Temperature gauge and thermostat

Larryejoh

Larryejoh

Member
Has anyone ran the pipe with the temperature sending unit fitting and the thermostat at the same time? Is there enough room between the outlet at the head and the radiator to fit both in?
 
I just went out and took this photo. The thermostat and the temp sending unit fit before I changed to a Gano filter. There was not enough room for all three. Don't do as I did and tap the neck on the side where it interferes with the head nut......place it higher up or on the rear of the neck. I solved the problem that I created by altering a tool to fit under the sender and over the head nut. Now I can retorque when needed. Russ
 

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I bought the upper neck for mine with the 1/2" pipe fitting already cast and tapped, my old neck was the wrong neck for my model year. My thermostat fits snug in the upper hose near the neck. I bought the tool from Bratton's knowing I would use it quite often and I didn't really want to take the torch to one of my good wrenches. It's very snug but it does work. I could grind the tool down on the outside for a better fit. Initially I bought the tool so I could retorque my head with out removing the distributor.

 
Larry, the Snyder set up is what I had that worked with a thermostat until I put the Geno filter in. I didn't plan well and tapped the next too low. I was able to grind the outside of the tool that Dennis shows until it fit between the head stud and the sending unit. "Measure twice, cut once" comes to mind. Russ
 
Why would anyone design an outlet neck like that!?!?!:eek: The OBVIOUS place to put the boss for the gauge sender is at the back where it won't interfere with access to the head nut. VERY poor design.:eek: I've put the sender in the back of a modified original style neck. Much better.
 
I thought about drilling and tapping a hole in the neck but I didn't think there was enough metal in the walls for it.
 
Synchro909 said:
Why would anyone design an outlet neck like that!?!?!:eek: The OBVIOUS place to put the boss for the gauge sender is at the back where it won't interfere with access to the head nut. VERY poor design.:eek: I've put the sender in the back of a modified original style neck. Much better.
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I agree and had I known about the 2 piece part that ??? makes, I would have bought that one and used the thermostat that the manifold was built for. I don't remember who it was that makes it. I'm sure somebody will chime in...
 
Vintage Precision Thermostat housing:
 

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CarlG said:
Vintage Precision Thermostat housing:
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Yup, they are a nice looking piece of equipment but I don't think they are necessary. Thermostat in the top hose and sensor in the back of the neck (like politicians treat us!!) is fine.
 
I solved the problem that I created by altering a tool to fit under the sender and over the head nut.
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Why not just use a crowfoot adapter? I wouldn't think that the bit of length difference would affect the torque much. Or it could be calculated ifn one was paranoid about it.
 
katy said:
Why not just use a crowfoot adapter? I wouldn't think that the bit of length difference would affect the torque much. Or it could be calculated ifn one was paranoid about it.
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I use this Snap-On wrench for torquing head nuts that have an obstruction:
 

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I also have one like Carl shows, but it's homemade.
By having the square directly over the box for the nut, it keeps the torque accurate.
 
The problem with the tube insert, which will only be aggravated by addition of a thermostat, is that it reduces the flexibility provided by the long radiator hose. As the motor bounces around and the hood/radiator assembly move, the solder connection to the radiator inlet will be stressed. However, in my experience, this is only a problem when you're on a trip far from home.
 
I could not put the pipe that the temp sensor fits in along with the thermostat in the top hose , not enough room.I had to buy the top outlet with the hole for the temp sensor.I dont have a problem torquing the headnuts because I use the offset adapter wrench.
 
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