Temp Gauge confirms

B

Beauford

Well-known member
Installed temp gauge and confirms that I thought it was running hot. It heated up quickly with just a little throttle engaged. It was approaching danger zone on meter so shut her down. I guess i'll take the radiator to a shop. I cant think of any other reason other than timing and it actually sounds good.
 
Do a leak down test before doing anything - a bad headgasket can heat up the water jacket like a flame under a pot of water.

Eliminate the engine then try to back flush and degrease the radiator before taking it somewhere...

Both of those solutions are relatively free and helps eliminate one or the other.
 
Beauford said:
Installed temp gauge and confirms that I thought it was running hot. It heated up quickly with just a little throttle engaged. It was approaching danger zone on meter so shut her down. I guess i'll take the radiator to a shop. I cant think of any other reason other than timing and it actually sounds good.
Click to expand...

Isn't this a new rebuild? It will run hot until it breaks in. Without being able to really drive it, it probably won't break in.
 
Most of these old, problem radiators have many plugged tubes where there is no flow. If there is no flow, the crud must be mechanically removed. If you can't find a shop that can rod it out, you will end up with a re-cored radiator. You must have some flow for the things that are easy to work.
 
yes it's a new rebuild but going over 200 degrees I can't afford another rebuild. On another note it go. Put rear on jack stands and wheels wont turn. Time to pull trans and see if clutch is in backwards....just another amature hour with me. HAHAHAA
 
Talked to James...he thinks the radiator is the problem and yes he said it will run a little hot until break in. Also saved me from pulling ******. ( wait is that able to be said anymore?)
 
Mix up a couple ounces of ATF per gallon of gas for the first tank or two, it'll help lube the top end during break in


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You mentioned timing in your first post. Yes retarded timing will make an engine run hot.
Are you absolutely sure the timing is correct?
Did you made sure that the arm on back of distributor had full travel side to side before setting the timing?
 
Crosscut....full travel as far as housing body will allow. I got a A'er down the road who I hear times really well. I'll see if he is around this weekend.

My throwout bearing was up too tight to the fingers thus causing my trans problem. Trying to adjust 90 year old yoke that's stuck...I'll be dead before I get this done. Better update my will with instructions for my 6 year old son to get this thing on the road. HAHAHA
 
Mitch..... I am at peace. If I have to fix buy borrow or steal a working radiator
I will. I got the SOB to go forward and reverse. One happy
camper.
 
Buy a new one IMO.

To much invested to screw around IMO

Bad radiators on new motors is far to common penny wise and dollar foolish..

Make sure your timing is right also...


When ever we do a modern motor job in the shop it gets a radiator.....period

Same with the A's

FWIW
From marcos site:::

""Don't be fooled by flow testing! Flow testing your radiator as suggested in several publications will only confirm EXTREME problems. You can block more than 1/3 of the cooling tubes on an original radiator and pass the flow test. The reason for this is the lower water outlet of the radiator is the restrictor. It is designed to limit the speed the water travels through the tubes. More time in the tubes equals cooler water.""



Glad it moves....fwd, back
 
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Good info. James said a new one as well. It won't be brass works. I don't
have that kind of change. Way over budget.
 
If you have a good "ol skool" radiator shop in town, I wouldn't hesitate to have them go through it. They'll take off the tanks and rod out the tubes and reassemble it and leak test it.

I had that done to the original rad in my 30 Tudor this summer and it runs cool as a cucumber and no leaks. $150 IIRC.

A new rad is obviously better, but a new Toyota is even better. ;)
 
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