glazed points - picture please

When u put the new igntion switch in insulate the terminals from the gastank.. its very common for those to touch and ground out...
 
"Cleaned the terminals and got to bare metal again where the ground strap bolts to the car. Added some dielectric grease as well."

I think I would use something that would conduct electricity in this area.

Bob
 
"Cleaned the terminals and got to bare metal again where the ground strap bolts to the car. Added some dielectric grease as well."

I think I would use something that would conduct electricity in this area.

Bob

Bob,

This was how it was explained to me concerning the use of dielectric grease:

"Dielectric grease allows for many typical mechanical electrical connections to 'penetrate through' the grease down to the base metal connection. The areas around the point connections are sealed off from atmosphere to prohibit corrosion or tarnishing that would otherwise eventually increase the contact resistance."

I had not done this previously on this car. I figured I would clean everything to bare metal and then apply the grease to seal the area from moisture/road debris, thus extending the life of the connection.
 
Bob,

This was how it was explained to me concerning the use of dielectric grease:

"Dielectric grease allows for many typical mechanical electrical connections to 'penetrate through' the grease down to the base metal connection. The areas around the point connections are sealed off from atmosphere to prohibit corrosion or tarnishing that would otherwise eventually increase the contact resistance."

I had not done this previously on this car. I figured I would clean everything to bare metal and then apply the grease to seal the area from moisture/road debris, thus extending the life of the connection.


Thats fine ..bare metal bolt together then put dielectric around it....
Even if you had dielectric on the bare metal its fine..
We use dielectric inside all kinds of pin connectors even with a seal pack connection..

My whole house generator i used dielectric On all the pin connections and put it over exposed ground connections...

I had an issue of the pins getting green from moisture until i did that

This is being over analyzed
 
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OK, I like to use KOPR-SHIELD in an area like this.

Bob
 

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Just a couple ideas for the suggestion box....

My truck was running fine until one day it just quit....I know your problem is intermittent but the problem I had was a loose stud/terminal on the ammeter....the wire was tight(double nutted) on the stud but the stud was loose in the ammeter case....

Also my 60's vintage aftermarket ignition switch will not work if the key is turned 90°..works fine at about 45° though..
 
Just a couple ideas for the suggestion box....

My truck was running fine until one day it just quit....I know your problem is intermittent but the problem I had was a loose stud/terminal on the ammeter....the wire was tight(double nutted) on the stud but the stud was loose in the ammeter case....

Also my 60's vintage aftermarket ignition switch will not work if the key is turned 90°..works fine at about 45° though..

An emergency fix for the loose ammeter connection is to use a jumper wire across the two terminal box wingnuts. This takes the two short wires and ammeter out of the circuit by bypassing them.
 
Brian, re " I included pictures in my previous post ", your points are burned. I can't tell if they are pitted or not. But they need to be replaced. Check around for a better set of points. Echlin or Bluestreak from NAPA work well for me.
 
Just to give an upate -

I found that the red wire connecting to thw ignition switch was loose. Also find that the distributor was not making a good ground to the block. After correcting these 2 issues and cleaning up all of the electrical connections from the battery to the distributor, the car is running fine. I took it on an 8 mile test loop and no issues with the car.

Seemed a couple of different electrical issues led to the problems.

Thanks,

Brian
 
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