Carb questions for a 35 Ford

R

Ron35

Member
Hi: I'm still new so please forgive the naive questions re: my '35 ford:

I bought my V-8 several months ago with a 97 Stromberg and it ran well for the most part for a few months but showed a fair amount of wear and tear. Recently I couldn't get the engine to turn over. I have spark. I'm just now checking for how much fuel is being pumped up to the carb but suspect no gas is reaching it. If so, I'll check again for a possible air leak in the fuel line (but have checked most of it w/o finding any noticeable leaks--see below). I pulled the flex hoses to the pump, and from the pump to the carb--both totally clear. so, my questions:

1. does the 97 have a filter built in? if so, where? Otherwise I have an inline filter, but the type I have is all metal--can't see in. I also have the incorrect glass fuel bowl ('48) and it is clear.

2.. I have a kit for the 97 but am leaning to having it rebuilt by someone who knows what they're doing, and then bead-blasted so it's presentable. Any recommendations?

3. In checking for an air leak from the tank to the carb, what's the best way? spray with soap like when checking for a gas leak?

4. related question: by constantly hitting the accelerator in trying to fire up the car, my (ballast-?)resister keeps heating up and once smoked. I have the ceramic type. Is there a better one on the market? or do all such resisters heat up?

Thanks, Ron
 
The only filters was in top of the glass bowls between gasket and pump.
A clear piece of hose on the suction side of the fuelpump will show bubbles if you have a major airleak in the suctionline.
The resistor should heat to change resistance...it´s the idee of it.
 
I would suggest you have someone rebuild your carb, Uncle Max & Charley NY are two good sources. I wouldn't think the ballast resistor should be getting that hot that quickly. You sould not be cranking the engine over for much more than 5 seconds at a time with a cool down period between attemps. It is possible the coil or points are damaged. You need to trouble shoot the problem and not just crank the engine over. Check for spark at the plugs and fuel at the carb.
 
flatheadmurre said:
The only filters was in top of the glass bowls between gasket and pump.
A clear piece of hose on the suction side of the fuelpump will show bubbles if you have a major airleak in the suctionline.
The resistor should heat to change resistance...it´s the idee of it.
Click to expand...
Thanks Flatheadmurre: Good suggestion. I will add a clear plastic hose on the suction side of the pump. Wonder if such a clear plastic hose should be left on full time (i.e. so you could always check for air bubbles); I assume the downside is such a hose would not last as long as those presently on the market. Thanks
 
Be sure there is plenty of gas in the tank and no fuel wet spots or drips from the fuel tank or any place along the fuel line, and then work backwards from the intake.

Leave the ignition off, crank the engine for about 15 seconds, do not pump the throttle.

Pull the air filter off and get on top of the engine so you can see down the throat of the carb; a small flashlight might help. There are two venture tubes in the carb. Near the top of each venture, there is a small tube which delivers raw fuel from the accelerator pump when you push on the gas. The accelerator pump is actuated by that lever on top of the carb. Now rapidly open the throttle while looking down at the little tubes. You should see a stream of gas squirting out while the throttle is moving. If you do see a good stream from both, your problem is not fuel delivery to the carb.

If you see a dribble or no stream, it could be a bad accelerator pump plunger, or a blocked power valve (through which the accelerator pump fuel must pass). However, it is more likely that the carburetor fuel bowl is not getting filled by the fuel pump. The test for that is to disconnect the fuel line from the side of the carburetor and crank the engine (with the ignition off). You should get about a tablespoon of fuel with each cycle of the pump (two rotations of the engine). If yes, the float valve is probably stuck closed in the carb fuel bowl. The road-side fix is to tap on the top of the carb near the fuel inlet with the but of a hammer handle or large screw driver. The proper fix is to take the top of the carburetor off. If you find the fuel bowl full, you need a carb cleaning or rebuild. If the bowl is near empty, remove the brass fitting on the side of the carb, from which you removed the fuel line. You will find either a needle or ball type valve, which must be cleaned or replaced. Then reinstall the float valve and hook up the fuel line. Be very careful not to cross thread either the valve or fuel line. Leave the top of the carb off and the ignition off and crank the engine until the fuel pump fills the bowl. The float valve should stop the flow with the fuel level a shade less than half an inch from the top surface of the bowl. If more that 1/16" off from that level, the float level will need to be adjusted. Put the top back on the carb and give it a try.

