What's wrong with this picture?

Not sure if any one has considered this but When I restored my 35 I noticed the U joint torque tub moving under the clam ,so I packed over the ball with Teflon shims. Also Henry doesn't the 47 have a chatter rods going forward to the front cross member . its the same set up so what keeps it stable. Ted
 
FlatheadTed said:
Not sure if any one has considered this but When I restored my 35 I noticed the U joint torque tub moving under the clam ,so I packed over the ball with Teflon shims. Also Henry doesn't the 47 have a chatter rods going forward to the front cross member . its the same set up so what keeps it stable. Ted
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No chatter rods on a 47.
 
Rag lint on the threads. The threads appear to be rolled instead of cut. This is common for high strength fasteners.

They made kits back in the day that added a sort of anti-chatter capturing device from the bottom of the transmission to the frame. Folks have posted photographs of them on this forum but I haven't seen one for a while.
 
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Those appear to be arp bolts and covered in pocket lint. Nothing wrong with them.Blow them off with compressed air and install with loctite and you are good to go.They are a 12 point socket head.A 6 point socket will not fit.Walk into a local parts house and take the bolt with you and they will put the correct socket in your hands.Aircraft have ton's of 12 point bolts and nuts.A 12 point socket will also fit 6 point.This isn't rocket science.Be sure to use loctite and all is well.The shoulder on the bolt is required for the flywheel it will work.

R
 
Ronnie said:
Those appear to be arp bolts and covered in pocket lint. Nothing wrong with them.Blow them off with compressed air and install with loctite and you are good to go.They are a 12 point socket head.A 6 point socket will not fit.Walk into a local parts house and take the bolt with you and they will put the correct socket in your hands.Aircraft have ton's of 12 point bolts and nuts.A 12 point socket will also fit 6 point.This isn't rocket science.Be sure to use loctite and all is well.The shoulder on the bolt is required for the flywheel it will work.

R
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They are ARP part number P10AP.750-1.
 
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Compare them to your old bolts you should be fine.ARP don't want washers under their flywheel bolts.I think they are 3/4" hex in 12 point. All should work for you just compare length. They are 7/16"X .750, 3/4 hex, .250" shank and .250" head.

R
 
It's been awhile since I worked on a 59 series engine. I've always thought that all engined had the plate under the flywheel bolts to retain the drive dowels. I've always used the late 8BA flwwheel bolts torqued to #70 lbs. I've never had a problem here. I know that the length of the bolt is critical, as it can hit the main bearing if too long. This may not be of any help, but just something to think about.
 
I haven't removed my stock bolts yet. When I do, I'll compare them closely with the ARP bolts to see how they compare, then give it some more thought. I have a strong preference for stock unless there is some real compelling reason to replace with something else. I'm not sure this will be such a time.
 
Those bolts have way more quality than your stock bolts and the stock ones were well designed as well.The arp mentioned are well utilized in high hp drag racing cars not a fire breathing 80 hp flat motor :) The arp will cure the clutch plate interference if the head is thinner.

R
 
Ronnie said:
Those bolts have way more quality than your stock bolts and the stock ones were well designed as well.The arp mentioned are well utilized in high hp drag racing cars not a fire breathing 80 hp flat motor :)
Click to expand...

Seems a bit like putting new wine in old bottles. Matthew 9:17 :rolleyes:
That's why I like to stick with stock.
 
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Multiple choice quiz.

Which clutch disc is correct?

A. A

B. B

C. A or B, doesn't matter.

D. Neither are correct.

Left disc, A, just received from Fort Wayne Clutch as replacement for
Right disc, B, previously received from Ft. Wayne Clutch, just removed with springs rubbing on flywheel bolt heads.




Clue:

Green Bible diagram of the clutch. Looks like a combination of the two. What do you think?

 
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You should be asking Ft. Wayne Clutch they will be way more informed on their product than the keyboard jockey's here.

R
 
If i had them in front of me I could confirm the one on the left in a heart beat.
It just needs a critical measurement and you are done.The one on the right when measured will give you the measurement that is much different.You still should make FT, W aware of the difference and get a response from the pic you show us.Just because they sent them to you doesn't make it correct.Talk to a tech guy there and have him walk you through it.I can see from the pic's there is more than one difference.Are both part numbers the same on your invoices? Were they the same price. What are the part numbers?

R
 
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Old henry .... No anti-chatter rods on your '47 ?? My late '47 has them. Bell housing/frame have matching numbers. :confused:
 
I have now looked at every clutch disc for the 47 passenger car that I could find on the internet from every source, including all the pictures I ever took of my previous clutch discs, and they are all like the new one. The only one that I found that looks like my old one was for a T-5 transmission and different flywheel.

So, mystery solved. The reason my clutch springs rubbed on my flywheel bolt heads was none of the reasons any of us guessed. It was simply the wrong clutch disc sent to me by Ft. Wayne clutch 2½ years ago, nothing more. Those much smaller springs on the correct disc will never come even close to my flywheel bolt heads. So, I don't need to do anything to them, not grind them nor replace them, and all will be well. And, if that rubbing was contributing to my clutch chatter, that may well be gone.

If anyone has greater enlightenment than this please share.
 
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It sure looks like the one with 6 smaller dia. springs is more likely to be correct.
The larger dia. springs as you say on the one with 5 is most likely the reason for the interference that was experienced and was incorrect to begin with.
 
That one on the left looks more like the 9.5 inch Long type disc used on the 8BA ford cars but they didn't have the same spline. There were and still are aftermarket reproductions being made for these so folks have to keep an eye out for stuff like that. Just because it is made as a replacement doesn't necessarily make it a good fit. I would figure Ft Wayne would be aware of that but if not, someone should make them aware.
 
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