Model A Rear End Install

jdupay

Member
I have a 1929 Model A Std Coupe. Recently, I noticed my shackles were bad and shock balls needed replacement. Rear end is otherwise in very good working order. Since the engine has been rebuilt, and the transmission, I decided to drop the rear end out and have someone redo the perches and put in new shackles (I don't know how to weld - yet - so I had someone take care the shackle perches and the shock balls) Anyway, got it back and it looks great. I went to reinstall it - reverse of how I took it out - and for the life of me, I can't get that sucker back in. I know the drive shaft and receiver on the transmission are splined. I thought they were lined up and it did insert part way, but then it stopped. About 1/2 - 3/4 inches short of getting the rear springs into the right spot to raise the rear end. Is it not aligned enough? Is that possible? seems like the receiver has enough movement to deal with some up angle of the drive shaft, maybe not. It is a tight fit over the brake cross member, but it did come out without removing it and the guy who did my engine and transmission work had the backend out without removing that cross member, so I am stuck (literally). I would appreciate any tips or tricks. I am sure I am missing something simple.....
 
I find it helps a lot to lower the brake cross shaft. I also put grease on the top leaf to help it slip into place, the usually have to move the top of the spring forward with a 3 foot 2 X 4.

Once it's up in the pocket, jack it up a bit, then slide it back and forth to be sure the bolt head drops into the hole.
 
With all the pushing and shoving you will have to do, don't let it fall on you. Jack stands are good until you push sideways.
 
Comon problem, awhile back someone else had the same problem. If you use the search function and read their install it may help you with yours :-)
 
It may be that the speedo drive is hanging up on the brake cross shaft
. I know Tom likes to pull it down but I generally keep it in place.. If nothing else it gives a rest for the torque tube for a minute or two till you slid it in .
It my take a crow bar on the backside of the spring to the rear craissmber to give the spring a little torque to slip it into the crossmember. That's only if the bell is seated against the inner shell of the u-joint cap

It will go... If you are still having issue check out the front end if the driveshaft to make sure the speedo drive and all is in place properly

Post a pic it two if need be
Larry Shepard
 
Like Tom said, a little grease on top of spring and cross member. I loosed the spring shackle nuts a little and used a 30" long screw driver to pry in spring. Don't forget to tighten spring shackle nuts.
 
Thanks everyone. The guy who helped me with my engine and transmission rebuild told me to put ratchet straps on the spring to pull it forward. The spring tends to tilt back and everything binds. Straps around the springs up to the engine mount brackets. A few clicks on each strap (takes two people to do it evenly) and it popped right in place. 15 minute job....learning something new every day working on this car.
 
Thanks everyone. The guy who helped me with my engine and transmission rebuild told me to put ratchet straps on the spring to pull it forward. The spring tends to tilt back and everything binds. Straps around the springs up to the engine mount brackets. A few clicks on each strap (takes two people to do it evenly) and it popped right in place. 15 minute job....learning something new every day working on this car.

'spring (top) tends to tilt back' binding things ! You've learned the reason !
Think....the front end of the drive staft/torque tube is long and tilted UP slightly when in the install position.

A 'crow' bar/ pry bar at the top of spring and in the cross member, and forward pressure makes it easy install...but you found that out, eh :)
 
Thanks for the update! Rackets straps can be a great tool if not over done like breaking things! But a lot better than push/ pulling a car off jack stand.
 
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