Engine SLUDGE

DougVieyra

Well-known member
While there seems to be some interest currently in the Model A Engine and the things that make it 'go', I would like to mention that there is in the recent MAFCA 'Restorer' magazine, an excellent article by Howard Eckstein -SLUDGE. It is well worth the read as it thoroughly explains in depth, in easy to read language and photos, the role (and importance) of oil in the continued good health of the Model A engine (any engine for that matter). The bottom line 'take away' from the article is that engine SLUDGE is the product of the owner's neglect to regularly attend to the engine's oil 'circulation'. Much like our own body's veins becoming clogged with cholesterol.

This great article is yet another reason why it is helpful for the Model A owner to belong to one or both of the National Model A Clubs - MARC or MAFCA - Model A Restorers Club; Model A Ford Club of America.
 
I have a handfull of "clubs" that require yearly renewals. MARC notified me yesterday that I had lapsed. When age catches up with you, things like that are easy to get by you. I promptly sent in my renewal.

I always like the articles that are published in the magazines. Probably the only reason I belong in the first place.
 
Sludge is also caused from a cold running engine and short running cycles...
A t-stat aides in heating it up better
 
Yes, Mitch, Howard Eckstein thoroughly covers that in his excellent article; he makes a firm point that sludge is caused from a cold running engine and short running cycles, as well as a number of others causes.
 
Excellent topic for discussion, Douglas!! .... I am just now changing the oil in both my "A" and Early V8, a '33 pickup.

After a 40 minute jaunt along two lane country roads (cruising along at 35-40 mph) this past weekend, I returned to my garage and promptly removed the oil plug and drained the pan. Repeated with the V8. I then check and lube all grease fittings, check brake rods, tire pressure, headlights, stoplight, horn motor and all other obvious lubricated joints as well as tightening any loose nuts before securing the drain plug and filling with 5 quarts of new oil. This weekend coming up if we have any sun I'll give them both a fresh waxing, polish the chrome, top off the radiator and clean the windshield streak free!

500 miles for every oil change sometimes comes around too often, but this time it's been just about 11 months since the last oil change. I guess my 2017 resolution is drive them more!
 
Excellent topic for discussion, Douglas!! .... I am just now changing the oil in both my "A" and Early V8, a '33 pickup.

After a 40 minute jaunt along two lane country roads (cruising along at 35-40 mph) this past weekend, I returned to my garage and promptly removed the oil plug and drained the pan. Repeated with the V8. I then check and lube all grease fittings, check brake rods, tire pressure, headlights, stoplight, horn motor and all other obvious lubricated joints as well as tightening any loose nuts before securing the drain plug and filling with 5 quarts of new oil. This weekend coming up if we have any sun I'll give them both a fresh waxing, polish the chrome, top off the radiator and clean the windshield streak free!

500 miles for every oil change sometimes comes around too often, but this time it's been just about 11 months since the last oil change. I guess my 2017 resolution is drive them more!
dont forget the distributor and upper distributor hole and throttle bracket oil cups and starter and generator bushings get oil :p
 
I usually put in 4 quarts, drive it for 10 miles or so, then check the fill line of the dip stick, and add the balance needed - usually about 1/4 to 1/2 quart.
 
I agree, every time I change my oil it never takes more than 4 1/2 quarts. I put 4 and then check it after a run.
 
What is considered Full when the dipstick just has an F stamped in it? To the bottom of the F? Middle of the F? Covering the F? Letting it find its happy place like the radiator fullness?
 
It's good to have the discussion here because there are people that are members of one club or the other or are not members of ether club. :)
 
What is considered Full when the dipstick just has an F stamped in it? To the bottom of the F? Middle of the F? Covering the F? Letting it find its happy place like the radiator fullness?

The ONLY reason I pointed that out so other Newbs don't do what I did when I bought my car.

One of the first things I did was change the oil, so I would know when it was changed and what was in it. So following the info I had, I drained the oil and replaced it with 5 qts. Trip around the block and oil in leaking out of the rear of the engine.

After a little research I found I should have only put in 4 qts. 5 qts is TOTAL capacity with a dry (new) engine. I drained ~1 qt and the leak stopped.

My experience, take it or leave it... :p:p
 
The ONLY reason I pointed that out so other Newbs don't do what I did when I bought my car.

One of the first things I did was change the oil, so I would know when it was changed and what was in it. So following the info I had, I drained the oil and replaced it with 5 qts. Trip around the block and oil in leaking out of the rear of the engine.

After a little research I found I should have only put in 4 qts. 5 qts is TOTAL capacity with a dry (new) engine. I drained ~1 qt and the leak stopped.

My experience, take it or leave it... :p:p

Yea mines slightly over full (1/4" over F) due to squirting clean oil down the cyl every few months when it was in storage. After a good run it maybe drips a nickle sized spot on the floor... Like any engine I assume its OK as long as its between F and L.

And why is it called SLUDGE? Should be called engine FUDGE...
 
Believe it or not I have never had an issue with oil spilling or leaking out of any portions of the engine or breather tube after an oil change. A couple of drips here and there but no more than that. I will use 4-1/2 qrts next time and see if that really makes a difference! Thanks Barners!!!!
 
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