Ignition cable head bolt clamp

BillLee/Chandler TX

BillLee/Chandler TX

Senior Member
Car: '29 Tudor
Pop-out ignition switch, quite likely a repo.

The heavy cable routed through the terminal box and then through the clamp that is captured by a head bolt and nut, then to the distributor.

Having to deal with that clamp is a royal PITA when doing any sort of maintenance on the distributor.

Is there any reason (other than looks) that the cable needs to be captured by that clamp? Could the clamp be omitted?
 
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I have 3 model A's, two without no need except for points!
 

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The clamp was part of Henry's anti-theft provision. In order to hot wire the car you have to remove the cable from the distributor. In order to do that you have to lift the distributor from the head and unscrew the cable. Before that you have to remove the #8 head bolt where the cable is clamped. The theory is a thief does not want to spend that much time.

Many of us discard the clamp to make it not only easier to remove the distributor, but also to not have to break the torque on a head bolt. Removing the nut on the #8 stud for even a short period of time can allow the head to temporarily warp and dump water down into the pan.

When eliminating the clamp it is necessary to add a spacer under the nut the thickness of the clamp to prevent bottoming out the nut on the threads and ending up with a false torque. You can also replace the #8 stud, which is slightly longer with a standard length stud, which is what I do.

It is prudent to remove the distributor each time you change the oil. Clamp it in a vice, burnish the points and re-set them. Clean the distributor up and add oil to it. The action of removing it periodically will prevent it from becoming rusted into place.

Tom Endy
 
I felt my cable without the clamp was putting to much side pressure on the J box cover and would eventually bust the cover or maybe the box. If I remove some coolant is there any problem removing the head stud nut long enough to lube the dist. shaft as Tom E suggested?

John
 
aermotor said:
I felt my cable without the clamp was putting to much side pressure on the J box cover and would eventually bust the cover or maybe the box. If I remove some coolant is there any problem removing the head stud nut long enough to lube the dist. shaft as Tom E suggested?

John
Click to expand...

I asked this same question on another forum in order to get an answer from Larry Brumfield. His answer was to lower the coolant level and to retorque and it would not affect the head gasket I was asking about taking the nut off to install the clamp.
 
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I took the cable clamp off today. Made a washer, about .100 thick with a 7/16" hole and 7/8" od. Put it under the head nut and torqued it down.

All my work where I have been messing with that head bolt has been with no water in it. Not wanting to take any chances.
 
You can file the hole hex and slide it on and off the nut. I must not be doing the maintenance you are doing because I have not had to remove the distributor since the head was replace many years ago.
 
Head was torqued down without the clamp on it, leaving the stud sticking up a bit. Then I modified the clamp by cutting off one of the legs that go under the nut. Slipped the modified clamp on the stud over the nut, then secured it with a thin jamb nut. It won't pass any judging standards, but then that's the least of my worries.

No pictures yet as my truck is in cold storage till our kitchen gets done and I get my garage back.
 
Depending on how the cable is clamped, it is possible to pull the distributor out with the pop-out cable still in the clamp. I've done it with ours multiple times without any damage to the cable (or the paint on the cable).
 
John_Carter said:
Depending on how the cable is clamped, it is possible to pull the distributor out with the pop-out cable still in the clamp. I've done it with ours multiple times without any damage to the cable (or the paint on the cable).
Click to expand...

How? :confused:
Any picture of the clamp and cable?
 
No, Mitch. It is the large repop, thick and stiff, 3/4" dia cable. I am headed back to Bill's this morning. The aggravating click, click, click is still there after every engine external check we can think of. Today we pull the head and start looking inside. And folks, it is not a rod or main knock. update later. ken
 
John, I have done it as well. The repro armored cables are very stuff and won't allow it... But then nit all original Popoit armored are all crated alike as well. I have seen original wires short as well after insulation breaks and being stressed.
Just necessary to always be prudent and use common sense and due caution . I agree with Tom Endy almost all the time but nit sure I'm a fan if removing tr distributor every oil change. Use some anti seize when you install it or a little grease to keep the rust element down .

Larry Shepard
 
Yes it is an original popout cable but restored with new internal wire. When I put the head on I adjusted the cable in the clamp such that I'd be able remove the distributor if needed later. I don't recommend doing this if not needed, but I think it is a better option than loosening a head bolt if the distributor needs to come out.
 
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