First Trip,

DennisR

DennisR

Senior Member
but only a very short run to get some fuel, about 2 miles. Finally solved the clutch noise, thanks to all for the tips etc., it was a loose ring gear in the end, new one fitted, I`m getting quite adept at pulling the axle back and removing the gearbox, 3 times now singlehanded, not bad for a `44 baby :D, anyhow It now looks like i have a steering wobble to sort out. Had a look at the archives for previous posts and found some interesting articles to give me some guidance but any tips, suggestions very welcome, like the best place to make a start.
Will post a pic soon of the "naked lady" now that she has some clothes on....................
 
I had wander after I had replaced all the steering and found it to be the bolts that bolt the steering box to the frame. Had to watch them real close while another moved the steering wheel back and forth and saw a VERY slight movement - surprised that little movement correction made such a big difference. BTW I had a lot of steering column flex which I corrected with a later model support to the dash and believe that the gas tank mounted column support flex contributed to the working steering box attach bolts.

John
 
If you have the "modern" front radius rod ball mounting configuration with the rubber ball inside that most newcomers to the hobby seem to order and install because they think it's better than the original Ford design, THERE'S your wobble. If this design doesn't cause shimmying right out of the package, it will. STUPID design! Once dripping oil from the rear main bearing saturates the rubber (not IF, but WHEN), the rubber becomes spongy, allowing the wishbone ball inside to gyrate all over the place = wobble. You can tell if this mounting kit is in place because the bottom clamshell is very thick. The original was just a shallow black clamshell.
In all my years working in Model A's for customers, friends and my own cars, this &%$&*! design has been the #1 cause of shimmying and the dreaded death wobble. Only twice in 52 years have the king pins and/or their bushings been at fault. Worn and loose components figured #2 for being guilty. Bad tires also must be considered. But check that wishbone mounting configuration first. My money's on that bad boy for your wobbling.
Marshall, the broken record
 
Marshall - I don`t have the rubber, but I do have a packing piece, dish shaped with a hole, was going to fit it when I re-assembled but couldn`t decide if it needed it........
 
The 2 ford factory style clam shells should not be touching and should have like a 1/4" gap with nuts snuged up. If they are touching or very close put the shim in - note thats only a temp fix and to do it right you need to remove the front axle/wishbone and have the old one removed and a new one welded on.

Worn out shackles I see alot as well as football shaped steering balls.

Dont even think about getting that steering stabilizer band-aid fix....
 
As Flamingo says, Start at the steering and work forward Or start by jacking the car up and shaking the wheels. Look for looseness anywhere! One car of mine turned out to be the bushings in the ends of the springs, I found it after I replaced the kingpin. Another cause would be the ball-joints. These are not the modern balljoints! These are the spherical ends of the control arms They are supposed to be 1.000, but they get worn egg shaped. If they're below .970-980 " replace them. Wheel bearings, King pins, etc,etc. nom we get to the real big one! The steering box! People don't like to mess with them. But I find them Very doable, just be careful! And you want a really snug fit on sector shaft and the bushing. And the good news is that you have 4 (Four) adjustments on the box and you may be able to take up the slack there. You should have no more than three inches slop/play in the steering wheel. Good Luck!
Terry
 
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Yeh, This has been discussed before. I'm sure a search will bring up plenty of info.
Something I haven't seen in any of the previous threads about this, yet was the cause of a wobble I once had (no, not booze:D) was the eye in the end of the axle. They are prone to stretching if the cotter pin locating the king pin is done up too tight. Slack there will give the same result as flogged out bushes. So much so hat only dismantling the king pin assembly will reveal where the looseness is.
Does anybody make oversized king pins? I don't want to throw the axle away just for that - why not ream out the eye and fit an oversized pin. That would be an easier and just as good a solution as boring the eye and sleeving it.
 
Make SURE the nuts that secure the steering arms to the spindles are REAL TIGHT! They're often overlooked & can cause a WOBBLE!
Bill Tight
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Make SURE the nuts that secure the steering arms to the spindles are REAL TIGHT! They're often overlooked & can cause a WOBBLE!
Bill Tight
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For no wobbles, everything has to be just right and there are so many places trouble can start. Check everything that moves or can be taken apart. A little looseness anywhere can start a wobble which only increases the looseness and things deteriorate from there.
 
Synchro909 said:
For no wobbles, everything has to be just right and there are so many places trouble can start. Check everything that moves or can be taken apart. A little looseness anywhere can start a wobble which only increases the looseness and things deteriorate from there.
Click to expand...

same goes for steering wheel play - those 1/64"- 1/32" slop or worn out parts really adds up by the time it reaches your hands.

I feel on any car steering is #1 importance, then brakes, then making it go.

I would just remove the front axle, inspect the front leaf and work your way back to the drag link. Replace ANYTHING you find that has slop - it should all move freely but should not wiggle. Once its all replaced/reamed/greased it should be nice tight and responsive. Then keep it greased and it will outlast you.
 
SeaSlugs said:
same goes for steering wheel play - those 1/64"- 1/32" slop or worn out parts really adds up by the time it reaches your hands.

I feel on any car steering is #1 importance, then brakes, then making it go.

I would just remove the front axle, inspect the front leaf and work your way back to the drag link. Replace ANYTHING you find that has slop - it should all move freely but should not wiggle. Once its all replaced/reamed/greased it should be nice tight and responsive. Then keep it greased and it will outlast you.
Click to expand...

Back up on stands ready, will check everything that moves and if it don`t move why..........as for outlasting me I don`t think it needs to be that good for that to happen :D
 
Radius ball fittings order of assembly - cup with hole against bellhousing - ball - solid cup - spacers between cups, where do the springs go, between the cups or beneath the bottom cup ?
 
Lots of info in the catalouges
 

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