Getting ready to swap engines

Jacksonlll said:
I did a swap two yrs ago. Here is a short video showing a little of it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tajdM-Nq0gk&list=PLhL36Rc6o5MI5gsZreCrIa0r_fFQcz4R0&index=7
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Thanks, I've done a few engines swaps in my day, but it's been 35 years since I've done a Model A. Surprisingly I seemed to have remembered most of the procedure. I did help Dick S. install his a while ago, that probably ignited a few memory cells. I took a quick look at the clutch/PP that came out of the car, looks like it has the disk spring retainers like everyone recommends, wonder who had the great idea to change them... can't leave good enough alone. The pressure-plate is marked "rebuilt", does it appear to be an original Ford part? I plan on putting a re-pro PP in it, if this one is original, maybe I'll have it rebuilt? I'll have the ****** out in 2-3 months, I could re-install it then.
 

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Trudging along on my engine swap. Cleaning all the goober out of the bell housing.:) Original engine has been transferred to the motor stand, clutch and flywheel removed. I never done any safety wiring before but I think I can do better than what was in there...:eek:
 

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I've watched most of Jack's videos. I like the "down home" approach he uses. Here's a ink to his YouTube channel if anyone wants to check it out.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtEPzNVuzc2A6xZByMr2A9g

Here is a picture of the front motor mount springs that were in the car. It had float-a-motor rear mounts, so maybe this was part of the FAM package? Has rubber inserted up in the springs as well, the rubber is now more like petrified wood.:D
 

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BTW, the pilot bearing in the car was a bushing, the is a ball bearing. I imagine that the originals were bushings?
 
Here's one example. Lots more, just Google it.
 

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I spent a goodly amount of time today trying to square up the flywheel cover today. There were no shims in it when I took it apart. I bought a set of shims months ago when I first read that improper alignment of the flywheel housing could contribute to vibrations. Anyway, I should have bought more than one set.:rolleyes: The shims from Bratton's measured .0085" thick. Since I didn't want to wait a week or more for more shims I cut some from the only thing I could find handy... a diet Coke can. :D
I ended up with a .024 shim pack to get under the .006 recommended in Les' book. Seems excessive, maybe time to start looking for another flywheel cover?
 

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I check the flywheel cover with the front of the engine pointed down, while it's mounted in my engine stand. This way you know the crank is always forward so you don't have to worry about the crankshaft clearance entering into the picture and giving a false reading.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I check the flywheel cover with the front of the engine pointed down, while it's mounted in my engine stand. This way you know the crank is always forward so you don't have to worry about the crankshaft clearance entering into the picture and giving a false reading.
Click to expand...

I had remembered reading that before. My engine cart does slant the engine back 3 degrees (carb level) and it has extremely tight tolerance on the thrust bearing so I figured it wasn't worth all the trouble to put it back on the stand which currently has the other engine on it.:)
 
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