Cork valve cover gasket

What we have been doing is applying contact cement to one side of the gasket and the cover. Then on the side that goes to the block we apply a light coating of grease. That way the cover can be removed and replaced.
Al
 
WE did same thing on VW Bug engines in the 60s and 70's.

That way you could remove the valve covers and not have to replace and scrape the cork gasket if it was necessary to check valve clearances.

Valve adjustments were at each oil change 3000 miles this way the gasket could be re-used several times.

The dealer I worked at used 3M Weather strip cement. Did this for many years.

The trick on Model A is to use about 2 foot lbs or so on the bolts.
Over tightening smashes the cork.

VWs had those wire spring clips on the valve covers so tension was always the same.
 
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With my gaskets, I rub a small amount into the cork. This VERY THIN layer is just enough to coat the gasket allowing it to stick to where I place it. There is not enough on the gasket to even see any oozing when tightening.
 
I've always used super glue to hold the gasket in place, then grease to seal the other side. Works like a champ!
 
Awesome, i do the same thing for chevy valve covers with rtv on the cover side and grease on the engine side. Just wasnt sure about this being verticle and low on the engine. Any torque specs or should i just give em a good snug like a 350 too?
 
Why use a gasket? Just use RTV, you may cuss it if you have to remove the valve cover but it won't leak like gaskets are prone to do. Just my experience.
 
Gasgacinch to hold the gasket then do like others with the grease. Gasgacinch comes off much easier the contact cement.
 
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No cussing necessary with one side greased!
More importantly as I have seen on my engine, Silicone squeezes out of the joint and can break loose to clog an oil port. Then cussing is aloud if not necessary.
 
I use Ford's method: just the gasket, nada else, and a couple of headless bolts to hold things in place while assembling.
 
The Ford gasket was thick paper--- with a script on the corner, about twice as thick as the replacement ones--- I just greased one side---

Must be cheaper to make out of cork
 
I use Prematex Permashield gasket dressing and sealant, it is fuel resistant. Another good product is EZ Turn which is fuel resistant and is used on aircraft fuel fittings. I have used this on the gas shut off valve (easy to turn and seals the threads on the fittings.) EZ Turn cost me about $10.00 from Sky Geek.
 
Benson said:
WE did same thing on VW Bug engines in the 60s and 70's.

That way you could remove the valve covers and not have to replace and scrape the cork gasket if it was necessary to check valve clearances.

Valve adjustments were at each oil change 3000 miles this way the gasket could be re-used several times.

The dealer I worked at used 3M Weather strip cement. Did this for many years.

The trick on Model A is to use about 2 foot lbs or so on the bolts.
Over tightening smashes the cork.

VWs had those wire spring clips on the valve covers so tension was always the same.
Click to expand...

Oh man i tried an inch wrench and 20inch lbs (wrenches minimum) i could see was gonna ve too much. I just snugged them down and watched the gasket and made sure they were about the same feel. Id have to guess it was closer to 15 in lbs.
Reason i was in there is my A has always had a pretty bad miss that is super hard to track down. The exhaust would just about rather suck your hand into it as push it out. Im pretty sure now that my tappets are sticking as i could only get a gap sometimes before finding out i had to use a screwdriver to force the tappets down to get a measurement.
 
I'd try a can of Sea Foam in the oil, and another can in the gas to free up sticking tappets and valves.
Sea Foam did wonders on a 1983 Olds with sticking hydraulic lifters that I once owned.
 
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