Mounted the Pickup Cab on the Frame - :(

Brace Bailey

Brace Bailey

Member
Driver door is sagging badly - so I decided I had better mount my sandblasted and repaired cab on the frame to see it that would help.

No help on the door.

BUT>>> the front blocks are on top of the welt - no problem
Row of blocks under the seat front - about 3/8" gap between wood and body.
Rear, narrow blocks - behind seat - about 3/8 gap between wood and body.

Rear of cab (new lower panel welded in and the body pudy in the picture) - is sitting on the welt.

So, I've seen on some earlier posts that there may be "rubber" shims of 1/8" or 1/4" required for the mid and rear blocks. Do I shim with them to get the
rear of the cab off the frame?

and how how much clearance between frame (or frame/welt) should I have?

Hate to start cutting the welded panels out....
 

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Brace Bailey said:
Driver door is sagging badly - so I decided I had better mount my sandblasted and repaired cab on the frame to see it that would help.

No help on the door.

BUT>>> the front blocks are on top of the welt - no problem
Row of blocks under the seat front - about 3/8" gap between wood and body.
Rear, narrow blocks - behind seat - about 3/8 gap between wood and body.

Rear of cab (new lower panel welded in and the body pudy in the picture) - is sitting on the welt.

So, I've seen on some earlier posts that there may be "rubber" shims of 1/8" or 1/4" required for the mid and rear blocks. Do I shim with them to get the
rear of the cab off the frame?

and how how much clearance between frame (or frame/welt) should I have?

Hate to start cutting the welded panels out....
Click to expand...
The set of body blocks (new) came with the CCPU. Perhaps the blocks are not right for a 1930 CCPU. Never checked. Maybe they are for another car.

Some Parts Catalogs show individual body blocks for specific Model As. Might be a good idea to verify before you start cutting things up.

Let us know what you find.
 
I'm no pro at it but you do have 6 body blocks for the ccpu.
The front cowls do not receive blocks only 1/4 inch rubber shims give or take 1/8 of an inch. All six body blocks require rubber 1/8 of an inch or more depending on the spacing to make them all tight to the frame and to the body. Of course wooden block goes against body & rubber spacer/shims touches frame/ apron.
Hope this helps

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Thanks guys. I'll pick up some pads. I still have some left over from another project. I'm sure the 6 blocks are correct - I've taken some pretty detailed pictures of anothe CCPU at Auction.

The aprons are not on, so I'll add those along with some rubber. I don't have
Any pads under the front at all, so maybe that will bring it up some.

Anyone know if the rear of the cab should touch the frame? I'm suspecting
It should be off a little -- and there is a dust shield that goes in there somewhere too.

On another note... my stainless bed strips, pan and polished bolts came in for the Bed! New Fan and alternator too.
 

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Thanks.... I've still got a lot of work to do - but it's solid, and no more 87 year old rust.
Learned how to rivet too....

The TIG welding still needs work, but I had pretty good luck plugging the extra holes with my MIG and the copper backing plate.
 
Do you have Les Andrews red book? On page 1-30 there is a good diagram of the shape and placement of the blocks. If yours are a different shape you will never get it right.

Sewall
 
While working on my 31 cab, I noticed that you can push and pull on the top before the rivets and bolts are tightened up, and the top will move 1/2 to 1 inch forward and back. The doors need to be installed then push the top forward and back until the doors line up properly before tightening up the rivets and bolts that hold the cab together. Before doing this make sure the body is sitting on a level surface or straight and level frame with the proper wood and rubber blocks under it.
 
I think you may have something there. I'll back off the top panels and screws and give it a try after adding some rubber pads.

Thanks for your help

BB
 
Went down to check the front mounts. As you can see, there are none...

So, I'm forming a piece of 14ga to go in there for the front mounts. I believe
The wood blocks are correct - I'll order some rubber pads from Snyders.

I'll keep you posted.
You might have to angle the pictures to make sense. They seem to have rotated 90 degrees on the upload.... Looking at the inside of the firewall.

If anyone happens to have a picture of how this mount looks.... please post.

Thanks
BB
 

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I think the late 30 is different. My firewall doesn't have the sharp right angle
Where the block attaches. I can bend and fabricate and weld in a piece and drill the hole.
Thanks for the pictures.
BB
 
please set your photos to vertical...my neck is sore trying to figure out your issue.
 
Wouldn't the May 1930 cab be the same as a 29 cab, if they changed over in June of 30?

Could you have an early frame with a later cab?

Does it matter?
 
I'll work on the sideways pictures. :)
I'm pretty sure the 30-31 cabs have the same firewall - different than the 28-29's.
The windows are the same.
 
Hi Farrell - that would be correct. I've discovered that the forum will only display pictures in "Landscape" format. So I have to tilt my I-Phone over sideways to get a picture that isn't 90 degrees off.

Anyway you look at it, the front cab mounts are missing about 2" of metal that
Would contain the hole for the bolt.

I'm bending and shaping the metal to repair them. - then drill the hole back in there.

Have a good one - and stay warm?

BB
 
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