89,000 Mi. Engine is tired, and smokes

1946 Ford coupe is in need of a new engine, Here is the car and the new engine (276 CI 1942 Truck engine) What i need to know is just what I need to do to make the 4 bolt aluminum manifold work on my 59 A engine. I have a chevy. carb. Issues with push rod, venting, Leveling carb, will the belt to the generator line up, and what else???
David












I Have been duck hunting in a post war ford coupe for over 60 years. I have had more than a couple. It is important to me to have this ford in good running condition for duck season this coming fall.

 
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looks like you need correct manifold. the one you picture is 49-53 it will work but i think correct one will work better
 
I use Rochester 2 barrel carb (2GC) off a brand x, 283, 327 or even a buick V6, run carb backwards and weld a short tab to linkage to connect the accelerator
 

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I have a small base 2GC on an aluminum Canadian Mercury manifold on the '51 Mercury engine in my '51 club coupe. I found the throttle bores on the carb were a bit larger than those on the manifold, so I bored out the manifold using a "Rota-Broach". It was expensive but it worked well, and I was able to do it using my bench-top drill press. Like Alan says, if you mount the carb backwards, just about everything falls into place just where it should. All I had to do to hook up the stock linkage was to use a ball-stud bolted to the 2GC carb. The choke linkage is the only piece that doesn't match, so I went with an automatic choke on mine, and that even connected up easily by shortening one of the Mercury choke pipes. You are going to have to do the usual stuff to make the crankcase ventilation work properly; this is probably the perfect time to install a regular PCV system.

The alternative would be to use a regular Ford manifold with an adapter to the Rochester carb. The throttle bore mismatch would be even greater than that with the Mercury manifold. I've never tried it, but I seem to remember "Ole' Ron" posting on here that a Ford manifold doesn't have enough "meat" in the throttle bores to be bored out properly for the 2GC without going through to the exhaust heat passages. As to the "tilt" on the carb, I didn't have a problem. If you do, there are commercially available wedge spacers to get the carb back to level. All in all this is a nice alternative to multiple carbs on a car with a hood.

(If you would like to use my Rota-Broach", PM me and we may be able to work something out.)
 
You can run the later EAC manifold but the 8CM one has a cleaner look to it. As was mentioned, the 2GC will required manifold mods but can be made to work very well. A four bolt adapter might be available for the old Ford three bolt manifolds but I haven't looked for one.

I noticed you have blue valve springs like the 1BA springs for rotator type valve assemblies in your build up engine. Are the valves rotator types? The standard valves generally used green valve springs or no color at all and they are a bit longer. This may not be any problem at all but I couldn't help but wonder. I buy NOS stuff all the time and I have an NOS set of those blue springs but all my engines are non rotator type so I can't use them yet.
 
Why not switch to a 49/50 Merc iron manifold that the carb sits level on?

I have a 49-50 Merc intake, the carb sits at an angle, just like the one pictured, pretty sure their all like this. Folk run em on early engines a lot without paying the carb tilt no mind.
Tub is correct, the intake needs boreing out to the size of the off brand carb, in fact it needs the same done if using the stock "back draft" Merc carb, even though it came from the factory like that!.
Early intakes, as tub stated, don't have enough meat for this size bore, atleast none that I've measured have.
Martin.
 
Thanks to all for all the good information and advice. The blue valve springs came with all the other valve components from Speedway. The blue valve springs were in an Isky. Box along with a 77b cam.

My Old departed Pal had a 276 CI. Flathead equipped with a Chevy Carb. and a manifold like the one I now have. That ford ran well enough to really burn a hole in my memory. Hope that explains the reason for my pursuit.

The PVC valve is most likely a good Idea. (Thanks)
Thanks again for the replies. David
 
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