Question about buying a Model T

Tinker

Tinker

Well-known member
I've always had a itch for one, mind you I'm not in a hurry or probably shouldn't. You only live once right.

What's available here around mn. I would want to see it.

Not looking particularly for a high dollar restored T. A T that's in good/great shape that's fun and something I can tinker with.
 
Tinker said:
I've always had a itch for one, mind you I'm not in a hurry or probably shouldn't. You only live once right.

What's available here around mn. I would want to see it.

Not looking particularly for a high dollar restored T. A T that's in good/great shape that's fun and something I can tinker with.
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Are you on Facebook? I see Model Ts in MN all the time in the pages

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I am, maybe not in the right set of people. I'm mostly a mid/late 30s ford guy.
 
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Tinker said:
I've always had a itch for one, mind you I'm not in a hurry or probably shouldn't. You only live once right.

What's available here around mn. I would want to see it.

Not looking particularly for a high dollar restored T. A T that's in good/great shape that's fun and something I can tinker with.
Click to expand...

You need to do a little homework to help you out.

Is any T ok?
Brass era?
What body type?

Find a local club near you and join it. Get around the cars and see what you like. Learn about them and perhaps even drive a few before you jump in.
 
Hey Tinker, you are taking the same road I went down. I'm having my fun with the 39 and after returning from our trip to Michigan several years ago the Model T stood out the most, were it all started.

I'm 5'9" and the 26 Fordor I thankfully found locally fits me just about right, there is not a lot of room between me and the steering wheel. My shoe is a 9 and to me the pedal arrangement is O.K. as the 26-27's had a little more pedal room for the clutch and brake away from the (center) reverse pedal. We are spoiled with the pedal room we have on our 39 P/U's.

Murray Fahnestocks "the Model T Ford Owner" should be one of the first books to get. The model T is like a moving machine shop, everything needs to be in tolerance, alignment and lubricated to work in harmony. Scott
 
Scott I'm not a huge guy but I am not small. 6'2" 250. I know there is a T tour club up here as I saw them touring one day last fall. I'll have to connect with them and talk some. Maybe I'll get lucky and get a ride.

24-27 touring or pickup roadster would be first choice.

I'm in no hurry.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
You need to do a little homework to help you out.

Is any T ok?
Brass era?
What body type?

Find a local club near you and join it. Get around the cars and see what you like. Learn about them and perhaps even drive a few before you jump in.
Click to expand...

Yep, right again Mike. Thanks
 
What are some of the things to consider?

Maintenance? what is usually a constant issue. Coils? electrical?

Any issues to look out for mechanically or electrically?

Titles and ford serials. Locations stamped & nomenclature.
 
Mine have been very reliable after I spent the time checking everything and going through it mechanically. That's the biggest thing especially with their age and not knowing the history of why they were parked.

Make sure to check the fan hub for play, can throw belts. Crank pulley for worn pin holes it can throw belts and make you think you have a knocking rod, check your bands, change all fluids, make sure carb and fuel tanks and radiator are cleaned and good for longevity. These are simple and reliable vehicles.

Vin numbers are below the water inlet connection on the block on left side on a flat spot and depending if it's a later model it will have one stamped on frame on passenger frame rail below wood floor just forward of passenger seat. They should match. If not usually the stage inspector will work with you. Ford used the vin on the engine but when am engine went they were commonly swapped out and caused mismatched numbers inspectors typically understand this.

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Hey Tinker
There are at least two Model T clubs in Minnesota. I know people involved with both of them. You can find information here:
T-Totalers - http://www.t-totalers.com
North Star Model T Club - northstarstatemodeltfordclub.com
Both clubs have monthly newsletters with classified ads. Lots of knowledgeable people.
 
Thank you JP

I've had a 28 model a jalopy before so some things are familiar, but I know the T is a completely different animal, mostly transmission wise.

Have no issues with a fixer, also a hemmings member.
 
I plan on selling my Speedster this summer . All redone and extremely reliable. Alum head, fresh engine,stipes cam, kevlar bands, alternator, distributor ( Bubbas of course), very good tires wire wheels . Nice seat etc...
Dont work on it , just drive it.......
 
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BUBBAS IGNITION said:
I plan on selling my Speedster this summer . All redone and extremely reliable. Alum head, fresh engine,stipes cam, kevlar bands, alternator, distributor ( Bubbas of course), very good tires wire wheels . Nice seat etc...
Dont work on it , just drive it.......
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For my Flatheads I have used the crab rebuilt by Bubbas and puuurrrs like a kitten. Would like to know what you are using in your T.
 
The Model T ignition system needs to be rebuilt once then it is good for decades. The bands in the transmission and the rear axle are the weakest part of the design.


Tinker said:
What are some of the things to consider?

Maintenance? what is usually a constant issue. Coils? electrical?

Any issues to look out for mechanically or electrically?

Titles and ford serials. Locations stamped & nomenclature.
Click to expand...
 
Tinker,
If you are in the Bloomington area give me a call and check out my '26/27 coupe, chassis and extra parts. I am getting out of the hobby and downsizing the collection. I was planning on selling everything in May or June but if you are looking for a good project or two this is a good start.
A parts are going also.
 
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