Crankshaft pulley

The 2-piece pulley is easier, but either one can be changed without pulling the engine.
 
1. Before you lift the front of the engine to make clearance between the front cross member and the pulley ... remove ALL 4 of large bolts that hold the bell housing to the rear engine mounts.

Those are the bolts “inside” the rear motor mounts (two on each side).

If Float a Motor mounts then only two bolts that hold the “rubber donuts”.

Bell housing will be cracked if you leave any of the bolts installed and put a jack under the front of the engine.

Not sure if lifting is needed for two piece pulley. I only used one two piece once about 50 years ago and do not remember.

2. I do know that many two piece pulley manufacturers have a different shape and or depth to the notch on their two piece pulleys.

Some screw together and many times the threads are different!

So it is not always possible the leave the “inside” ½ of the pulley installed and use the outer ½ from the “new pulley” on the outside.
 
Not sure why my whole post is erased on post #6 when I try to edit it. Good thing that I noticed that the screen was blanked out before I hit save.


Radiator must be removed to clear pulley and get wrench to crank nut ...
 
On early 28-29 the trans top half of ujoint cover needs to be loose or removed so that tab on top will let the trans drop when pivoted on rear engine mount so that front can be raised to clear the crossmember. With 2 piece, only the nut needs to be removed, radiator can stay, engine mounts need not be loose.
 
denniskliesen said:
On early 28-29 the trans top half of ujoint cover needs to be loose or removed so that tab on top will let the trans drop when pivoted on rear engine mount so that front can be raised to clear the crossmember. With 2 piece, only the nut needs to be removed, radiator can stay, engine mounts need not be loose.
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So, you are saying that you DO need to raise the front to clear the crossmember with a 1 piece pulley, and I understand about the trans "hook" to let the rear drop down, as well as the motor mount bolts.

Thanks, makes sense.
 
Thanks guys
I will start with removing the radiator and see what I have for room and if need be I will remove the rear motor mounts and jack the engine.
It is always something isn't it?
 
Loyd Nix said:
Thanks guys
I will start with removing the radiator and see what I have for room and if need be I will remove the rear motor mounts and jack the engine.
It is always something isn't it?
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That is loosen the rear motor mount bolts where they attach to the bell housing.

You don't say but if your crankshaft pulley is of the "two piece" variety you'll remove the pulley part after undoing the center bolt - but leave the "sleeve" part behind.

I've been fortunate to do a "one for one" replacement of the pulley part and NOT change the sleeve. But as someone indicated, two piece pulley designs "vary" and your new pulley part may not match the old sleeve.

To remove the sleeve, you will probably find it a pretty tight fit - it's being held by rust AND the upper and lower seal. You can pull it out with a pair of vice-grips - but be sure to pull DIRECTLY STRAIGHT out without turning.

Examining your new pulley, you'll note the innermost portions of the sleeve part are champhered (this to help you get a start on pushing the sleeve back in place past the seals AND to provide some "pre-load" to the seal) and near the champher you'll see a notch. The purpose of the notch is to catch the crankshaft timing gear key which keeps the crank pulley from turning relative to the gear.

In inserting the new pulley/sleeve back in place you'll want to locate this key and be sure your slot in the sleeve lines up BEFORE you start.

And - before and as you go along - you can check to be sure the key engages the slot by rotating the pulley/sleeve relative to the key/crank. You should "feel" it go in and catch.

If you get really stuck on getting the pulley to go into place, (or removing the old sleeve) you can remove the engine front timing gear cover (dome head bolts) and the oil pan. But if withdrawal of the old sleeve is done carefully (you can lubricate the OUTSIDE of the oil seal to help) you should be able to do the removal/insertion without further disassembly.

Hope this helps,
Joe K
 
My inquisitive mind would like to know WHY hes changing the pulley? What really goes bad on them unless its broke or someones pried against it and broke it...Or if one wants to go to a 2 piece pulley.

All good points above, i managed to change my one piece to a two piece on the engine stand but just slipped the old onepiece out, lubed the stub of the 2 piece and it slipped right in without having to mess with seals.
 
Art Newland said:
He doesn't say he want to remove it, just asked if it was possible. 8^)
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This true. We be more "terse" in our replies.

Yes or no answers. Like the IRS.

Not much fun in that.

Calvin Coolidge comes to mind.

Coolidge is a splendid talker, but never speaks when there is nothing to be said. He is always sparing of words. He has at the same time a great sense of humor. One of the stories told of him is that a lady next to him at a dinner once turned toward him and said:
“I bet someone that I could make you say three words.”
“You lose,” answered the President, solemnly.
​
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I have yet to get to the loquacity of Bill Williamson - but I don't have a dog who has something to say either.

Joe K
(I see your smiley emoticon)
 
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