Adjustable Lifters

I have never seen a widened gap in the miles that lead to a valve job or a complete engine overhaul. Usually the valve seat area would lower the stem narrowing the gap.Its funny that this series of post seems to favor the use of adjustables others have gone completely the other way non adjustables and grinding the stem to fit. I used adjustables on two engines in the last 30 years,the first ones were the solid adjustables that ISKY supplies with their cam kits and they seem to be okay,think some call them Ford tractor valve adjusters.The last set I didn't want to use adjustables because I heard on early Fordbarn that some were junk China made. I had this engine at a shop and they insisted on using adjustables even though I pointed out to them they had excellent equipment to grind the stems.They argued that future adjustments would be easier and timewise they did not want to spend a hlf day or more grinding . I finally agreed to just get things going but insisted that I supply the adjustables not the tractor ones they were going to use.I bought the ones from Red Hamilton when he still owned Red's and the ones he recommended. They may have been made in Australia or New Zealand,don't remember. The engine shop had a devil of a time with them,busted knuckles and busted wrenches trying to move the adjustment screw. Took them a lot longer than grinding would have taken so they said.
 
37 Coupe said:
I have never seen a widened gap in the miles that lead to a valve job or a complete engine overhaul. Usually the valve seat area would lower the stem narrowing the gap.Its funny that this series of post seems to favor the use of adjustables others have gone completely the other way non adjustables and grinding the stem to fit. I used adjustables on two engines in the last 30 years,the first ones were the solid adjustables that ISKY supplies with their cam kits and they seem to be okay,think some call them Ford tractor valve adjusters.The last set I didn't want to use adjustables because I heard on early Fordbarn that some were junk China made. I had this engine at a shop and they insisted on using adjustables even though I pointed out to them they had excellent equipment to grind the stems.They argued that future adjustments would be easier and timewise they did not want to spend a hlf day or more grinding . I finally agreed to just get things going but insisted that I supply the adjustables not the tractor ones they were going to use.I bought the ones from Red Hamilton when he still owned Red's and the ones he recommended. They may have been made in Australia or New Zealand,don't remember. The engine shop had a devil of a time with them,busted knuckles and busted wrenches trying to move the adjustment screw. Took them a lot longer than grinding would have taken so they said.
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I got two sets from Red's about three, maybe four years ago. Within both sets I'd found a couple of soft ones.

I prefer adjustable as I can "dial them in" to where I want them. With non-adjustable type, you are at the mercy of the initial valve grind. Just my preference. No doubt there are as many valid reasons for going with the non-adjustable type.
 
But again the gap would narrow not widen at least at first with a poorly ground or non matching valve and seat.Correct?
 
Kube said:
I got two sets from Red's about three, maybe four years ago. Within both sets I'd found a couple of soft ones.

I prefer adjustable as I can "dial them in" to where I want them. With non-adjustable type, you are at the mercy of the initial valve grind. Just my preference. No doubt there are as many valid reasons for going with the non-adjustable type.
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In the adjustable lifters available today from most of the well known vendors you may find some that feel tight and others that feel 'soft' or loose. If like me, you have a set that seems a bit 'offshore' then you should look at a thread I started called 'loose in the lifters'. Whether or not you choose to use the repops like I did, it's interesting to actually have the ability to test them with an inch-pound torque wrench or a 5 lb flour sack tester like I show. It seems that the goal is to have 5 ft lbs (60 inch lbs) of torque before they turn. Make sure you have them threaded very close to where you be using them. It can make a difference. Also because I never reported back on that thread, the questionable lifters I used passed the file test in that a new good quality file did not cut or mark the body of the lifter.
 
Followed up on JSeery's post of yesterday and called NOPI. Quoted the part # B-2032 and the price, including shipping of $248.60. Russ, who took my order, agreed to price, checked availability, and emailed me a copy of my invoice. Lifters are drop shipped from their vendor in Chicago. NOPI's part # is 125+0455. Will report back on country of origin etc. when I get them next week.

If original Johnson's, timing of this thread is really good for me because we're at the lifter stage of the rebuild!!!

Dick.
 
I took apart a supposedly very low mileage 1939 engine about 15 years ago and saw something that I still cannot figure out or have ever seen. Every valve stem end was concave,mushroom stems so quite a wide area. I do not know if they wore this way or someone did a valve job only on this engine and did this intentionally or tried facing them in a lathe and could only cut the center. I would imagine the entire stem would be hard not just the case but I don't know. The rest of the engine had never been touched and had the original steel pistons that Ford used in these 91A engines. Mayby the hardening was off and that is how they woreout.
 
We use straight stem valves in all of our old Ford rebuilds. Usually they are Chevy valves which we have found more durable. This requires adjustable lifters, of course, but when we are done, all valve clearances are correct, and any noisy ones can be easily corrected.When grinding stems for clearance, it is almost impossible to not have at least one that clicks, as most old Ford mechanics can confirm.
 
When it came time for my rebuild, the shop asked which way to go on the lifters. They said a valve job for adjustables was $100, a stock valve job (non-adjustables) was $200. That essentially cut the cost of adjustables in half. He said no one had chosen a stock job in the last 10 years....

I will say, a stock valve job done right, with original lifters makes for one of the quietest engines ever made!
 
Gary aka GOSFAST,

When you get time, could you post a pic of the Johnson lifters you buy by the tray?

Thanks much!
 
Shoebox said:
Gary aka GOSFAST,

When you get time, could you post a pic of the Johnson lifters you buy by the tray?

Thanks much!
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No problem, will put a couple shots below here!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. These are the brand ONLY lifters we will use on any build leaving here. The ride in my signature now has over 30,000 miles on it and no issues. After handling/selling hundreds of these we haven't had a single bad piece, that really says much about the product!
 

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Wait, so these original Johnsons are solids? They don't make the hollow ones any more? How are these any different from the ones that Isky sells?
 
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To me, I think the fact that they have a long history of not losing their adjustment far outweighs other factors. But then I putt around at about 1500 rpms and consider 2500 'wound out'. Since they are solid, do the threads continue down past the bolt when bottomed out? The hollow ones I've worked with lose some of their grip as the bolt's stem enters the void as there is no longer as much interference in the threads. If the bolt's necked down portion is fairly low, then they would still hold well when jacked up for a performance cam.
 
I have a set of adjustable lifters, but don't know if they are Johnsons. Are Johnstons marked as such, in any way? Thanks for info.
 
Ordered the Hylift Johnsons on 3/22 from NOPI and they arrived yesterday 3/25 by FedEx.

Part # on box is B-2032 as JSeery reported above and manufacture dates stamped on each box of 4 range from 1/26/17 to 2/21/17. Boxes say Hylift Johnson A Division of Topline Automotive, Muskegon, USA. Am a dunce at posting pictures, but think these are the modern day, "real deal". Topline Automotive website states "Made in USA".

Once in my 59AB block, and fired up, will report back.

Dick.
 
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