If the fuel pump test was a dribble or no flow, replace the in-line fuel filter and try again. If that does not fix it, remove the flexible fuel line between the firewall and the fuel pump, and inspect for constriction. Modern fuel with alcohol will deteriorate the old ones. If at all deteriorated or constricted, replace it. With the flexible line off, have someone watch the firewall fuel line while someone else blows on the gas tank filler. It looks weird, but a little air pressure should blow fuel out of the fuel line. If that produces fuel flow, you have a fuel pump problem. Disassemble and clean the little check valves. Inspect the diaphragm for leaks. Be sure the screen at the top of the glass bowl is not blocked with crud.

If no flow on the tank blowing test, you have a fuel pick up or fuel line blockage. Hook up a way to blow back from the firewall fuel line into the tank, and listen for bubbles at the tank filler. If that clears the line, it may get you going, but the problem will likely recur.

There is no filter in the Stromberg 97 carb, or any other Ford carb.
 
JSeery said:
I would suggest you have someone rebuild your carb, Uncle Max & Charley NY are two good sources. I wouldn't think the ballast resistor should be getting that hot that quickly. You sould not be cranking the engine over for much more than 5 seconds at a time with a cool down period between attemps. It is possible the coil or points are damaged. You need to trouble shoot the problem and not just crank the engine over. Check for spark at the plugs and fuel at the carb.
Click to expand...
Thanks JSeery. (1) Can you supply a link to either Charley or Uncle Max?
(2) what resister do you recommend: ceramic? and if so is there more than one type?
(3) I added a new coil and new points a few weeks ago
(4) I did check and found spark (as noted above). as to fuel in the carb (here comes a dumb question) can (and should) one inspect for fuel in the carb by leaving the carb on the intake, but removing only the top? I wasn't sure and was equally interested at looking at my float and for any dirt inside the carb so I pulled the carb off
 
1 no filter in a 97 if you have a 48 style fuel pump add the filter inside the glass bowl, since a paper filter is sold for that purpose by NAPA or Wix.
2 IMO do not have it bead blasted! if you do have it done before assembly and block passages you do not want to blast.
3 there should only be a couple of places where the air could enter the fuel line. At the tank make sure the fuel line to the hydrostatic sender is tight, use a line wrench.
the other possible leak is the flex fuel line to the fuel pump replace it with one from Robert Shewman gadgiteer@aol.com
4 the heat from the resistor is normal make sure there are no combustibles touching the resistor.

You can look inside the carb with it attached to the intake manifold DO NOT DROP anything down the carb.
 
Both of them are on the Barn daily, do a quick search.

Are you running 6v pos ground or 12v neg ground?

Taking the top off of the carb to check the bowl is a common check. But I would try checking fuel out the line to the carb first, much easier.

As a side note, never leave the ignition switch on except when the engine is running or you are testing something or attempting to start the engine (and then not any longer than necessary).
 
Thanks Drolston: Great checklist of steps to take. I see where I will be this week-end. Thanks, great diagnostic approach. Ron
 
I use one of the small vacuum hand pumps (mightyvac or what ever) to do a quick check for line leakage. disconnect both ends of a line and plug one end. Use rubber stopper or what have you. Connect the pump the the other end with supplied connectors and draw a vacuum. It should hold the vacuum. If it doesn't, you have a leak to find. You can use soapy water solution after finding a way to pressure up the line but you will need very little pressure. An air pressure regulator would be in order for that. They even have smoke testers now that basically blow smoke in the line then look for the exiting smoke trail. These are used to test for leaks on fuel vapor evap systems and such now days.
 
Thanks Terry. I couple of questions: (1) what good alternative do you recommend for cleaning, like an acid?
(2) what resister do you recommend?
 
JSeery: I'm running w. 6 volt pos. ground. And yes I turn off the ignition each time I'm checking something, and I'll check the fuel line to the carb first as that potentially cuts off a lot of other poking around if no fuel is coming out. Thanks
 
Next question, what are you currently using for a ballast resistor, an original? Original style coil?
 
JSeery: I doubt it's original: the resisting part is hard to see but I recall it was some kind of white tube maybe 1/2". Somewhere I've seen maybe in the Forum, someone holding in his had a pretty large ceramic piece.

Yes, original style coil, just restored by All Ford
 
An original ballast resistor would look like this. The left side is the resistor and the right side is the fuse holder (not related to the ignition system, but part of the lighting system). If not an original style, can you measure the resistance of it?
 

Attachments

  • fuse resistor-fuseblock 40-12250.jpg
    fuse resistor-fuseblock 40-12250.jpg
    61.9 KB · Views: 15
Thanks Flatjack9: I plan to inspect and tighten as needed tomorrow am. do you use an electric pump in addition to your regular pump? if so what brand and how do you like it? Ron
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top