. I don't want to force anything in case something breaks and I can't easily see or get to the back of the sw without getting my head among the pedals.

Anybody out there had to remove the light sw before? I found some old posts on the barn from 2013 which talked about locating the mysterious button to press but I just cant find any on my switch...

Colin
 

Attachments

  • Parrot Keys May 2017.jpg
    Parrot Keys May 2017.jpg
    98.3 KB · Views: 9
The little spring loaded button is on the Body of
the switch. If you can get your fingers up on the
switch, just feel around and you will feel the little
spring loaded button. it only pushes in a small
fraction of an inch.

While holding the button in, pull the light knob out.
The knob needs to come out before you can get the
swicth out of the dash.







.
 
I live here in Florida also, close to the gulf, and periodically have the same problem. What's happening is the salt air accelerates corrosion on the coiled spring on the rheostat and you loose contact. The solution for me is to rotate the switch knob back and forth and the corrosion will clean off within a minute or two, no need to remove the switch. If you want a permanent fix, remove the switch and solder a wire between the two contact points at each end of the rheostat. I have a 56 f100.

Sam
 
Lanny said:
The little spring loaded button is on the Body of
the switch. If you can get your fingers up on the
switch, just feel around and you will feel the little
spring loaded button. it only pushes in a small
fraction of an inch.
While holding the button in, pull the light knob out.
The knob needs to come out before you can get the
swicth out of the dash.
Click to expand...
Woodie UK
Here's a photo of the terminal side of a ('57) headlight switch, the mystery release button is outlined with a yellow circle. With all the wires in the way it may take just a moment to find...
.
 

Attachments

  • headlight switch c.jpg
    headlight switch c.jpg
    59.7 KB · Views: 57
  • headlight sw release button.jpg
    headlight sw release button.jpg
    37 KB · Views: 54
Last edited:
I rotate my switch every 3-4 months to keep it clean. Discovered this procedure as I had a 55 ford custom line back in 1966 and one night no dash lights. Bought a new switch the next day not knowing the simple solution of cleaning off the rheostat I removed the switch from the dash, major pain in the rear end. Once I had the switch in hand I could see the problem, cleaned it off and reinstalled it. Got a 56 f100 in 1981 and it has the same switch, same problem and same fix.
 
Of course, unless something is converted, 1955 and 1956 are VERY< VERY different --- because 1955 is -- 6 VOLT -- and 1956 is -- 12 VOLT --.....

If you want an N.O.S. U.S.A. made switch -- and possible, even a N.O.S. FOMOCO Head Light Switch (I might have 1 last FOMOCo -- have to look)
--- Call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935.... New York.....:):)
 
I have had some success with spraying rheostat and contact with WD-40 and turn the dimmer back and forth a few times. This was done without removing switch - Bob
 
Ummm...I seem to recall that it is necessary to pull the knob out to the parking light on position (first notch) before you can press the button down. IT WILL NOT PUSH DOWN UNLESS SWITCH KNOB IS IN PARK LIGHT POSITION).
I don't think the switch needs to be replaced. The problem is probably in that white porcelain round thing. That is the dimmer. It can be pulled out after the switch is removed. Clean the spring wound around the back of the dimmer AND clean the tab that it comes in contact with. After the corrosion is gone the interior lights should work unless the fuse on the end of the headlight switch is blown. Check it first before you do anything.
 
dmsfrr said:
Woodie UK
Here's a photo of the terminal side of a ('57) headlight switch, the mystery release button is outlined with a yellow circle. With all the wires in the way it may take just a moment to find...
.
Click to expand...

I was able to get my finger up there, press the button and pull the knob out! What is the next step to remove the whole switch body from the dash? I need to clean all terminals as most of the dash lights don't work. Thanks very much.
 
bfdinardo said:
... What is the next step to remove the whole switch body from the dash? ...
Click to expand...
The bezel behind the knob you just pulled out... it unscrews and the switch will hang on it's wires.
Note any letter designations on the switch terminals and label the wires the same before removing them.
bfdinardo said:
...most of the dash lights don't work. ...
Click to expand...
Oxidation / bad connections or burned out bulbs that don't get replaced cuz they're harder to get to.
The center contact at the base of the bulbs and the matching contact inside it's socket can be temperamental with age and humidity.

.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top